Carb removal

Time Warp

.......back to the 70's.
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The best way is to get someone else to remove them while you sit on the couch watching.

Failing that, with the ham can filter, remove the filter and front plate along with the rubber bellows.
That will make removal easy if not a little tight for access at the centre nuts.

The plastic airbox is the same but the bellows are more finicky with the fixed airbox itself.

Welcome. :)
 

Ron L

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The ham can airbox is such a pain to remove and replace, I don't bother. I just use a shortened allen key and a lot of patience. Remove the fuel line banjos and allen screws from the manifolds (spacers). Then remove the tops with the cables attached. Replacing the rubber bellows to the carb and air box is a worse job than removing the carbs.
 

Time Warp

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I read on the Internets that the plastic airbox was a pain also, it wasn't.
Dare I say it, I can think of no job that is either a pain or hard, some a little fiddly maybe but a walk in the park compared to some modern bikes that take an hour to get close to that location.

If you are removing the carburettors I would consider removing the inlet manifolds while there, lap the front faces, remove the studs, lap the rears and countersink the thread holes before refitting the studs.
Maybe even swap out the lock washers for cupped washers.
 
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Tornado

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I find a micro ratchet with an Allen hex fitting just fits on the center manifold socket head bolts, permitting a wee bit of ratchet action, thus making their R&R much less trouble than with as stubby key.

Also, running without the hamcan metal screen and with a K&N filter makes pulling the front plate much easier. The filter can squash a bit and rebound as it has a metal mesh on outside.
 

MichaelB

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Remove seat
Remove tank
Remove slides
If you have Ham can, leave in place, if not remove cleaner.
Disconnect rubber tube connecting manifolds
Leave carbs attached to manifold, remove allen screws at manifold to head on left side.
Interior allen screw will require to shorten the allen wrench, grind it file it, whatever.
May have to remove intake cover nut to clear allen wrench.
Lift out carb/manifold together.
Repeat on right side.
Done......Grab a beer and Revel in your success!!
 
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tks for the response...74 850 in believe a roadster was a basket case with clutch basket removed.. also the seat,, tank and air filter in boxes...reasons it was parked in 1983..engine turns freely and valves open and close ok...all parts seem to be here...was wondering about switch gears and believe choke lever goes on left side..still not sure what the switches do...if I ask dumb guestions...I bel
 

Saber

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My '74 850.
Switches and button as shown in the prev diagram. 20201001_191246.jpg
 

marshg246

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Best way to remove carbs on a 74 cammando 850, believe a roadster
I have two sawed off Allen wrenches with the flats at different angles, a stubby ball-end Allen, and a long Allen with a ball-end. With those four, it becomes relatively easy. The first three get things started and the last I put through the wiring hole to unscrew the Allen once loose if the air cleaner is not installed. If the air cleaner is installed, I leave it in place and use the first three only - I find it easier to remove/replace the carbs than to remove/install the air cleaner.
 

marshg246

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Sacrilege warning - don't keep reading - sacrilege warning!

Buy a Triumph :)

I mostly rebuild/work on Nortons. However, I am finishing a Bonneville and just installed the carbs - that 1/2 mile between them and the pancake air cleaners sure were a pleasure!
 
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I read on the Internets that the plastic airbox was a pain also, it wasn't.
Dare I say it, I can think of no job that is either a pain or hard, some a little fiddly maybe but a walk in the park compared to some modern bikes that take an hour to get close to that location.

If you are removing the carburettors I would consider removing the inlet manifolds while there, lap the front faces, remove the studs, lap the rears and countersink the thread holes before refitting the studs.
Maybe even swap out the lock washers for cupped washers.
Tks , really didn't come with . Just air filer attached to rear of carbs
 
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The main tip is to undo the left carb first and do that by removing the centremost allen screw before slackening any other manifold screws. Once loosened you can get finger tips top and bottom onto the screw head and rotate it out. If you undo the outer screw the carb weight is not supported when you try to remove the inner screw.
 

Tornado

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On my '74 MKII 850, it came to me (from unknown number of previous owners) with turn signal switch on the right hand side. Found this to be very awkward trying to on/off turn signals while also managing throttle and/or brake, all with one hand (my non-dominant one at that). You can open up the casings and change out the switch & button arrangements to suit either left or right end of the bars. Just be very cautious as the toggle lever switches have a ball bearing on little spring...will go flying as you disassemble. While in there, always highly recommended to clean up the switch contacts, ESP the emerg shut off button b/c that one must make good electrical contact to keep the ign system happy.
 

marshg246

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On my '74 MKII 850, it came to me (from unknown number of previous owners) with turn signal switch on the right hand side. Found this to be very awkward trying to on/off turn signals while also managing throttle and/or brake, all with one hand (my non-dominant one at that). You can open up the casings and change out the switch & button arrangements to suit either left or right end of the bars. Just be very cautious as the toggle lever switches have a ball bearing on little spring...will go flying as you disassemble. While in there, always highly recommended to clean up the switch contacts, ESP the emerg shut off button b/c that one must make good electrical contact to keep the ign system happy.
Rather than take them apart, simply swap sides. I don't want to start the big discussion for the umpteenth time, but to me the turn signal on the right is weird. With it on the left, it works exactly like every car I've ever driven.
 

Tornado

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Rather than take them apart, simply swap sides. I don't want to start the big discussion for the umpteenth time, but to me the turn signal on the right is weird. With it on the left, it works exactly like every car I've ever driven.
I think I tried just swapping the cases left/right, but they don't quite work right that way....it was something with the way the grey covered cable has to pass into the casing that didn't sit right if flipped. Also by changing the switches within each case, I could make the toggles work the way I wanted (up for right turn, down for left), the horn button also on the left side, lower position, kill switch left/upper position.
 
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