Central Oil Tank.Tough Enough?

Status
Not open for further replies.
you're good to go with the breather, that's the top shelf application.

In regards to the coil I use, there's nothing special about dyna brand coils. Any dual lead coil will work. Most of them come in 3 ohm or 5 ohm resistance. 3 ohm seems to be the choice for boyer electronic ignitions. Depending on which EI you chose, you should see what resistance they recommend for optimum spark.

I use this coil. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WCAAAMXQb29R3ze6/s-l300.jpg

In reference to the clutch stack height, I did buy a pair of metal plates in thinner thicknesses, so I could add a plate, and micro adjust the height of the stack by swapping a thicker one for a thinner one. This way I could adjust the tension to be as light as possible without slipping. I beleive dynodave's website has excellent instructions on just how that works and how to do it...
I actually went for the Pazon system.
 
A belt primary drive would provide a number of benefits, a couple of which have been touched on previously.

With no oil on the plates, the clutch stack can be adjusted to give a feather light clutch without slippage.

You can opt for a higher (numerically lower) primary ratio to change the overall gearing without the need to go to a 21 tooth sprocket. This avoids over stressing the poor old mainshaft.

The whole assembly is much lighter than the chain drive one, thereby reducing stress on the poor old mainshaft.

Kickstart effort is reduced.

No oil in primary = no leaks & no need to check/top up.
Thanks.Was considering belt drive.Now, its a definate!
 
My bike self-drains the oil tank into the engine which has a drain plug.
 
I remove the screen filter at the bottom, but yeah, it's a mess.
 
I remove the screen filter at the bottom, but yeah, it's a mess.

Another quick way is to remove the bolt on the oil pipe junction. That point is low down on the crankcases and easy to put a drain pan under.
The junction paper gasket can possibly be re-used, or a replacement can easily be made.
 
Ok guys tank is refurbed.Tigged on some webbing on bracket, after flushing.Probably overkill, but its 10 minutes work.The breather on front of tank leaks mist as others have stated.Thinking of brazing some copper tube, into hole then running a hose
to atmosphere?
 

Attachments

  • Central Oil Tank.Tough Enough?
    oil tank 002.jpg
    63.8 KB · Views: 202
I plugged the hole in the front of the tank and soldered a spigot into the tank filler neck with a pipe to a small plastic collection bottle in the 'tool carrier' in the LHS side panel. All I collect is some condensation.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top