Clutch Center removal

Sureflex are lighter weight, non-metallic (ZERO notching possible) and TOUGH. Best plates I've ever had in 20+ Commandos (which may or may not mean anything)

Barnett would be my 2nd choice.
Tough? How have other plates failed?



But thicker, unable to do the later extra plate stack, hence less torque capacity.
 
Tough? How have other plates failed?

But thicker, unable to do the later extra plate stack, hence less torque capacity.
Not plate failure, but damage to hub from steel base plates (nexus of this thread).

All I know is, my Sureflex clutches make clutch-popping wheelies too easy. They hook up better than anything else (and believe me, I've tried them all)

There is no need for an extra plate if you can produce the proper STACK HEIGHT.
 
I done 40+ years and over 130k+ miles on my stock Norton clutch before replacing the clutch centre, I am still using the bronze and steel plates that came from the factor, my clutch is very light one finger pull if I want, they worked well for me after I started to use ATM oil in the primary back in the early 80s, I have never had GB oil come into my primary, and I use to do burn outs and wheelies in my younger days without any clutch problems, except when using motor oil in the primary (clutch slipping) in the early days of owning my 850 Norton from new.
To me the bronze plates work fine, but when I ran with a belt drive and running no oil in the primary the plates did grab quick but got use to that, but I am now running back with a chain drive, the belts was good for a few years then had problems, the chain has more give in the find adjustments and to me found no difference in running a belt or chain.
My Norton was a everyday rider till 2013 and has over 160k+ miles on it and my stock clutch works fine so a new clutch centre replacement was just part of maintenance and wear and tear on a 50+ year old motorcycle same as primary chains or belts whichever way you go.

Ashley
 
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