Checking and resetting ISO on a Mk3

I read the workshop manual about checking front iso on a Mk3 and wonder why you would push the engine to the side (right side) you are checking?

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING FRONT MOUNTING CLEARANCE
Slide the right side gaiter back to give access to the adjuster and plastic washer.

Push or lever the engine to the right until all slack in the Isolastic mounting has been taken up.
Holding the engine unit in this position, use feeler gauges to measure the clearance between the plastic washer and bright plated adjuster collar. (See Fig. F20).

If the distance exceeds 0·010 in (-25 mm) the unit should be readjusted.

Following the procedure defined in Technical Data: Slack of the main mounting central bolt, and slide spring clips clear of holes in adjuster.

Insert suitable size tommy bar (spoke or similar) into a convenient hole in the adjusting collar and screw up until there is no clearance.

Back-off adjuster, moving 1! holes only (to unscrew), replace spring clip and gaiter.

Tighten main bolt to 30 Ibs./ft. (4-15 Kg/m) torque.

The clearance will now be approximately 0.006 in (0.152 mm) as recommended.

Is this text a well known mistake?
Are there more than one clip?

The rear ISO check on the left, by pushing wheel to the left, seems unclear to me as well.

SECTION F14
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING REAR MOUNTING CLEARANCE

Slide the left side gaiter back to give access to the face ring and plastic washer.

Push the rear wheel to the left firmly and measure the clearance between the plastic washer and bright plated adjusting collar.

If the clearance exceeds 0·010 in (·25 mm) the unit should be readjusted.

Following the procedure defined in Technical Data: Slack off the main mounting central bolt, and slide spring clip clear of holes in adjuster.

Insert suitable size tommy bar (spoke or similar) into a convenient hole in the adjusting collar and screw up until there is no clearance.

Back-off adjuster, moving 1½ holes only (to unscrew), replace spring clips and gaiter.

Tighten main bolt to 30 Ibs./ft. (4·15 Kg/m) torque.

The clearance will now be approximatley 0·006 in (0·152 mm) as recommended

You push to one side to get all the clearance to the side you are using the feeler gauge on, otherwise the measurement will be wrong as you will miss the clearance on the other side which could be all, some or none of the total clearance, by pushing it becomes none.

p400 said:

I read the workshop manual about checking front iso on a Mk3 and wonder why you would push the engine to the side (right side) you are checking?



Is this text a well known mistake?

Click to expand...

Agreed, it makes no sense and should be the opposite. The information appears to have been carried over from the pre-Mk3 manual where it would be correct for non-vernier Isos.

p400 said:

Are there more than one clip?

Click to expand...

No.

I don't recommend relying on the instructions to back-off the adjuster by 1 1/2 holes either, as the clearance can reduce when the bolt or rear stud is tightened so insert a feeler gauge and check it at stages during the tightening process until you have the required clearance with the bolt/stud fully tightened.

Yup ! when done correctly makes for a nice ride with better performance too .... not sure who wrote those instructions but clarification always helps .... over the years I thought it a difference in English on each side of Atlantic ....

What is the technique and tool(s) used to push the 1975 Norton Mk3 engine to one side please.
Is this a one man job?
Or one to push and one to measure?

p400 said:

What is the technique and tool(s) used to push the 1975 Norton Mk3 engine to one side please.
Is this a one man job?
Or one to push and one to measure?

Click to expand...

I just slacken the through bolt/stud insert the feeler gauge and tighten the adjuster against the feeler gauge.