Checking stator/rotor before installation

Any methods or techniques to confirm components are in proper working order before installation, any and all input appreciated.

Lineslinger said:

Any methods or techniques to confirm components are in proper working order before installation, any and all input appreciated.

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Two quick and dirty tests, will the rotor hang off of a screwdriver(good) or does it fall(bad), and for the stator, electrical continuity between the 2 leads and no continuity between any of the leads and the metal frame of the stator.

Yeah, white paper/strong light behind rotor to see gap collision area, to use serious big hammer vintage realistic attitude to SMACH bend the mounting posts to get a practical gap. The laminate magnetic concentrating plates are so tough to open up with ordinary file/drills the wham bam thankya mam violence its lessor of expended effort. Putting layer of tape to kind of measure set gap is only good to tell ya about need to whambam towards thoughtless riding. Realize the factory mounts are a fixed alignment, so only brutal owner can force better gap centering and then fudge rotor centering by washer
/spacers as only way to get adequate clearance. If your Norton is almost perfect for good enough gap on 1st assemble just nip up and ride. If not - nothing else but custom tough machining bigger holes or cuss words at hobot before obtaining big enough persuader applied though wood buffer on robust mounted satator.

Take a large screwdriver and pick up the rotor using the magnetism. If it falls off you need a new rotor. Don't let it land on your foot. Magnetism weakens with use , or improper bleed-off storage to another steel item. Early rotors were known to explode , so buy newer , do not fit an old type even if magnets still good.

Rotors can fly apart, and should be tested.

Clamp the rotor in between two large washers in a vice, then wind a rubber strap wrench (or rubber inside a oil filter wrench) around the body and see if it rotates at all in either/both directions

Tried this trick which worked well. Too well. The rotor broke loose with not much torque. Less than 15-20 ft lbs. by my guess and having just done the clutch nut to 40 lbs.

Thanks much for the input fellas.

Once ya get a decent rotor and for sure know which side to use as TDC for ign timing, MARK it physically permanently to be seen through cover hole. May save frustration next time its off or ign reset. I also mark rotor at 30' as starting point to fudge best advance from quicker. It should takes some extra effort beyond gravity to pull off screwdriver flat face.