TksRather than take them apart, simply swap sides. I don't want to start the big discussion for the umpteenth time, but to me the turn signal on the right is weird. With it on the left, it works exactly like every car I've ever driven.
TksRather than take them apart, simply swap sides. I don't want to start the big discussion for the umpteenth time, but to me the turn signal on the right is weird. With it on the left, it works exactly like every car I've ever driven.
They are swapped on all my Triumphs and Nortons and Norton originally had the turn signal on the left but changed it per Service Release N3/3 by simply swapping sides. One has 5 wires (the one with the dip switch), one has 6 (the one with the turn signal). If you just change the lever, you are certainly using the wrong colors for the turn signals and you must have added a wire to make it work. With the turn signal on the left, up is right turn, down is left - just like a car (at least in the US).I think I tried just swapping the cases left/right, but they don't quite work right that way....it was something with the way the grey covered cable has to pass into the casing that didn't sit right if flipped. Also by changing the switches within each case, I could make the toggles work the way I wanted (up for right turn, down for left), the horn button also on the left side, lower position, kill switch left/upper position.
Rather than take them apart, simply swap sides. I don't want to start the big discussion for the umpteenth time, but to me the turn signal on the right is weird. With it on the left, it works exactly like every car I've ever driven.
Been a while since I did it. But I think we're on the same concept. I did reposition some buttons to new locations and even made the "unused" button to be the new horn button on lower left side. I didn't like the kill to be lower left side as I might have hit it when going for horn....as horn is on lower left of my other modern bike.They are swapped on all my Triumphs and Nortons and Norton originally had the turn signal on the left but changed it per Service Release N3/3 by simply swapping sides. One has 5 wires (the one with the dip switch), one has 6 (the one with the turn signal). If you just change the lever, you are certainly using the wrong colors for the turn signals and you must have added a wire to make it work. With the turn signal on the left, up is right turn, down is left - just like a car (at least in the US).
What the ball end used for, sorry just had to askI have two sawed off Allen wrenches with the flats at different angles, a stubby ball-end Allen, and a long Allen with a ball-end. With those four, it becomes relatively easy. The first three get things started and the last I put through the wiring hole to unscrew the Allen once loose if the air cleaner is not installed. If the air cleaner is installed, I leave it in place and use the first three only - I find it easier to remove/replace the carbs than to remove/install the air cleaner.
Presumably to give a bit more wiggle room/angle when trying to the key into the socket head bolts. The two inside ones have very little clearance sitting between the two intake manifolds. This is why I use the micro ratchet with a hex bit....barely fits but allows a little ratchet action to loosen bolts. Note you cannot fully unthread them with te ratchet in place b/c as they back out, all the free space is taken up. Have to do the last half of unthreading by fingers only.What the ball end used for, sorry just had to ask
The stubby one is much easier to insert and the long one can enter and work at an angle.What the ball end used for, sorry just had to ask
I find that using a long key and a small 5.5mm spanner works best for me.The stubby one is much easier to insert and the long one can enter and work at an angle.
The 5/16 head steady allen screws , which are BSF and unfortunately too often mixed up with the manifold screws...what a cross threaded mess!What the ball end used for, sorry just had to ask
should be: 7/32 drive are 5/16 BSW allen screws, 1/4 drive is SAE, and the sign of a hack (IMO) and a supplier that should be avoided.Note that the original 5/16" Allen/cap head socket/key size was 7/32".
Replacement screws are normally UNC (regardless of what is ordered) which are 1/4" socket/key size.
5/16 drive are BSW allen screws,
1/4 drive is SAE
Sorry, not enough coffee yet? me too!If by "drive" you mean the socket/key size then it is 7/32". The screw size is5/32"5/16" x 18 BSW.
A bit strange here. I always use the thin profile carb split washers on the manifold and thin plain washers on the carbs. The thin split lock washers allow much quicker removal than a full size/thickness one.yet only flat washers are offered. Was there any time in Commando manufacture when locks were used
This set resolves that. The short end is very short and the long end is longer than usual. Both ends are ball. The short end can crack them loose and if the air cleaner is off the long end can reach through the wiring hole.Ball-end keys are often too long.