been taking a while to get used to my new '70 750
- Thread starter goo
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What carb you have.
Cold start if Mikuni VM full choke (enricher circuit) on.
Throttle full closed, kick through and keep throttle closed.
After a few seconds I roll on a ltittle throttle as I slowly take off choke.
Easiliest done with handlebar lever kit that lets me to control choke without touching carb.
Hold revs up around 1,800 for 30 seconds and then see if idle holds.
You mention hard clutch. If more than two fingers you probably need to adjust clutch stack height with OldBritts filler.
There are a number of threads on this site that describe it.
Easy to do and makes for a nice light pull. Venhill teflon lined cable also helps.
Cold start if Mikuni VM full choke (enricher circuit) on.
Throttle full closed, kick through and keep throttle closed.
After a few seconds I roll on a ltittle throttle as I slowly take off choke.
Easiliest done with handlebar lever kit that lets me to control choke without touching carb.
Hold revs up around 1,800 for 30 seconds and then see if idle holds.
You mention hard clutch. If more than two fingers you probably need to adjust clutch stack height with OldBritts filler.
There are a number of threads on this site that describe it.
Easy to do and makes for a nice light pull. Venhill teflon lined cable also helps.
Well for one, I rarely use the gearbox to for slowing down. Though it happen sort of naturally,as a general rule I don't practice it and try to be Mr. Nice nice to the EQ. Again as a GENERAL rule.
Of course the most gentle way is to down shift at the point during deceleration where there is neither pull nor push in the system, that is to say freewheeling together with the motor rpm and with the clutch in, downshifting at the speed somewhat lower yet near that of which you would shift up.
When on the centerstand, does the rear wheel turn with any appreciation when you put it in gear. There seems to be a little in every machine but the more free the clutch the less this drag will occur.
Without us having to research your situation and the status of what you have, please offer your equipment.
Belt or chain drive? Sintered of fiber plates? Clutch pack height? Condition of clutch center? Etc, etc, etc.
Of course the most gentle way is to down shift at the point during deceleration where there is neither pull nor push in the system, that is to say freewheeling together with the motor rpm and with the clutch in, downshifting at the speed somewhat lower yet near that of which you would shift up.
When on the centerstand, does the rear wheel turn with any appreciation when you put it in gear. There seems to be a little in every machine but the more free the clutch the less this drag will occur.
Without us having to research your situation and the status of what you have, please offer your equipment.
Belt or chain drive? Sintered of fiber plates? Clutch pack height? Condition of clutch center? Etc, etc, etc.
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Hehe, I'd of quit if drum brake was all I had to whoa with. Once fairly good, what ever that takes, it still take a man's grip to start the slowing process and tend to grab once it does so don't practice on but best surfaces initially.
Generally a proper tune need choke or a tickle to slight dribble to cold start with a closed throttle that get a slight reflex twist on first noise, then hold over 2000 to get fast oil flow protection while it empties the wet sump in about 30 sec or so. After that is still slightly warm generally just kick on closed throttle/quit blip, no tickle. If than don't goes in a couple kicks then try a tickle and cracked throtlle and catch the first fire with a bit increased throttle so don't stall back. Most important for easy starts is getting initial timing right. My method is tedious tiny adv till hint or actual back fire then tiny bit back till it don't. Then can put time light on to see where it landed and mark if you and Commando likes it. Must be full warm to set carb idle which should be darn close to 1.5 pilot turns out, Less than 1.5 implies low float level, more turns implies too high a float. But my Combat is way off in float level right now but generally can just step on it to start at dead idle once warmed well.
I took me seasons to finally get reliable first kicks expected no matter how many eyes upon me. Always suspect plugs, keep spares around, especially after over or under doing something as then tend to foul. Once dialed in seems old plugs last forever.
Clutch should be as easy and any bike to work, so suspect clutch pack thickness is messing with spring tension resting tension, but also cable to ball pivot on TS gear box and clutch rod crapped up. Clutch plates are stamped out so have rounded edge side that should face inward to ease spring clamping but can add drag to pull lever.
Once all dialed in, A Cdo should be one of the easier effort cycles to operate, excepting the drum brake slowing on a steep at speed.
