Carb adjusting, idle circuit

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kommando said:
Your link does not work for me, last year I bought part 622/172 Tickler conversion set direct from Burlen, . and that included the roll pin, spring and new extended tickler
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I’ve edited the link. Hopefully it works now. It on eBay’s US site, item #382214173759. Just a pic of the items like LAB has in his post.
 
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kommando said:
Your link does not work for me, last year I bought part 622/172 Tickler conversion set direct from Burlen, . and that included the roll pin, spring and new extended tickler
Click to expand...

My mistake again. I thought the vent hole was for another small roll pin. Should have put more thought to it. Watched fuel squirt out that hole on my Triumph 650 Tiger during prime many times.

L.A.B. said:
There isn't a roll pin to hold the body, only the long roll pin shown in the link (and below). What you see below is the tickler assembly. The small hole in the tube is a vent:
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Thanks LAB. What secures the tube to the body? Is it a press fit or? Have one that is fit tight, doesn’t move, and another that is loose & spins around while the engine is running. I’ve lifted that tube and can see a definite taper/collar where it’s been wearing. Wondering if the body is worn too and a new kit would still be a sloppy fit. Pic isn’t focused where it needs to be but you get the idea. This is the loose one.

Carb adjusting, idle circuit
 
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L.A.B. said:
That could be a tad optimistic going by the gap in your photo?
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True. Maybe a new one will fit snug lower in the hole (where it’s not worn as bad) and a little JB around the top will keep it stable. For $10, I’ll give that a shot. Will point it out to the owner and have him get a new body down the road if needed.
 
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Just an update.
Replaced the tickler.
Fitment of the new barrel wasn’t loose but it wasn’t a press fit either. Applied a little JB to secure. BTW - Cleaned the JB off the lip after taking the pic below. Time will tell.

Also found an issue with the bowl gasket.
New gasket installed a month ago. Supplied from a U.K. o-ring/gasket kit.

Currently dealing with a rich low to mid range.

Thought I may of had a bad seal on the float bowl needle and seat.
Pulled carb to inspect and found the edge of the gaskets were rubbing on both floats. Not allowing total free movement of the float(s).
Trimmed about an 1/8" off the gasket to allow free movement.
Hooked up to petcock and filled both bowls. Flow stopped and observed appx 2mm float measurement per Bushman.

Ran much better on the test run but still a bit rich (sooty plug reading).
Valve clearance previously checked/set. Ignition timing (AB11, 28deg at 200 rpm) checked/set.

Things I'm going to check today.
Per Bushman - needle jet opening, #36 drill. Will probably replace these and possibly the needles too. Shopping for a kit.

Carb adjusting, idle circuit
 
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Needle jets wear pretty easily. Whenever I rebuild a carb, I always replace them. Needles should be okay unless a lot of miles.
 
Yay! Went from a serious cough, sputter, run - between 2000 to 4500 or so RPM to a smooth pull all the way through.
Finally closing in on this one!

Recap on the carbs -
Cleaned pilot jets, (son had some guitar string, used that - .014 as I recall)
Replaced one tickler (had become loose in it's housing)
Modified float bowl gasket - Needed to slightly trim the inner edge of gasket, it was rubbing the float. Check your gasket. Will be obvious if it's too close.
Replace float needle valve - Amal OEM brass to Amal OEM aluminum. Made sense to me after reading about the lighter weight aluminum needle possibly helping with an issue I was having. Figured it couldn't hurt. Wasn't 100% sure they sealing.
Replace needle jets - Definitely made cured the mid RPM issue. 6500 miles on bike.
 
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