Battery eliminator wire diagram

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nortnlvr

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Hi all new to this site. I'm building a bare bones cafe combat commando, I tossed the blinkers and stock handle bar controls, and the stock wire harness. I will build my own wire harness, but wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram I could use to build the wire harness. I will not use a battery, and I'm using the SParx battery eliminator.
 
You can do this yourself by figuring out where you will need juice. Start with a list of what you will have. Keyed switch, ignition if your running points or electronic (magneto needs no power), kill switch or on/off, on/off/high/low, horn button, headlights, rear running, brake light switches, brake light, horn, fuses, etc. Draw the components in their circuits. The reason most people do their own custom wiring is because they have different setups and build to their needs. It would be a good idea to have basic electricity knowledge. Buy a book on Motorcycle electrics to get started. If done wrong it can get expensive fast.
 
Are you sure you want to eliminate the battery? Never met an owner yet who had done this and didn't regret it. There a lot's of small, light, sealed twelve volt cells out there.
 
Ron L said:
Are you sure you want to eliminate the battery? Never met an owner yet who had done this and didn't regret it. There a lot's of small, light, sealed twelve volt cells out there.
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What are the disadvantages exactly? I have one, seems to work great....I want to know if I am missing something vital.

john
 
When I got my '69, it didn't have a battery. I ran it that way on and off for maybe 8 years, never a problem. I was dirt poor and couldn't afford one either, plus no acid burns anywhere. I'm not sure I am going to get one right away on my restoration.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
When I got my '69, it didn't have a battery. I ran it that way on and off for maybe 8 years, never a problem. I was dirt poor and couldn't afford one either, plus no acid burns anywhere. I'm not sure I am going to get one right away on my restoration.

Dave
69S
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AGM. Nothing to spill. Plus they are better in every other way.
 
As I see it, it all boils down to what ignition you want to run. I hope to be able to afford to put a hunt on the backside of my 850 when the time comes and yes it will be battery-less if I do this. If the finances don't allow than I may go battery-less and run points until I can afford the hunt. If it looks like finances will never allow I'll go with a tiny battery hidden between the engine/tranny or behind the tranny under the swing arm and Pazon. Running electronic without a battery is difficult, I've done it and the results left something to be desired. Points no battery isn't too bad, done it, livable. Ideal no battery situation for me is magneto, (not lucas).

http://www.ebattonline.com/
Have some nice batteries.
 
I have a Boyer ignition, but plan on converting to points if the Boyer doesn't work out. I understand they have some low rpm power issues. Bottom line is I will not use a battery. There are a lot of bikes including nortons running fine without one. I plan on building my wire harness out of aircraft wire. I think the weakest link in the Nortons electrical systems is the wiring connectors.
 
nortnlvr said:
I have a Boyer ignition, but plan on converting to points if the Boyer doesn't work out. I understand they have some low rpm power issues. Bottom line is I will not use a battery. There are a lot of bikes including nortons running fine without one. I plan on building my wire harness out of aircraft wire. I think the weakest link in the Nortons electrical systems is the wiring connectors.
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A long time ago I used a mitymax and Boyer together. I say give it a try but keep those points handy. You're probably going to want to put them back on. The problem with a lot of electronic ignitions is they need voltage that you wont have to get the bike started easily. Points work better. I'd prefer to have a mag to keep the systems separate.

Here is another compact battery
http://turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20B ... lcome.html
 
I am finding this thread very interesting. But.....let's remember that nortnlvr asked for a diagram for an ignition without a battery.
 
willh said:
As I see it, it all boils down to what ignition you want to run. I hope to be able to afford to put a hunt on the backside of my 850 when the time comes and yes it will be battery-less if I do this. If the finances don't allow than I may go battery-less and run points until I can afford the hunt.
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Going the same route on a Triumph chop. Hunt magneto, Sparx battery eliminator and high output Wassell rotor/stator, no battery, just a headlight toggle, a brake light switch and maybe a fuse somewhere.
 
[quote="Coco Going the same route on a Triumph chop. Hunt magneto, Sparx battery eliminator and high output Wassell rotor/stator, no battery, just a headlight toggle, a brake light switch and maybe a fuse somewhere.[/quote]

Do you really need to go with the high output Wassell rotor / stator if you run with a Hunt magneto and NO battery? Reason I see it is that unless you ride a lot at night, then its a cheaper, simpler and more reliable option to just fit a small high capacity gel battery and NO alternator. Just hook it up to a smart charger once in a while. Headlight with LED bulb will burn for days off a battery.

Mick
 
Coco said:
willh said:
As I see it, it all boils down to what ignition you want to run. I hope to be able to afford to put a hunt on the backside of my 850 when the time comes and yes it will be battery-less if I do this. If the finances don't allow than I may go battery-less and run points until I can afford the hunt.
Click to expand...

Going the same route on a Triumph chop. Hunt magneto, Sparx battery eliminator and high output Wassell rotor/stator, no battery, just a headlight toggle, a brake light switch and maybe a fuse somewhere.
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What I have done is run a three position key switch.
position 1 Off
position 2 ignition
position 3 ignition + everything else

Starts the bike easily with no capacitor drain in position 2. Then switch to position 3 . Not hard to remember at night but could get you in trouble if you forget during the day.
 
ML said:
[quote="Coco Going the same route on a Triumph chop. Hunt magneto, Sparx battery eliminator and high output Wassell rotor/stator, no battery, just a headlight toggle, a brake light switch and maybe a fuse somewhere.
Click to expand...

Do you really need to go with the high output Wassell rotor / stator if you run with a Hunt magneto and NO battery? Reason I see it is that unless you ride a lot at night, then its a cheaper, simpler and more reliable option to just fit a small high capacity gel battery and NO alternator. Just hook it up to a smart charger once in a while. Headlight with LED bulb will burn for days off a battery.

Mick[/quote]

Not a bad idea if you don't mind plugging in once and a while. Could also get you in trouble when the battery goes down when you aren't expecting it though.

Will
 
The Boyer's timing will be all over the place without steady power. If you have any intentions of starting and idling the bike, I'd revert to points as the first step.
 
I have just done that with my Norton Hunt maggie, Sparx elimanator, have 3 main power, brake and tail light wire so only 5 wires in the main wiring harnest, very neat and not much to go wrong and 1 earth wire but didn't run it in the main wiring harnest all works good and a hidden switch for the maggie kill switch, very easy job to do and neat and all wiring heat shrinked...
 
Great nortnlvr, I would love to see it. It might be better if you could post in the thread for all to see. Also, I would love to see some Pics of mag instillations. Any one have some?
 
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