Broken Stator Mount Stud

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danfr

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Hey guys, I'm hoping to get some ideas. The stud for my stator has broken off and I'm trying to figure out what is my best option for repair.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Broken Stator Mount Stud
 
I could weld it, machine for a stud through, but for the reasonable cost, I'd replace the IP.
 
Get the proper size EZ Out and drill, not too big, not too small. (Home Depot has these in sets.)

Center punch the exact center of the surface of the broken stud so the drill will start true.

With cutting oil preferred, drill as straight and as true as you can freehand to a fair depth, maybe 1/2".

Heat the boss with propane, tap in the EZ Out slightly into the drilled hole to set it.

Turn out the broken stud.

You may or may not need the heat, but it will more than likely come out easy with the heat.

Thrust me, this will work and is the standard procedure to removing broken flush studs.

That is what you need to do!
 
pete.v said:
Get the proper size EZ Out and drill, not too big, not too small. (Home Depot has these in sets.)

Center punch the exact center of the surface of the broken stud so the drill will start true.

With cutting oil preferred, drill as straight and as true as you can freehand to a fair depth, maybe 1/2".

Heat the boss with propane, tap in the EZ Out slightly into the drilled hole to set it.

Turn out the broken stud.

You may or may not need the heat, but it will more than likely come out easy with the heat.

Thrust me, this will work and is the standard procedure to removing broken flush studs.

That is what you need to do!
He meant to say "boss".
 
In the picture it looks like the post for the stud is broken off.
Determine how deep the hole for the stud is.
Pull the cover, then reattach the stator with the broken post and stud in place.
Use your favorite epoxies or Locktite type product to attach the post and hold it still while you drill, tap and countersink from the backside, trying not to drill through into the stud hole. A piece of scrap plate over the hole for the crankshaft and over the stator would allow you to use a C clamp to hold it or drill holes in the plates and use All-thread and nuts to hold it more ridged while you do your work.
OR as Councors said, replace the Inner Primary cover. About a month or so ago, I bought an inner and outer cover. $75 for the whole set up in nice shape.
If the repair lets loose just a bit, the stator could cock and rub the rotor damaging both and costing much more than a used cover. Just some thoughts
 
concours said:
pete.v said:
Get the proper size EZ Out and drill, not too big, not too small. (Home Depot has these in sets.)

Center punch the exact center of the surface of the broken stud so the drill will start true.

With cutting oil preferred, drill as straight and as true as you can freehand to a fair depth, maybe 1/2".

Heat the boss with propane, tap in the EZ Out slightly into the drilled hole to set it.

Turn out the broken stud.

You may or may not need the heat, but it will more than likely come out easy with the heat.

Thrust me, this will work and is the standard procedure to removing broken flush studs.

That is what you need to do!
He meant to say "boss".

Oh Crap, I see now. Never mind.......and you need a new inner.
 
I would be looking for a new inner primary, but... 2 of the 3 are still there so it should be possible to mount the stator to them and use that as a fixture for aligning the third while having it welded. I'd probably also drill and tap from the back side with a flat head bolt.
 
fiatfan said:
nortonspeed said:
danfr said:

When you fit (preferably) a new inner case fit also the 3 crankcase locking plates this time :!:

I saw that too, important!
Tommy

In regards to the three crankcase bolts, I have read a few people recommending, not using them to allow more threads to engage into the crankcase. I have also used locktite to hold those babies in there.


I'll try and repair the mount with a high temp epoxy. After it's cured, I'll check for alignment and any possible flexion. If there's any hesitation, I'll just replace the inner primary as the clearances are too tight for map-alignment, flexion.

Cheers
 
Hi mate get it welded back on by a professional or get a new inner case that's my advice cheers
 
danfr said:
fiatfan said:
nortonspeed said:
In regards to the three crankcase bolts, I have read a few people recommending, not using them to allow more threads to engage into the crankcase. I have also used locktite to hold those babies in there.


I'll try and repair the mount with a high temp epoxy. After it's cured, I'll check for alignment and any possible flexion. If there's any hesitation, I'll just replace the inner primary as the clearances are too tight for map-alignment, flexion.

Cheers
Please, (if only for the next owner) properly repair the bike. Epoxy, as well as no tab washers are both bad ideas to repair this. :idea: :mrgreen:
 
Just another hint, if you replace the 3 mounting bolts with studs and nuts, the inner case is much easier to put on, but it defeats the tabbed washers and also one of the studs and corresponding nut will have to be ground down unless a jam nut will fit. Red locktite on the crankcase and blue locktite on the nuts after mounting. The auto stores have the UNC/UNF studs, about an inch long as I remember. That also helps with leakage from the crank into the primary through the bolt holes, if that's an issue, I never had that issue.

Yeah, I'd buy a new/used inner.
 
Thanks for sharing the links fellas! I just noticed the replies now.

I convinced a friend of a friend to weld it back on for a case of beer. He's a full time welder so was able to do a proper job at his shop. before he tacked it, I mounted the stator, rotor and threw some shim stock between the two so the mount should be aligned up really well.

Fingers crossed
 
Well if someone was going to fix it, it would seem you have done it the right way.
Hope it works.
 
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