Can you help me with the orientation of piston rings that came with no instructions

Yes, I have considered that. When cold, worn cylinders may well be out of round. Pistons are new here. Once heated the cylinders become more amenable to the roundness of the pistons as they change shape in a minor but measurable way. Less oval shaped. 30 years of building VW motors. This summer I will most likely disassemble and have them bored to .020.
I did not mean to hijack this thread. I just become passionate about these bikes I work on. I am thankful for the information I can find here from any and all of you. Can't hardly wait to ride tomorrow.
 
robertv said:
I asked this same question here last summer when I installed new hepolite pistons and rings. I am not an expert. A kind member gave a photo of the original instructions sheet. Probably still on the site here. I bought 0.10 oversize hepolite rings.
The new specs I believe are 0.20 ring gap. Original was 0.12. I chose 0.16 and used my ring gap tool. Spaced them at thirds. I may have just gotten lucky, but was careful. I have smoke free starts and running. I don't use any oil at all. My cylinders are stock. I just ran a bead hone. Compression was 95psi for the 1st 100 miles. At 120 psi now after 500 miles. So fun to ride.
So far so good.
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The best way to remember orientation without marks is to relate it to sex.
i:e if it's in, it's up, meaning if the ring has an internal champfer it's goes up, and if it's out it's down, meaning an external step goes down these champfers assist in scraping oil on the down stroke because the step or champfer, induces torsional twist.
 
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