Battery Recommendation?

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I'm getting very near the point where I will build my '72 a wiring harness. I want a sealed, maintenance free battery in place so that I know where I will and won't have room for my relays and fuse panel. The battery box is large, it would accmodate a battery that was up to 8"L x 4''W x 9"H. I will have the Sparx high output alternator and want to be able to run heated clothing, and eventually a starter. The battery that is listed most is a Yuasa 12N9-4B-1, which is 6.875" x 3.4375" x 6.125", I'd like to get one that was longer, up to 8" and lower, say 5", the width I'm open to.

Any suggestions?

RS
 
bwolfie said:
http://www.bellissimoto.com/MavirykDesignBatteries.html

These packs are pretty expensive, given that its just four standard A123 cells (type 26650 to be precise) soldered together and put into a shrink tube. These cells retail at less than 15€ each and 70€ for a similar 4 cell pack here in Germany so $125 is too much IMHO. LiFePo4 cells are pretty well suited for the kind of power supply provided by an alternator but they need a BMS/Equalizer for longevity.


Tim
 
I have to admit that I am running a 12v battery out of an UPS. I compared numbers and they were about half the price of batteries specified for motorcycles or ATVs. The main difference is the terminal type. Instead of big rugged looking lead terminals they have a tinned copper tab that takes a nut and bolt (NB2) or a spade.

You should make some attempt to add up how many amps you are going to be pulling in normal use, and to figure how many amps a starter is going to pull and make sure the battery you choose will deliver it. Not as in it will last for three hours pulling ten amps, but as in will it deliver 50 amps even for a burst. This would be cold cranking amps in a typical automotive battery, but batteries for other applications will not have this number associated with them. However, an UPS battery is usually rated for high discharge rates because it is being converted back to 110v and thus the amp load is quite large. So if you go this route, look at the max discharge rate. The attached link shows a battery that will deliver 63.0 amps for 7 minutes but 210.0 for ten seconds!

http://www.power-sonic.com/images/power ... une_22.pdf
 
The AGM is (jell) are good batteries but i have had 2 fail in 2 years. I have learned alot about batteries in the last year and have found that lead acid batteries are much more robust, take a charge more effeciently, will last 3 time as long and cost less. That being said, I still have the third (second free replacement) in my bike. If and when this one fails they will not replace it any more (Batteries Plus) and a lead acid battery will go in its place. I can't blame them, I have gotten my moneys worth (the hard way). There are of course maintenance issues with the L.A. units, but that's what we Nortoneers are all about.

http://www.batteriesplus.com/products/5 ... 008/1.aspx
 
I have an AGM battery from mikesxs in my xs650. the first one failed during winter storage, only 2 months in the bike. He warrantied it for free, but I'm afraid it won't survive the winter storage. I used the bike 2 weeks ago, after a month of sitting, and dead battery. Enough juice to kick start, but it has never really worked with the electric start. I think i'll stick with lead acid for now, i get 2 to 3 years out of one. I might build myself an A123 pack and give that a go.
 
bwolfie said:
I have an AGM battery from mikesxs in my xs650. the first one failed during winter storage, only 2 months in the bike. He warrantied it for free, but I'm afraid it won't survive the winter storage. I used the bike 2 weeks ago, after a month of sitting, and dead battery. Enough juice to kick start, but it has never really worked with the electric start. I think i'll stick with lead acid for now, i get 2 to 3 years out of one. I might build myself an A123 pack and give that a go.


Sounds like something else is wrong, although I have never used the battery you used . The first Odyssey AGM battery I bough lasted nearly 10 years in my wife's stock MK3. It would start with the button even after setting for a couple months. I have since installed them in all my bikes. Occasional use of a maintenance charger is nec with any battery in long storage. Jim
 
pvisseriii said:
The AGM is (jell) are good batteries but i have had 2 fail in 2 years. I have learned alot about batteries in the last year and have found that lead acid batteries are much more robust, take a charge more effeciently, will last 3 time as long and cost less. That being said, I still have the third (second free replacement) in my bike. If and when this one fails they will not replace it any more (Batteries Plus) and a lead acid battery will go in its place. I can't blame them, I have gotten my moneys worth (the hard way). There are of course maintenance issues with the L.A. units, but that's what we Nortoneers are all about.

http://www.batteriesplus.com/products/5 ... 008/1.aspx


Jell cells and AGM batteries are not the same, although AGM ,jell cells and wet cells are all lead acid batteries. I had pretty poor luck with jell cells. Jim
 
I had a Panasonic AGM battery in my 2000 Miata (don't say anything) that lasted until this fall. That's almost 11 years. I got a Yuasa from Clubman for my 69 S. Main reason these AGM batteries fail is people put rapid chargers on them or let them go flat for extended periods, or buy a cheap one. A high current charger will kill them pretty quick as well as letting them go flat. If they are not in use, keep them inside and charge them once a month with a 1 Amp or less charger. Or use a correct battery manager. Gell cells are not for M/C's, they don't stand up to the vibration.

Dave
69S
 
Hi,

Is a 7 AH (YUASA YTX7L-BS) powerfull enough for a non electric start Norton (or Triumph)?
(Halogen headlight, LED tail light, regular flashers, 3 phase alternator, occasionnal GPS use...)
 
Hi,

Is a 7 AH (YUASA YTX7L-BS) powerfull enough for a non electric start Norton (or Triumph)?
(Halogen headlight, LED tail light, regular flashers, 3 phase alternator, occasionnal GPS use...)
 
SGOUD said:
Hi,

Is a 7 AH (YUASA YTX7L-BS) powerfull enough for a non electric start Norton (or Triumph)?
(Halogen headlight, LED tail light, regular flashers, 3 phase alternator, occasionnal GPS use...)


Sure, The alternator supplies the power and you have that. The battery will only be needed to run the ignition until the bike starts so you can get by with a tiny battery with a 3 phase. Jim
 
comnoz said:
SGOUD said:
Hi,

Is a 7 AH (YUASA YTX7L-BS) powerfull enough for a non electric start Norton (or Triumph)?
(Halogen headlight, LED tail light, regular flashers, 3 phase alternator, occasionnal GPS use...)


Sure, The alternator supplies the power and you have that. The battery will only be needed to run the ignition until the bike starts so you can get by with a tiny battery with a 3 phase. Jim

Thanks Jim, so I will replace my SONIC battery from my Triumph, a very tight fit and rubbing against wires that can't be moved, with a smaller size YUASA with room to spare!
 
Tintin said:
bwolfie said:
http://www.bellissimoto.com/MavirykDesignBatteries.html

These packs are pretty expensive, given that its just four standard A123 cells (type 26650 to be precise) soldered together and put into a shrink tube. These cells retail at less than 15€ each and 70€ for a similar 4 cell pack here in Germany so $125 is too much IMHO. LiFePo4 cells are pretty well suited for the kind of power supply provided by an alternator but they need a BMS/Equalizer for longevity.


Tim


I bought one of those four-cell batteries directly from Jim (Maviryk Design) for US$80 delivered. I like it a lot. He may be exclusive through this new distributor now, but why not email him and find out? maviryk@gmail.com Good guy.
 
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