Generally a proper tune need choke or a tickle to slight dribble to cold start with a closed throttle that get a slight reflex twist on first noise, then hold over 2000 to get fast oil flow protection while it empties the wet sump in about 30 sec or so. After that is still slightly warm generally just kick on closed throttle/quit blip, no tickle. If than don't goes in a couple kicks then try a tickle and cracked throtlle and catch the first fire with a bit increased throttle so don't stall back. Most important for easy starts is getting initial timing right. My method is tedious tiny adv till hint or actual back fire then tiny bit back till it don't. Then can put time light on to see where it landed and mark if you and Commando likes it. Must be full warm to set carb idle which should be darn close to 1.5 pilot turns out, Less than 1.5 implies low float level, more turns implies too high a float. But my Combat is way off in float level right now but generally can just step on it to start at dead idle once warmed well.
I took me seasons to finally get reliable first kicks expected no matter how many eyes upon me. Always suspect plugs, keep spares around, especially after over or under doing something as then tend to foul. Once dialed in seems old plugs last forever.
Clutch should be as easy and any bike to work, so suspect clutch pack thickness is messing with spring tension resting tension, but also cable to ball pivot on TS gear box and clutch rod crapped up. Clutch plates are stamped out so have rounded edge side that should face inward to ease spring clamping but can add drag to pull lever.
Once all dialed in, A Cdo should be one of the easier effort cycles to operate, excepting the drum brake slowing on a steep at speed.
DogT
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Be aware the OB clutch shims will not work with the OEM pack. It needs to be used with the Barnett pack.
Does the clutch break over so you can hold it like a compound bow? If not, it's not adjusted right. Clutch pack height will matter, but I have over 1/8" slop in mine with original plates so I have to adjust the left side adjuster so there is hardly any play in the rod and it's fine. The cable needs to be adjusted, lubed and routed correctly too.
Have you adjusted the TLS so both shoes contact at the same time? Believe me, that TLS can work fine. If you don't want to work on it, either a modern type disk or send the unit to vintage brakes and they'll fix it for $$$.
Starting I think is a matter of experience, but mine starts one kick now with Pazon and original amals with new anodized slide and jets. Are you flooding the carbs until you see fuel if you're using amals when it's cold? Hot it should start right up.
Downshifting, is your primary chain too tight? Try loosening it, it can make a big difference. When the book says 3/8", that's with hardly any pressure. Looser is better than tighter, ask hobot. The drive chain will then have to be adjusted too, loosen it first.
These things can all be sorted, it just takes some patience, but when it's right, it's right, and enjoyable.
Dave
69S
Does the clutch break over so you can hold it like a compound bow? If not, it's not adjusted right. Clutch pack height will matter, but I have over 1/8" slop in mine with original plates so I have to adjust the left side adjuster so there is hardly any play in the rod and it's fine. The cable needs to be adjusted, lubed and routed correctly too.
Have you adjusted the TLS so both shoes contact at the same time? Believe me, that TLS can work fine. If you don't want to work on it, either a modern type disk or send the unit to vintage brakes and they'll fix it for $$$.
Starting I think is a matter of experience, but mine starts one kick now with Pazon and original amals with new anodized slide and jets. Are you flooding the carbs until you see fuel if you're using amals when it's cold? Hot it should start right up.
Downshifting, is your primary chain too tight? Try loosening it, it can make a big difference. When the book says 3/8", that's with hardly any pressure. Looser is better than tighter, ask hobot. The drive chain will then have to be adjusted too, loosen it first.
These things can all be sorted, it just takes some patience, but when it's right, it's right, and enjoyable.
Dave
69S
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DogT said:
All fixable. Could be worse.
