Best Tubes for our Tires?

Hi all,
Just got a puncture in rear tire. Along with ordering in a new tire, this time I would really like to get your thoughts as to who makes the best tubes.

The last two sets of tubes have all slowly leaked air, losing 4-5 pounds in six days or so. This, after being so very careful with installation.

So, anyone make extra thick tubes, and/or tubes really built up around the air filler area?

I haven't had much luck with BikeMaster tubes. Kinda thin and light weight. I had one shred apart on me. Michelin and Metzler are twice the price but you get what you pay for.


Tim_S

I have been having good luck with Bridgestones. The come with the double nut so you can get the vavle tightened into the rim.


Russ

I had a bikemaster 3.00-19 that leaked out in about 3 weeks and I could find no leaks after removing it. I would stay with good brands if you can find them. I got a Marshall Racing tube and it seems OK.

Dave
69S

Bikemaster is probably made in some chicken coop. Usually the problem stems from dirt being in the mold mix. The tube then leaks, slowly, through the dirt.

Boy I guess I have been lucky with the bikemaster tubes I have been using for several years. Now watch, tomorrow I will have a flat. Jim

If ya ever had a tube tear apart from low tire air, I'd hightly suggest a bit of low air practice to be alert before all control inputs sudden do about opposite of all reflex expectations. Don't take much air out or time to learn all ya need to know on your terms. Especially bad right before you expect it all to stop and get off, SPLAT.

"The come with the double nut so you can get the vavle tightened into the rim."

I was always taught that on bicycles/Mcycles to NEVER use those nuts to lock the valve stem to the rim. The nuts just keep the valve stem from moving but they have no effect on actual movement of the tube itself and the tube can rip away from the locked valve stem. If you leave the nuts off, you can see the valve stem start to angle if there is any shifting of the tube. The angle change in the valve stem is an instant indicator that you need to reseat the tire/rim/tube and the visible angle change will occur long before any tearing around the stem. The nuts serve no useful purpose except to make it easier to fill the tube with air when it is totally flat. For that reason, you can always put the nut on when installing/filling the tube and then remove it afterward.

Long ago I used to tighten the valve stem nuts. I had a flat while running on the Interstate. Tore the stem from the tube. I was stranded for some six hours in Lyndon Station, WI. That was about five hours and fifty-nine more minutes than I would have liked. No more tightening valve stem nuts for me.

Consensus seems to NOT put the nuts on the valve stem.

So, IF the valve stem "angles" from 90 degrees once everything is nicely installed, then it should all be taken apart again and the tube rerouted back to 90 degrees?

Do all valve stems move in such a way that we can anticipated that movement and so initially set the tube and stem at the angle that rotation would cause it to come back to 90 degrees?

Michelin.

"So, IF the valve stem "angles" from 90 degrees once everything is nicely installed, then it should all be taken apart again and the tube rerouted back to 90 degrees?"

Yes

Well, of course it's the tire that moves, taking the tube with it so if you use tire rim locks (total PITA) or rim screws (better IMO though I use neither) it should never happen.