Cam Chain Tensioner Question

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swooshdave said:
I wonder if that's a MkIII thing. No rubber on the earlier tensioners, I believe.
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I would use the mk3 tensioner on all rebuilds as a minimum, if you can't afford the comnoz chain tensioner. And the andychain cam chain. Top shelf for the latter two.
Cheers
Tom

PS dammit I hate tapping on my cell phone .
 
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I've heard about Jim's cam tensioner but have not been able to find a post or image of the rig itself, perhaps someone who has it would be kind enough to provide some details.

I did install the tensioner plate with the rubber pad and a new andover chain on my 750 build. When I was setting it up I noticed that to get the correct tension with the new plate I had to set it to its lowest point, I assume that as the rubber "beds in" I will have to tweak the adjustment more frequently than normal. I have about 1000Km on the engine so far so I guess it's about time to go in for a look.

edit: found the detailed post related to Jim's tensioner!
 
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Not the link perhaps, but some pics for your amusement...

Cam Chain Tensioner Question
Cam Chain Tensioner Question
 
I’m going to leave it for now. My assumption, which was never validated, is that the only reason to have it face up is to give you more clearance when you have a loose chain. There is no other mechanical reason for it to be flipped. You have to pull the cover to replace the chain or even adjust it so I’ll address it next time. I might even put one of those fancy rubber ones in.
 
acadian said:
Thanks, I contacted Jim about the tensioner and unfortunately he hasn't produced them in some time, we can only hope he'll find the time to get another batch made

Looks like you have the drain hole relocated, I'm assuming that's not a problem with tensioner being splash fed?
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Yes, seemed to work fine. Actually I suspected what you say once, so fitted the stock job to test and saw no change, so I’d say that demonstrates it’s functionality.

It is a tight fit though, some checking and minor fettling is advised prior to fitting.
 
swooshdave said:
What makes you think there won’t be any splashing going on inside there?
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Well, I didn't know if the lowered oil level in the timing chest (from the relocated drain hole) would impede priming of the tensioner. So I asked. Eddie confirmed he had similar concerns but that it seems to be fine.
 
acadian said:
Well, I didn't know if the lowered oil level in the timing chest (from the relocated drain hole) would impede priming of the tensioner. So I asked. Eddie confirmed he had similar concerns but that it seems to be fine.
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You mean if I had a hydraulic one? Since I don’t no worries.
 
Ron L said:
Interesting side note I just discovered. The slipper/adjuster for the two chain engine and one chain engines are different. I never noticed this before. The orientation of the slot is different. Luckily, I didn't mix up the timing chest components of the P11's and '68 Commando with the later ones.
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New to this thread, but topic is very old to me. http://atlanticgreen.com/engcases.htm
The position of the two tensioner studs are closer to the crankshaft/ idler gear on up to 20M3 twin chain engines and is the reason for the slot orientation. The 20M3S single chain has a double wide tensioner pad but the holes are on the front position and is that way until the end of NHT.
The 200000 series the pad is only single wide and now in the forward position/ farther from the idler gear.
 
acadian said:
Well, I didn't know if the lowered oil level in the timing chest (from the relocated drain hole) would impede priming of the tensioner. So I asked. Eddie confirmed he had similar concerns but that it seems to be fine.
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I did the same as fast Ed . Not a problem for priming the tensioner .
 
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