CLUTCH SLIP

Hi MCmarvelous
As I said before if I only did one thing, it would be the clutch pushrod seal...RGM do one pretty cheap....it works on mine...Norvil do a slightly better one...got that on my triton. That works too. The plates do not like that thick g/box oil on them, they cant fling it off...

I get a bit of engine oil blowing through the crankshaft seal . I know this coz I run dry, so I can see it leaking through when I pull the cover off...nothing I can do until I strip the bottom end (hopefully not in the near future).

Stu

My memory is a little fuzzy on this but I'm pretty sure you can remove the seal without stripping the bottom end. You can drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal and thread in a self-tapping sheet metal screw. The seal can then be yanked out by grabbing the screw head with vise-grips.

Russ

batrider said:

My memory is a little fuzzy on this but I'm pretty sure you can remove the seal without stripping the bottom end. You can drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal and thread in a self-tapping sheet metal screw. The seal can then be yanked out by grabbing the screw head with vise-grips.

Russ

Click to expand...

That is exactly right. Problem is if you don't have some type of breather valve, you'll be back doing it again soon. Without the breather valve the crankcase is pressurized and will push oil past the crankshaft seal. I've had the experience of installing a proper breather valve with no change of the seal and the leaks stop.

It's like painting the Forth Bridge this bike sometimes!

I will cure the chaincase leak tonight, give it a few runs and then measure' the oil that comes out to see what is happening. If it is more than the 7 oz I'll definately know I have a problem and then go about solving it.
It is all about the wet sumping really, from what i have read on this forum. Cure that and these other bits mainly go. I have a mark 3 which was meant to be better?
Is it the oil pump that needs sorting?