clutch slip

soturi · Sep 18, 2016

trying to torque the rotor nut. rear wheel isn't completely installed, so couldn't get enough out of the brake to keep the wheel from spinning.

this did the trick:

so now the wheel doesn't move, but i still can't torque the rotor nut.

transmission is in first gear, rear wheel isn't moving, but torquing the rotor nut rotates the primary chain.

so... diaphragm spring too weak? clutch plates shot? is there something i might be doing wrong that would prevent the clutch from engaging properly?

thanks for reading

concours · Sep 18, 2016

I use a chunk of aluminum on the crankshaft primary sprocket teeth, wedged against the outer cover pylon. CAREFULLY..... :!: :idea: :shock: to keep the load down low, near the inner primary so as not to come close to bending it.

Triton Thrasher · Sep 18, 2016

Top gear is better, but that doesn't address your problem.

Oily plates? Badly adjusted cable and/or pushrod?

L.A.B. · Sep 18, 2016

soturi said:
so... diaphragm spring too weak? clutch plates shot? is there something i might be doing wrong that would prevent the clutch from engaging properly?

The torque required to fully tighten the rotor nut is enough to make the standard clutch slip when held with the brake (use top gear), so as concours said, it is often necessary to also 'lock' clutch drum to prevent it turning.

However, the correct way to do the job would be to use the clutch locking tool.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-de ... l-commando

drp · Sep 18, 2016

I took one of an old clutch plate and a metal one, bolted them together and attached a handle. It works fine. Also did the same thing for my Triumph, BSA and Atlas

CanukNortonNut · Sep 18, 2016

Also use a new 06-7894 star washer and a dab of locktite 243
That helps preventing the rotor nut from backing off and ruining the woodruff key slot on the rotor and the shaft of the crankshaft. I say this from experience. :x
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

Triton Thrasher · Sep 19, 2016

L.A.B. said:
The torque required to fully tighten the rotor nut is enough to make the standard clutch slip

I looked up the torque spec for the nut (70 lb.ft) and the engine's own torque (50 lb.ft) and you're not wrong. Tightening the nut could make a serviceable clutch slip.

Surprised me though.

L.A.B. · Sep 19, 2016

Triton Thrasher said:
L.A.B. said:

The torque required to fully tighten the rotor nut is enough to make the standard clutch slip

Click to expand...

I looked up the torque spec for the nut (70 lb.ft)

It's 80 lb.ft. in the pre-Mk3 manual

soturi · Sep 19, 2016

L.A.B. said:
Triton Thrasher said:

L.A.B. said:

The torque required to fully tighten the rotor nut is enough to make the standard clutch slip

Click to expand...

I looked up the torque spec for the nut (70 lb.ft)

Click to expand...

It's 80 lb.ft. in the pre-Mk3 manual

i got "70-80 lb.ft." in my manual so... everybody wins!

more than happy to learn i (probably) don't need to replace anything. for once.

Thomas - thanks for the heads up on the new star washer; i've been eating up my nut trying to tighten it and planned on replacing it once i figured this out, so I'll definitely take your advice and order that at the same time.

i don't have spare anything to make a clutch tool, and have already screwed up enough doing unorthodox fixes, so i'll probably splurge and get one of those sweet purpose-built tools.

thanks for everybody's help!

SteveBorland · Sep 20, 2016

What about using an impact wrench (rattle gun) on the nut?

/Steve.

clutch slip

soturi

concours

Triton Thrasher

L.A.B.

Moderator

drp

CanukNortonNut

Triton Thrasher

L.A.B.

Moderator

soturi

SteveBorland

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