Busbar

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A busbar is an electrical distribution bar that helps divide circuits into separate fused ones . Helps to locate shorts in one specific system instead of our one fuse covers all in the stock Norton.
Any tips ? , I want to go this way .
 
A busbar is an electrical distribution bar that helps divide circuits into separate fused ones . Helps to locate shorts in one specific system instead of our one fuse covers all in the stock Norton.
Any tips ? , I want to go this way .
I use a Fuzeblocks FZ-1. You can set each of the 6 circuits up as constant hot or switched by the ignition by tapping a trigger wire from the device into the nearest switched wire, such as a tail light. This is set up for negative ground, but seems like it could be made to work for positive ground as well.

 
I've used an Eastern Beaver PC-8 on my ES2, similar to the Fuzeblock but without the built in relay.
Or you could go the whole hog and install a Motogadget Mo.Unit - best fitted with a custom harness, and only works negative earth. There is a thread on that installation under the Restorations heading if interested, they were still called M.Unit at that point.
 
I've used an Eastern Beaver PC-8 on my ES2, similar to the Fuzeblock but without the built in relay.
Or you could go the whole hog and install a Motogadget Mo.Unit - best fitted with a custom harness, and only works negative earth. There is a thread on that installation under the Restorations heading if interested, they were still called M.Unit at that point.
PC-8 I will be looking into for the + ground. Trips /reset digital would be nice instead of physical fuses.
 
Here's a fuseless one that you can program each circuit to be constant hot or switched and its amperage:


Here's another interesting gadget--fuseless and very compact, but no provision for constant hot circuits:

 
PDM 60 . I presume the electric starter circuit will exceed the draw of maximum 15 Amps on no.4 circuit ?
 
I use the Centech AP1

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Busbar

Protectis your wiring harness, insures that anyone malfunctioning circuit or short circuits doesn't shut you down, except, of course ,the ignition circuit. small, light and comes with a template for marking the the mounting holes' nor a paradigm shift over those presented and prices vary quite a bit.

This and others keep the battery terminals from looking like spider webs. I also run a 14 ga ground buss from the headlight to the tail light with stops at the engine and reg/rec.

Best.
 
I use the Centech AP1

View attachment 96480View attachment 96480

Protectis your wiring harness, insures that anyone malfunctioning circuit or short circuits doesn't shut you down, except, of course ,the ignition circuit. small, light and comes with a template for marking the the mounting holes' nor a paradigm shift over those presented and prices vary quite a bit.

This and others keep the battery terminals from looking like spider webs. I also run a 14 ga ground buss from the headlight to the tail light with stops at the engine and reg/rec.

Best.
I have used the Centech units on various bikes for a long time with no problems.Nice product.
Mike
 
I use the Centech AP1

View attachment 96480View attachment 96480

Protectis your wiring harness, insures that anyone malfunctioning circuit or short circuits doesn't shut you down, except, of course ,the ignition circuit. small, light and comes with a template for marking the the mounting holes' nor a paradigm shift over those presented and prices vary quite a bit.

This and others keep the battery terminals from looking like spider webs. I also run a 14 ga ground buss from the headlight to the tail light with stops at the engine and reg/rec.

Best.
Are the lugs on this burly enough to run the starter wire into the 20A fuse?
 
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