Building the Motor - Pushrod Question

Good morning!

I got my engine parts back from the machine shop. We didn't have him fully assemble the motor, as we want to do as much as possible ourselves. We got up to installing the cylinder, just have to torque things down on that, then it's time to install the pushrods and the cylinder head. I've read through the forums about some of the trick for installing the rods, but I do have a quick question. Do the pistons need to be in a certain location (i.e. TDC) when installing the rods and head? Any other tips? I appreciate all the help!!

Naw crank/piston position is non issue installing head. With head on bench fiddle the pushrods up into head fully, intake rod first then exhaust rod, which is designed to hang/foul on rocker to test your will power puzzle solving, then trap em up in head via zip ties or rag stuffing [which just gets in my way] then slip head on barrel and lower head lighty on cylinder then fiddle the pushrods into lower lifters then their tops in rockers. Rubber bands strapped over head help hold seated rocker on pushrods while fiddling the others. Once assured rods all seated then start the head center bolt and gradually work the rest in and go around torque pattern but test engine turn over before final nip up as push rods very famous for one slipping off the lifter socket, usually revealed by Loud SNap Ringing sounding alarm to back up and try again. Then set lash and hope for best on fast start up keeping rpms over 2000 so cam/lifters oil separated. Re-torque on first cool down then again as much as you can next few cool downs, the skip and few dozen starts stops and check again as once oil weep starts its a bugger to seal just re-torquing. Crankcase/cradle bolts too. Rottella diesel oil is my break in oil of choice now and usually my regular oil too but does tend to use more than the 20-50 stuff.

It won't hurt to have a few small blocks of wood around to hold the head above the cylinders while messing around until the rods are seated and ready to put the head on and tighten. I only used the 4 bolts next to the plug holes to do the initial tightening until it was close, and keep turning the engine over as you tighten and look in the ports to see that nothing is binding, you can actually see the rod tops in the seats if you look hard enough. You can feel them too by rocking the rocker arms. You'll be able to tell if anything is out of sorts if you take it slow. No use to mess up at this point.

Dave
69S

Great advice guys, thanks!

I do turn the engine to top dead center so the valve lift is at it's least. The push rods are protruding at almost the same amount out of the block so you're not fighting one that is trying to open a valve whilst another one is not even close to indexing at the rocker and follower. I just use my fingers to hold the pushrods up into the head and against the appropriate rocker adjusters which I have backed off as much as possible to give a little more clearance. When you're where you want to be with the push rods down into the block, pull out your fingers, let the rods drop and plunk down the head all at once. Check that the rods are indexed in the correct rockers as you take up on the #1 head nut. Most likely the push rods will locate correctly in the followers but as a check can spin them with your fingers just as the slack is being taken up as you draw down the head. They should turn really smoothly, a draggy kind of scratchy action means the one in question is off to the side of the follower socket. Back up a bit and try again. There are a few different techniques, this is how I do it.

I always have the pistons up at T.D.C. so not to involve alot of spring pressures. You also mention "we" which is good as the one with thicker fingers/strength can support the head whilst the smaller fingered bloke can fiddle n' fit.

Just in case youve shaved the head , a way .Youd need to likewise reduce pushrod length .Particularly if youd removed a fair bit .Gasket thickness
is part of the equation . Drop of grease in cups & feed on one by one ( lift ) when close . with maybe one Int. open done last as defines gap untill
fitted, & you drop the head . Lifting them to stuck ( grease ) on rockers , the gaps at the bottom .Pretty hard to stuff up dropping into lifters;

Obvious from incorect clearance / ange / gap / rocker position .IF they havnt dropped in nicely .