Clutch adjustment questions

Of late, I am experiencing problems downshifting into first gear about 30% of the time. I have the post Tranny Issues. My gearbox is up to the correct level with Redline MTL and my final and primary chains are the correct tension. While it was suggested in the Tranny Issues post that I might have oil contamination on the clutch plates and should clean them, a local Norton guy told me that I might try a half a turn on the clutch rod adjuster screw before I started taking things apart. At this stage, I have a couple of questions. While this bike ran fine for the year or so that I have had it, the clutch cable at the lever was at the end of its adjustment. The adjusting nut was at the end of the threaded portion. In other words, there was no threaded portion to go into the lever. Before doing any adjusting of the clutch screw, if the clutch lever was held on, the kickstart would kick free. After I adjusted the clutch screw (the one with the lock nut through the primary case hole) according to the manual, the kickstart would not kick free with the clutch lever pulled on so I adjusted the screw in until it did kick free. Does this all mean that my clutches are worn past adjustment or should I turn the screw in further (say a half a turn at at time) to see if it remedies my problem of not wanting to go into first gear from second gear.

For the last 40 years I have adjusted the clutch screw one-half turn from where it touches the pushrod. I learned a long time ago that if I use the factory manuals one full turn there is not sufficient adjustment at the handlebar.

YMMV

Ron, when screwing the adjusting screw in, does it come to an abrupt stop at the rod (to then be backed off) or does it just meet resistance. I am starting from scratch and I'm not sure of what I am supposed to feel as far as resistance to the adjusting screw. Thanks.

As you turn the screw in you can feel it meet resistance and see the spring center begin to move ever so slightly. From that point I will back it off 1/2 turn and tighten the locknut while holding the screw. This will allow you to adjust an eighth inch or so free play at the lever and still have plenty of travel to fully free the clutch.

You do not want to turn the screw in hard then back it out. That could be why the factory book recommends one full turn. When I do that, I have problems getting full release.

You should always have some free travel at the lever, also.