Too much play and you’ll get wobble. But I’m fighting the same issue as yours. I need to find the posts you found that said it’s not an issue.Sorry, I guess I should have searched for previous posts as it looks like this has been covered before. So am I to assume that the hub being a sliding fit in the inner bearing race Is OK and no bearing retainer is needed? The original hub was a slight interference fit and I pressed it out.
Maybe the OEM bearing is a C0.
With the circlip there is still play in and out.There is little need for the bearing to be more than a precise push fit having the circlip , any wobble will mainly be related to the bearing clearance being single row but even then it should be minimal.
Maybe the OEM bearing is a C0.
I though the tolerance of the bearing had more to do with the balls or rollers than the outer dimensions.
My brother talked to Steve Maney about this when he first installed this kit many years ago. The solution was to get a new hub that fit the bearing. Steve said that any bearing goop would not last.Sounds good to me.
Any wobble will come from the bearing, clerance or otherwise or the centre/center hub spline fit.
The bearing is only along for the ride unless the clutch lever is pulled in and am reminded I need to get a couple in C2.
The original Hoffmann's I removed the other week were very smooth running still but near no axial play so wondered if they were a tighter clearance (wondered wrong it seems)
I have baskets where the centre could be pushed out by hand, others that needed pressing.
A little Loctite 290 after the bearing is in place would not hurt but probably not needed unless there was easy push side play on new parts.
The basket would probably sit in the same running position to the front sprocket anyway (chain or belt) with movement at the hub to bearing.
My brother talked to Steve Maney about this when he first installed this kit many years ago. The solution was to get a new hub that fit the bearing. Steve said that any bearing goop would not last.
Given that this bearing is quite old it wouldn’t kill me to get a new one. While I’m sure it’s serviceable I’d like a snugger fit.
I don’t know if @cNw has run into this before.
Send it back.
Your new bearing should press cold into the new clutch body without any play.
If I understand your post concern. Actually I don't much understand it. You simply press the center in or tap it in carefully and lightly. It should fit.
5 Nortons later I've never had an issue with the clutch hub bearing fit. Never had one loose or wear out. The clutch hub center is another story . They get notched. Especially the very early commando models or the much later sintered bronze plate ones. The bearing itself is a non issue.
Don't you just love it when someone assumes where you live is just like where they live!That is way to loose a fit, lets hope all it needs is a new bearing.
Can't you just ride/drive to the bearing shop ?
12:07 am
Friday, 5 February 2021 (GMT-8)
Time in Salem, OR, USA
I ordered a new sealed bearing. That should work.
I can only assume you just got back from the beach.
I have spent most of the last year needing a signed form to go to more than 20km away, and occasionally just to get out of the door, the beach is 100km!I can only assume you just got back from the beach.
I don't know what that guys problem is but am sure he has sand in his vagina was my point but now gone.Honestly TW... considering the horrible situation most of Europe is in right now, that jus’ ain’t funny. You’re starting to gloat. Please stop.
To be honest FE, I didn't really understand the full meaning here?Honestly TW... considering the horrible situation most of Europe is in right now, that jus’ ain’t funny. You’re starting to gloat. Please stop.
To be honest, one of my problems this afternoon is just you! You clearly know enough about motorcycles, but you do make assumptions about circumstances that affect other people that you have no knowledge of.I don't know what that guys problem is but am sure he has sand in his vagina was my point.