clutch wobble

I have just noticed that my clutch basket and possibly the end of the shaft wobble noticeably when idling. I have a belt drive and large cooling holes in the primary so its quite easy to observe, it still seemed to be doing it when I rev the engine. I think its always been like this, I don't have any problems changing gear or with the working of the clutch. Should I be worried about this? Is it a prelude to a major breakdown?

Not suprised to hear the basket has a "wobble" it floats on a shaft which could be worn, but given revs and load it will settle ...

You could pull the cover and have a feel of the basket as you would if checking front wheel bearings 12-6 oclock 3-9 oclock etc.... The main shaft might also have a little play and if it all moves 1-2mm either way i wouldnt stress about it. But if you got 6mm in basket or shaft, go take your wife out for dinner and be really really nice for a few days till the parts and bank statement comes in....

Thats what i think, and would do tho the experts out there will now offer alternative opinions....

That's right, that's the purpose of a forum - to offer alternative opinions. If you travel minimal distances, say 10 miles there and back, once a week, slowly, and don't care about sprocket/pulley mis-alignment, accelerated belt/chain wear and expect mechanical failure as part of classic bike ownership, then the above advise will be fine.

If you plan on actually using the bike then you should have no movement on the shaft except possibly a little end float - no side to side movement, if you've got 1-2mm as suggested then the sleeve gear bearing/bushes are completely worn out and require replacement and possibly the mainshaft too. Clutch basket does not float on the shaft, it is secured by the clutch hub which is connected to the basket via the clutch bearing. Clutch hub is splined to the mainshaft and secured by the mainshaft nut torqued to 70lbft and loctited. Clutch basket/pulley/chainwheel wobble could be caused by worn bearing, inner bearing race spinning on clutch hub or clutch hub loose on mainshaft due to clutch mainshaft nut coming loose due to insufficient torque or a combination of all three. The only free play you should feel will be the bearing internal clearance i.e next to nothing.

I ran into this on my stock setup and removed the old bearing/installed a new one. I then found that there was MORE play with the new bearing! I THEN found that there are different bearing tolerance classes and then new AN bearing I had purchased apparently had a lower rating tolerance-wise than the oem bearing. I THEN ordered a bearing from a supplier that had the highest tolerance rating which essentially eliminated the play.

I would think that a belt drive would be much harder on the clutch bearing since there is no lubricant present though perhaps the belt drive kits are supplied with a sealed bearing...I don't know.

Al-otment said:

secured by the mainshaft nut torqued to 70lbft and loctited.

Click to expand...

Make that 40 lbs/ft and I'll agree with you

MikeG said:

Al-otment said:

secured by the mainshaft nut torqued to 70lbft and loctited.

Click to expand...

Make that 40 lbs/ft and I'll agree with you

Click to expand...

I've tried 40lbft and the nut comes loose - by the way you've got the units for torque incorrect.

Al-otment said:

MikeG said:

Al-otment said:

secured by the mainshaft nut torqued to 70lbft and loctited.

Click to expand...

Make that 40 lbs/ft and I'll agree with you

Click to expand...

I've tried 40lbft and the nut comes loose - by the way you've got the units for torque incorrect.

Click to expand...

Hi Al, how do you keep the circlip from deforming? Are you using the MK III starter circlip? I've read some guys are, getting better results.

Edward, I'm amazed ya kept the belt on this long w/o it walking off to be ground up compacted into front of primary so my respects on your install skill and luck so far. Exam close the front pulley plates and edges of the belt which at some threshold of edge wear lets whole belt unravel to collect at front into every space available behind pulley & inside alternator. 3 things may allow clutch wobble, those already listed outside the tranny but also what I found > worn out sleeve gear bushes and possibly a bent main shaft, usually from one prior over tight-heated primary chain or belt event. I've had clutch and crank nuts come loose on a number of occasions yet didn't prevent riding home 50 miles with some noise or damage to belt and pulley teeth but left me pensive to compromise below 70 lb trq as that's about threshold of the clutch locating clip inverting breaking failing. There is a slightly heavier duty clip available. I nip up ~55 ftlb with blue loctite and very hardened washer under it so nil crush down to loose clamp force so nut works off again. If belt comes off away from shop a spare belt and tools can get ya back home to deal with the causes. I vote must bite the Commando bullet again and take it down to fix what ya find, best all at once than piece meal as my learning curve was.

I use a new circlip from AN on each assembly. The recess in the spacer must go someway to prevent deformation. I've had one shear on assembly but it had been used at least once before.