clutch locking tools

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maylar

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Andover lists two clutch locking tools... what's the difference between them?

clutch locking tools


clutch locking tools
 
Dunno. I have the 13.1724 one, it's a serious but of kit. Bought after I broke one of the clutch plate with a 6" bit of strip spot welded on type.

I'm not going to break this one without some serious body building!
 
The 13.1724 engine lock tool seems to be thicker steel (10mm handle and 6mm plate) as my clutch locking plate is 3.0mm.

It also includes the "Strong Abutment".
 
I've had the 06-1015 tool for about 3 yrs and wish I'd had it much earlier. It is heavy duty and you can rest the handle against the rear iso stud nut to free up a hand.

Edit: Just measured. Mine is the thinner one. No p/n or markings. I thought it was plenty heavy duty so the other one must be a monster.
 
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13.1724 is heavier gauge with a longer handle.
In addition, it comes with a stop (labelled as 2 solid abutment) that screws into the z-plate.
 
I have a version of the tool that fits into the clutch basket, it makes tightening the right side mainshaft nut and the clutch hub nut a breeze and makes the 2 operations separate; I have also used it to tighten the rotor nut. I do have a spare clutch hub/basket I use for these operations so that the new assembly doesn't get any spurious stress.

I have always wondered if using the primary chain or belt as a part of tightening process is inducing stretch or undo stress? I realize that the engine's peak torque is close to the rotor nut's torque, but see the engine's torque being delivered while the chain/belt is in motion which, I assume, is distributing the the stress; if something in the engine/transmission/final drive provides instant lock up all bets are off, so are you.

I move on with the thought that the tool was developed by the manufacturer and their engineers wouldn't be selling the tool if it caused damage. My thoughts, lately, have become considerably more skeptical based on what I read (and sift) on this forum and my own experience.

I also have two different tools that lock the crank, so if I was to put the engine in it's proper place sans top end I could directly torque the rotor/sprocket and the oil pump drive gear without involving the primary drive belt/chain.

Any thoughts about this (to me) conundrum?

Best
 
The factory method uses the primary chain, clutch, gearbox, drive chain, all the way back to the rear brake. This tool takes most of that out of the loop.
 
The factory method uses the primary chain, clutch, gearbox, drive chain, all the way back to the rear brake. This tool takes most of that out of the loop.

I am familiar with the factory method where the locking action is the responsibility of the rear brake and the benefit of the double toothed basket/hub locking tool. The factory method also stresses the transmission at the point between the layshaft and mainshaft bearing bores where they are prone to crack; not to say that a slam shift into 2nd gear from 1st isn't more shocking.

Are primary chains manufactured that produce the tight/loose points or are they induced by assembly or operational parameters? Belts seem, to me, to have less proclivity for tight/loose points.

Just wondering about tolerable stress, maybe being a bit too philosophical. There are expert members of this forum that have the knowledge to paint the stress picture.

Zen tendencies make me ask this question, also part of my dissertation...

Best
 
All I know is that I can't get to 70 ft lbs on the crankshaft rotor nut without my clutch slipping. This tool will alleviate that.
 
Rear brake functions, and leg muscles, vary.

The AN kit, with abutment, is worth it’s weight in gold !!

Only IMHO of course.
 
When I was in my 20's it was no big deal to stomp on the rear brake while yanking on a 1/2 inch torque wrench and watching the scale. Can't do that no mo.
Gonna get me an Xmas present.
 
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