Clutch Plates worn out?

So main seal is fine, clutch rod seal in place, 5 oz ATF, stock bronze plates and steels. Clutch plates foul way to quick, start slipping and bike has about 60K miles.

Did you measure the plates/stack height?

http://atlanticgreen.com/clutchpak.htm

HI Bob, we can't tell from you post if they need replacement.

Have you had the plates out and cleaned all the gunk between all the splines and from the plates themselves very recently?

The entire basket may just need a good cleaning, usually the case.

And while you are in there, how are the hub (inner) splines, are they all notched up? If so, new hub and plates time.

1up3down said:

HI Bob, we can't tell from you post if they need replacement.

Have you had the plates out and cleaned all the gunk between all the splines and from the plates themselves very recently?

The entire basket may just need a good cleaning, usually the case.

And while you are in there, how are the hub (inner) splines, are they all notched up? If so, new hub and plates time.

Click to expand...

Centers are a little notched, but no problem with clutch engagement or sticking. Just seems they get fouled way to quick. I clean them with lacquer thinner and rough them up a little with sand paper before installing. The clutch stack height seems fine too! There're in the dish washer now so don't tell the wife :roll:

Ok, all seems well enough,

Only conclusion is that the friction plates are not sticking good to the steel driven plates and thus clutch slip.

So, for about $90 from CNW you can get a new stack of driven and friction plates, specify 750 or 850 to suit.

Just what I would do, in fact I just did this a week ago, ordered a new stack from them.

Try less oil, you just need enough to dip the chain.

Cash

Does the oil level seem to rise over time? I let mine wet sump & sit long enough for oil to seep past the main seal & foul the plates & now they have started to slip a bit on hard acceleration. I'm going to give a good cleaning & hope all will be well. Maybe yours are getting fouled the same way? when you drain the primary to clean them is the oil level kind of high??

On the very rarest of ocassions, the end of the main shaft has been very generously chamfered and the oring of the seal may slip out of it's holder since it will not be held in place by the shaft. You should be able to tell if it is gear oil. If that is the case, a shim/washer made from beer can aluminum against the end of the shaft will suffice to provide added retention of the oring.
If that is not it, then there is too much primary oil.
Personally, I would not waste my money on plates. If the clutch feels fine after a cleaning then it should stay that way for 10-20K miles if set up properly. If not, you're doing something wrong.

gtsun said:

Does the oil level seem to rise over time? I let mine wet sump & sit long enough for oil to seep past the main seal & foul the plates & now they have started to slip a bit on hard acceleration. I'm going to give a good cleaning & hope all will be well. Maybe yours are getting fouled the same way? when you drain the primary to clean them is the oil level kind of high??

Click to expand...

The main seal is OK and ATF (5oz) was clean, but plates has some residue. I'm thinking time for a new stack because the amount of residue I feel wasn't sufficient to cause slippage!

like dyno dave posted look at where the push rod comes out of the seal, if you see ANY OIL it will need the shim behind the O ring also the gear oil is hard to remove from the bronze plates. it will take a lot of cleaning to get ALL the oil out of them. also IF they were thinner from wear the clutch lever will get harder to pull. you have not added a steel to make it a softer pull have you?? this will give less clamping pressure and clutch slippage if the stack up is to high.

[/quote]
The main seal is OK and ATF (5oz) was clean, but plates has some residue. I'm thinking time for a new stack because the amount of residue I feel wasn't sufficient to cause slippage![/quote]