DogT
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The OB shim plates are just that, plates, so if you can't put in another friction plate or your plates are equal to or thinner than the 69/70 stock plates, it won't work. The Barnett solid plates are thinner than the 69/70 OEM ones, and there are more. I forget the exact measurements, but all the shims from OB were thinner than my solid plates, so there was no way I could build up the solid plates to make the pack thicker and I'm not going to replace one solid plate with 2. The funny thing is all my friction and solid plates are within thickness spec, but I still have 1/8" of free space when I compress the pack with the compressor tool. It's like I need a thicker inner plate or a doughnut type shim between the outside of the diaphragm and the spring that holds it all together. I've been meaning to make a thread out of this, but I don't think it would go anywhere since there are so many Barnett or Barnett style/later plates out there, no one would believe me. Besides, my clutch works perfectly, it's just critical to adjust and it always has been.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
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DogT said:
This OldBritts article describes installing a plane plate they sell between the pressure plate and the first friction plate to bring the clutch pack up to the bottom edge of the circlip groove. http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_start.html
They are toothed so they act as additional thickness for the pressure plate and come in a choice of thicknesses ranging from 0.065" to 0.075" in 0.005" increments. They will even send the set and after figuring which works best you send the others back.
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goo said:what with it not liking to stop, having heavy clutch, etc
took a while to figger out the best way to start when cold (that's probably different on all bikes)
but
down shifting is still a PITA.
Hello Goo,
Clutch and down shifting maybe the same problem. I have a two finger clutch and can down shift easily.
I am assuming your bike is standard.
Check out the DynoDave easy pull clutch and clutch rod seal. Low cost way to set up the clutch and prevent geabox oil migration. Gearbox oil makes the plates sticky and contributes to the downshift problem. I have had this setup for several years and no problems.
Front drum brake needs a local racer to set it up. You need someone who can "arc" the pads and setup the brake. They can work suprisingly well.
Starting I find relatively easy, always one kick hot or cold. Cold, I tickle the amals until I get a drip formed under the bowl on both sides, get to top dead centre and give it a serious prod. Virtually no throttle. Starting became easy once I fitted Trispark ignition. There are many ignition systems, this is my preference.
A Venhill clutch cable will do wonders for a heavy clutch pull. Also, having the correct clutch stack height is important for a light clutch pull.
For the drum brake, unless you or someone you know has the equipment and expertise to set up a drum brake, send it to Vintage Brake.
For the drum brake, unless you or someone you know has the equipment and expertise to set up a drum brake, send it to Vintage Brake.
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Seasoned clutch stack swearing Nortoneers tend to keep spare steel and friction plates on hand to mix and match with a couple to 3 different thickness pressure plates. Al type available. Upgrades are hard to argue with but my all factory Trixie has over a year now of easy predicable feathering progressive clutch, not opened to service so far, though of course being well seasoned now only ATF goes my triplex chain case, preferably Type F = Ford Friction band grade. Dextron type in gearbox if it matters there. I don't measure prior no more just mix/match till the spring just barely clears its groove freely to seat but not much if any more.
Nice looking bike.
There is no mystery to adjusting the front brake. Follow the procedure in the manual to centralize the shoes (backing plate) in the drum. Adjust the linkage and recentralize the backing plate. RGM has some higher friction shoes that can help put some bite in your braking. Make sure the rear shoes are centralized too.
What is wrong with downshifting ? Won't it select a lower gear ? There could be a spring under the gearbox outer cover that needs to be adjusted or replaced. Clutch drags ? Clean it and use a clutch push rod seal. Heavy clutch ? get a new cable, a belt drive set up for your primary, or check to see that the lifter gizmo on the gearbox side is not out of position.
Remember that you are riding a 40 year old motorcycle.
Once it is sorted, oil the cylinders on your Triumph so the pistons do not stick in the bores from lack of use.
Greg
There is no mystery to adjusting the front brake. Follow the procedure in the manual to centralize the shoes (backing plate) in the drum. Adjust the linkage and recentralize the backing plate. RGM has some higher friction shoes that can help put some bite in your braking. Make sure the rear shoes are centralized too.
What is wrong with downshifting ? Won't it select a lower gear ? There could be a spring under the gearbox outer cover that needs to be adjusted or replaced. Clutch drags ? Clean it and use a clutch push rod seal. Heavy clutch ? get a new cable, a belt drive set up for your primary, or check to see that the lifter gizmo on the gearbox side is not out of position.
Remember that you are riding a 40 year old motorcycle.
Once it is sorted, oil the cylinders on your Triumph so the pistons do not stick in the bores from lack of use.
Greg
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