Best common Fixes

Status
Not open for further replies.
mike996 said:
"What we didn't know, we didn't worry about."

Absolutely right...we should all be more like we were then instead of worrying about stuff like "the best oil," etc.

"anyone building a monocoque in their shed?" The Commando's that lapped the IOM at 100MPH in production class were not highly modified and they certainly weren't monocoque frames.
Click to expand...

Not highly modified, but full race motors, engines raised in the frames, special exhausts, Norvil discs, smooth bored carbs, a full factory supporting them, spare motors, everyhting renewed before it needed to be......and lots of things that you don't know about :)
 
Flo said:
Best upgrade,
put nothing Japanese on it.
Then it will still look like a Norton & won't make me cry. :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

You can't see a Honda seal in the tach drive, and if you put one in there, you won't see any oil pouring out, either.
 
Honda doesn't make seals; they source them like everyone else does from companies that actually do make seals so I would never worry about that sort of thing. Mikuni's...now THAT''S a different story. :)
 
mike996 said:
Honda doesn't make seals; they source them like everyone else does from companies that actually do make seals so I would never worry about that sort of thing. Mikuni's...now THAT''S a different story. :)
Click to expand...
Hairsplitting. The seal is a Honda part with a Honda part# (forget what, check out the INOA Tech Digest) You can O-ring that pos until you're blue in the face and it'll still leak. Drill out the bottom of the flange, pop in the Honda-sourced seal and problem solved.
 
Gday all,
Honda seal for tach drive Part # 91207-222-000 $8.00 Australian ea

Also Suzuki crush exhaust flange seals (that are now stainless) Part #14181-01D00 $8.00 Australian ea aswell
Just picked these up friday.
Rgds Foxy
 
Corbin seat
Tri Spark ignition
CNW single coil conversion
Sparx 3 phase alternator with regulator
Morad 19 inch x 2.5 inch alloy rims with AM 26 roadriders
Sleeved master cylinder with stainless braided line
Fullauto Technologies head
34mm Mikuni carb
23 tooth gearbox sprocket
Seals on gearbox and tach drive
One way breather valve in breather line to oil tank
Gel battery
Early tail light and bracket (cosmetic only)
Led indicators (not just looks, less weight and strain on bracket)
Hayward belt primary drive
New clutch centre and Barnett plates
Switches swapped so that indicator switch is on left

All on a Mk 1 850 Roadster

Oops, nearly forgot. I'll have it back this week with new Maney aluminium barrels.
 
Foxy Thanks for the Honda part no. Mine is not leaking yet but it it wont hurt to have one for when it does. The tappet covers on the exhaust valves now thats another story. Have not done 1000 miles since the rebuild, 12 months back on the road last April. When I stop spending on other things, the house, Trispark is first on the list.
Ian
 
Norvil bronze exhaust nuts, worthy of a mention?

Oops Fullauto you also forgot to mention how big the new alley pots are!
Foxy
 
hobot said:
megaphone with flat plate
end baffle [supertap w/o the trap]
Put 1 3/4"-2" hole in the middle as exit nozzle.
Your call what to muffle inside with as long as
a straight though path left. Open is nutzo loud
with dulled low end,
slightly blocked exit empty insides > nice low
end response and low deep beats, hi rpm gives
blue jets projecting 6-8" with proper megaphone roar.
hobot
Click to expand...
Boy I wish I'd read this yesterday! I just swapped between these exact setups and took test rides and this is spot on with what I experienced. 8)
 
I think some of these lists are going beyond "common fixes" (thread title) and into 'race mods' and 'high end replacements'.

...I may have been guilty of one or two myself...
 
Just one more!

I'm told to run the oil level on the low side by many and I do, but I don't know why this would make the bike happier. After all it's a dry sump!
 
bmwbob said:
Just one more!

I'm told to run the oil level on the low side by many and I do, but I don't know why this would make the bike happier. After all it's a dry sump!
Click to expand...

You don't have to do this but you will both be happier if you do. Because if you don't the crankcase pressure forces the oil out of the tank where it eventually reaches it's happy level. For mine it's about half way. Just a hell of a lot less messy but filling to half way to begin with.
 
Lightweight pistons & longer rods.

Eliminates most of the need for loctite and other vibration/stress issues.

If more of these were out there you would see others adding them to the list because everyone appreciates a smoother running Norton.

Its not a matter of opinion - you can literally feel the difference in the seat of your pants.

http://users.gotsky.com/jimschmidt/nortonrods.html

Jim
 
One of my favorite obscure fixes is for a loose kickstart levers that wouldn't tighten up.
The fix is to check to see if the lever is clamping on itself before getting a grip on the splined shaft. If so, put one or two blades into a hacksaw and run it through the gap till there's sufficient room . If that doesn't do it then use a grinder or a rat tail file and remove one or two splines on each side next to the gap in the lever. It's counter-intuitive, but those splines could be binding the clamping force and interfering with the actual gripping force of the lever. One or two blades, one or two spines; starting low is probably best.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top