Bushman's engine repair thread

If I ever have a political thought I'll be sure and go there...
But seriously a minor hand size joke? Maybe not a great one , but C'mon!

Glen
 
I, for one, feel informed now. I didn’t know there was a place on this forum for political bickering. In any event I didn’t find the comment offensive at all, Glen.
 
Damn. Just deleted a good 5 paragraph rant. Done enough for one lifetime. Just hope my bike runs good for another season.
 
MxMartin said:
I asked them to adjust my clutch as it was disengaging too close to the bars for comfort. Clutch all sorted said Clem, except it wasn't, the techie had adjusted my clutch lever instead. I now had to shift my hand on the bars for my fingers to reach the lever which was 1/2inch further out lol, that wasn't what I was after. 5 miles later I had had enough and adjusted lever back :)

On a cable system you can adjust the lever for comfort/reach and then adjust cable length so the clutch bites/slips at a chosen point of lever travel - I don't know how you accomplish this on a hydraulic clutch which is why I asked service to do it, but my request got interpreted differently by the techie. Maybe you can't adjust this, maybe my clutch slave needs bleeding, but I need to keep clutch lever pulled tight against bars to prevent it dragging.... and I don't have particularly short fingers!
Click to expand...
Try to take off the clutch lever and adjust the pin by screwing it further out. This way clutch should disengage earlier.
Bushman's engine repair thread
BUT BE CAREFUL not to crack the tiny allen, I think it is lock-tighted...
Bushman's engine repair thread
 
Raphi said:
Try to take off the clutch lever and adjust the pin by screwing it further out. This way clutch should disengage earlier.
BUT BE CAREFUL not to crack the tiny allen, I think it is lock-tighted...
Click to expand...
Great idea, thanks! I have the billet levers fitted but they should have the same/similar pin for the Brembo master cyl.
 
Can't see how the set screw changes the clutch engagement based on Picts. What am I'm missing?
 
The set screws is what locks the pin in place, which is screwed in. Remove the set screw and you can partially unscrew the pin, thus lengthening it, thus changing the bite point in relationship to lever position.

At least, that’s how I see it...
 
Fast Eddie said:
The set screws is what locks the pin in place, which is screwed in. Remove the set screw and you can partially unscrew the pin, thus lengthening it, thus changing the bite point in relationship to lever position.

At least, that’s how I see it...
Click to expand...
Yep exactly. I just fitted new aftermarket levers to my Thrux and had to do a similar adjustment on the front brake. As soon as I read Raphi's suggestion I had a Eureka moment. I am sure there must be another adjuster down on the slave, another case of rtfm maybe.
 
I replaced my clutch lever and it did require a little bit of fine tuning or your bike may not start. A simple task. Especially using 107's diagrams.
 
MxMartin said:
Yep exactly. I just fitted new aftermarket levers to my Thrux and had to do a similar adjustment on the front brake. As soon as I read Raphi's suggestion I had a Eureka moment. I am sure there must be another adjuster down on the slave, another case of rtfm maybe.
Click to expand...

NO , Nothing on the slave . The integrated reservoir clutch and brake are similar but different. This adjustment will also change your lever reach . If you're already at the lowest setting (short fingers) , you will have to live with it .
 
TonyA said:
NO , Nothing on the slave . The integrated reservoir clutch and brake are similar but different. This adjustment will also change your lever reach . If you're already at the lowest setting (short fingers) , you will have to live with it .
Click to expand...
Tony the internal part of the clutch lever (all of the black part, same as on brake lever) is fixed and can't lever in or out, so if the pin that acts on the master piston is screwed out then the effect is to push the piston into the master, taking up the slack as it were, and has no effect on lever position. This is the lever off the anniversary models and I have screwed my pin out 1/2 turn and will see what effect this has on clutch engagement when I start her up next, if need be I will turn out further until I get it just right. Note the pin is held in position by the small grub screw as Raphi suggested.

You can also make similar adjustments on the brake lever so that the brakes 'bite' closer or further from the bars without affecting your preset reach.

Bushman's engine repair thread
 
MxMartin said:
Tony the internal part of the clutch lever (all of the black part, same as on brake lever) is fixed and can't lever in or out...
Click to expand...
That was a bit of an over-simplified statement.... if you turn the piston pin out then the clutch lever reach isn't affected BUT if you turn the piston pin in past the point where the master piston spring has no effect on it then you will get slack on the clutch lever and it will rattle about.
 
Ok , I think I understand . You are pushing the master piston further in before you apply any clutch lever force. So when you pull the lever fully in the clutch plates should be more disengaged with no dragging etc..
 
Just a quick note of caution particularly when adjusting the master cylinder position on the brakes. If the piston is shifted too far it will cover the bleed hole that allows the brake fluid to pass into the reservoir. This can result in pressure building up in the brake circuit as the fluid heats up in use. This can lock the brakes on ( I know I did it on a dirt bike not long ago). When adjusting ensure that fluid can still pass into the reservoir. This can be done by bleeding some fluid as if bleeding the brakes, if the level drops in the reservoir you are ok.
Hope this helps.
 
spannerhands said:
Just a quick note of caution particularly when adjusting the master cylinder position on the brakes. If the piston is shifted too far it will cover the bleed hole that allows the brake fluid to pass into the reservoir. This can result in pressure building up in the brake circuit as the fluid heats up in use. This can lock the brakes on ( I know I did it on a dirt bike not long ago). When adjusting ensure that fluid can still pass into the reservoir. This can be done by bleeding some fluid as if bleeding the brakes, if the level drops in the reservoir you are ok.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Good advice. If you have a keen eye you can sometimes see the turbulance in the reservoir as fluid is expelled from the bleed hole just prior to the piston covering it as you pull the lever.
 
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