I'm going to dig in to the wiring harness today to try and trace the bad brake light connection. I've got no power to the bulb or to either brake switch, (bulb tests good for both filaments). Before I get started I was wondering if anyone knows of a connection somewhere that has a history of causing this problem under these circumstances.... nice to start at the most likely place and work backwards.
Brakelight not working
- Thread starter Robb2014
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Robb2014 said:
Yes, any and all of them! :wink:
The large rubber multi-connector beneath the tank usually needs replacing along with most of the other tube connectors which are often corroded and extremely brittle.
'White' (from Ign. Sw. T2) is the power supply to both switches, so it shouldn't be too difficult to check for Voltage from each brake light switch back to the ignition switch.
L.A.B. said:
Good point... I think I'll order a couple of those multi connectors today... one for under the tank, and I might as well replace the one in the taillight assembly also. I've noticed a lot of those black 4 way connectors are brittle as hell in the headlight... probably ought to change all those as well. I'm showing some residual voltage in the front brake switch... like a volt and a half or so, so good chance it's between that big multi and the front brake switch.
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Robb2014 said:
I don't think the 10 pak connector is sold any more. You can get some 2's and 3's and maybe a 5 pak. If they are brittle replace them. If the bullets are still good, stay with those connectors. If they need to be replaced you can use any quality connector type. You will save yourself a lot of grief by getting the electrical in the best shape it can be. I think Oldbritts sells them. Buy what you need and a few spares.
concours
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The large rubber multi-connector beneath the tank usually needs replacing along with most of the other tube connectors which are often corroded and extremely brittle.
Good point... I think I'll order a couple of those multi connectors today... one for under the tank, and I might as well replace the one in the taillight assembly also. I've noticed a lot of those black 4 way connectors are brittle as hell in the headlight... probably ought to change all those as well. I'm showing some residual voltage in the front brake switch... like a volt and a half or so, so good chance it's between that big multi and the front brake switch.[/quote]
I don't think the 10 pak connector is sold any more. You can get some 2's and 3's and maybe a 5 pak. If they are brittle replace them. If the bullets are still good, stay with those connectors. If they need to be replaced you can use any quality connector type. You will save yourself a lot of grief by getting the electrical in the best shape it can be. I think Oldbritts sells them. Buy what you need and a few spares.[/quote]
10 pin here: http://www.britishwiring.com/C-336-p/c336.htm
Just so we're clear (I wasn't initially) the METAL, FEMALE portion of the connecter is brittle, most times broken in half, just held in place by the RUBBER (which may or may not be brittle) and the connection is poor due to the lack if spring tension onto the male portion of the connector.
Good point... I think I'll order a couple of those multi connectors today... one for under the tank, and I might as well replace the one in the taillight assembly also. I've noticed a lot of those black 4 way connectors are brittle as hell in the headlight... probably ought to change all those as well. I'm showing some residual voltage in the front brake switch... like a volt and a half or so, so good chance it's between that big multi and the front brake switch.[/quote]
I don't think the 10 pak connector is sold any more. You can get some 2's and 3's and maybe a 5 pak. If they are brittle replace them. If the bullets are still good, stay with those connectors. If they need to be replaced you can use any quality connector type. You will save yourself a lot of grief by getting the electrical in the best shape it can be. I think Oldbritts sells them. Buy what you need and a few spares.[/quote]
10 pin here: http://www.britishwiring.com/C-336-p/c336.htm
Just so we're clear (I wasn't initially) the METAL, FEMALE portion of the connecter is brittle, most times broken in half, just held in place by the RUBBER (which may or may not be brittle) and the connection is poor due to the lack if spring tension onto the male portion of the connector.
Guido
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I've eliminated all my blocks and just ran bullet connectors. Those blocks take up too much space, are hard to tuck and are just a PITA IMO.
I also stagger the connectors so they don't bunch up on each other.
But if stock is what you want to go, go for it.
I also stagger the connectors so they don't bunch up on each other.
But if stock is what you want to go, go for it.
Guido said:
I did the same Guido. That rear multi connector was unneeded. But the PO really threw me for a loop on this one. He must have had the wire for the brake light break close to the bulb holder... so he tossed the brown wire and spliced in a red. What made it bad was the splice was hidden from sight and he finished the wire with a stock lucas bullet connector.... so everything looked factory back there. So I'm looking at this pile of shit thinking... why the hell is there two grounds going to this bulb and how does power get to the brake filament? After thinking about it a while i became suspicious that the one ground was bogus. So I bought a new two filament bulb holder from Autozone and took the pig tail out and replaced the one with the splice. And that did it for the wiring problems. Got hi and lo beam, kill switch works, tail light and brake ligbt are good and even the horn works. I was expecting to open a can of worms by reusing that 40 year old wiring harness... but it's actually in pretty good shape.... just had to replace a few brittle connectors and that brake light thing. I think I'll be riding this week.
DogT
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I used my original harness with a few small repairs to the connectors, but most of them are still there. Luckily the PO didn't mess with it, but I did find a few broken wires, don't know why and they were easy to find. Granted I don't have the multi-connector and it's a pretty simple harness with no turn signals and the wires are a bit brittle, but it all works and the wire colors are right. Maybe someone in the future will replace it.
Short story is, if it's in good shape and seems good, repair it. If it's boogged, replace it.
Dave
69S
Short story is, if it's in good shape and seems good, repair it. If it's boogged, replace it.
Dave
69S
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