Barnett Clutch Plates

Bullshit really does baffle brains doesnt it!!
Sintered bronze has a LOWER coefficient of friction than many other friction materials thus changing to sintered bronze merely reduces the torque capacity within a clutch increasing the slip problem.
The original friction material employed on Commando friction plates was Ferodo MS6. Its C of F values for design purposes are given by Ferodo as DRY 0.34. OIL MIST 0.1-0.12. OIL 0.09. Ferodo also manufactured sintered bronze friction materials. Ferodo SM6 was intended for use with oil and its C of F for design purposes is given as 0.07. Ferodo SM3 especially suitable for dry heavy duty use has a C of F for design purposes of 0.26. The Chief Clutch Designed Of Laycock Engineering (a company that designed and manufactured clutches for much of the USA, European and UK auto industrty and which manufactured all the diaphragm springs used in the Villiers Starmaker, Commando and rotary Norton clutches- 7 different versions in total)) stated to me that for his wet sintered bronze clutch calculations he employed a C of F of 0.06 and stated that the use of 0.08 as given in some reference books was in his experience being optimistic!!
The ONLY reason Villiers and later Norton employed sintered bronze friction material was as a LAST attempt to cdure the serious clutch slip problem due to oil which in turn was due to employing clutches designed to be run dry within an oil bath chain case in the first place!!. In the case of the Villiers Starmaker single and twin friction plate clutches the Laycock Engeineerings Chief Clutch Desiigners (Mr Peter Senior) design note book shows they were originally designed as DRY clutches ...simply because the ******* at Villiers had neglected to inform Laycock Engineering that they were to be employed within an oil bath chain case and were designed to employ either dry use only Ferodo VG or RYZ friction material. Thus they suffered from slip problems due to oil reaching the friction interfaces so rather than redesign everything they simply replaced the friction material with sintered bronze so that when oil entered the clutch resulting in slip problems the slip would generate very high temperatures within the friction interfaces and burn off the oil causing the slip leaving the clutch in theory dry once again...till more oil entered it that is!! Now Norton had exactly the same slip problem due to oil and I suspect that at a mismanagement meeting to discuss possible solutions (they had already changed the diaphragm spring 3 times raising the clamp load from a nice easy two finger operated 380 lbf to a rediculously heavy operated 550 lbf in an effort to cure the slip problem) there must of been an ex Villiers person present who remembered the Starmaker bodge so they suggested they do the same on Commandos......and I bet everyone present ran around screaming ureka as a Greek Gentleman had done a few years previously. The black gunge that forms on Commando bronxe plated clutch friction interfaces causing god awful drag problems is burnt off oil. Friends refer to it as black shit. Personally I refer to Commando so called clutches as vastly overweight gearbox breaking flywheels, especially the bronze plated lumps. Mind you that same applies to Triumph T120 and t140 so called clutches and even BSA A65 ones!! Ever weighed an old Dommy clutch and compared it to later lumps?? Double the weight and you quadruple the mass and the flywheel is suppossed to be on the crank!!
The only possible advantage I can see to employing those RGM bronze friction plates is that the friction material is very narrow compared to other earlier plates thus it increases the effective radius very slightly thus increasing very slightly the torque capacity of the clutch. As to whether the friction material is still directly beneath and in line with the point at which the diaphragm spring applies load to the pressure plate.......... Dont suppose anyone thought about that one.... or did someone ASSUME that the pressure line (the raised lip on the pressure plate) would be in the CORRECT place at the inner edge of the Belliville spring as it was on the Starmaker clutches?? The Commando lumps being simply bodged versions of the Starmaker design.
Go strip a pile of non bronze and bronze plated clutches as I once did with a BIG pile of ex USA clutches a friend bought and you will find every plain plate from bronze plated clutches is badly blued up due to excessive heat due to the rediculous amount of slip they do. mind you I doubt many owners realise their clutches slip every so often or take a lot longer to fully engage.
But I suppose people make money out of flogging the public such clutch plates....... Wonder if the sintered bronze used iwas developed for dry or wet use or both ? I think I know the person to ask.........
 
lazyeye6 said:
While the pedagogy of this discussion is quite interesting, I am more interested in practical realities.
If I install a new set of Barnett clutch plates into my Commando along with a new dry belt drive
system, will the clutch slip or grab or do anything other than what I expect a clutch to do? In other
words, should I dose the plates with ATF before assembly? Will they stick together when laid up
for a while?

2nd question: Regarding my original post, I am still uncertain about what to do about my new
set of Barnett clutch plates installed in my Mercury, which stick together and won't come apart.
Yes, I will get them to separate one way or another, but it seems kind of stupid to have to
tie the clutch lever open in order to keep them from re-sticking together. I did not do anything
to them, such as soaking them in ATF. Maybe I should break open the primary and do something?
Just askin'

First question:

I do not think the clutch in your Commando will do anything such as grabbing or slip, that you would not expect. However, If you assemble the plates dry, I will bet they will stick. If you dose in ATF first, they will not stick at first, but running a dry belt will eventually cause the ATF film to sling off the plates and I predict sticking will re-occur. How long it takes for this to happen is anyone's guess.

Second question:

A smear of ATF on my Barnett plates solved the sticking problem in my Atlas. Since I am running the clutch wet with ATF, as I surmise you are in your Mercury, the film is constantly renewed, and the problem solved.

Either open the primary and smear ATF on the plates, or if you can get the clutch free, take the bike for a long ride. Perhaps the run will wet the plates, and the problem should be solved.

Slick
 
The new plates in the Mercury WILL NOT loosen up with ATF, oil (dino nor synth), WD40, butter, vaseline, or any other lubricant.

They are improperly SIZED to fit the clutch center.
 
The simple answer is a CORRECTLY fitted, CORRECTLY designed, CORRECTLY manufactured, CORRECTLY hard anodised dry running belt system employing a diaphragm spring clutch which being CORRECTLY designed manufactured and hard anodised will weigh in total about 61/2 lb. You then end up with a clutch that .....
1. does NOT slip when fully engaged, even when hot.
2 frees off instantly without drag whenever required, even when hot.
3 is EASILY operated by the user at all times.
4 possesses the LIGHTEST rotating weight reasonably possible.
However the use of a Commando type clutch, standard AMC lift mechanism and a 7/8 inch clutch lever does not reallyresult in enough lift at the clutch plate interfaces to allow good seperation with a clutch employing 4 friction plates and thus good drag free freeing off. it is just about minimal. Using a 1 1/16 inch centres clutch lever increases the lift enough to give good seperation with 4 friction plates but increases the grunt required to operate the clutch lever but it should still be a reasonably easy two finger operation.
The big problem is obtaining the CORRECT bit..... I doubt there are many belt system manufacturers who can even manage a few simple clutch torque calculations so as to manufacture their clutches correctly .....certainly a few clearly know much if anything about belts!!
 
So what variety of clutch and belt drive do YOU use in your Norton, JM ?
 
Thank you!

Exactly which of the many belt drive/clutch plate/clutch spring/clutch lever combos are you speaking of?
Pedagogy is great in education grad schools. I live here on earth.
 
lazyeye6 said:
Thank you!

Exactly which of the many belt drive/clutch plate/clutch spring/clutch lever combos are you speaking of?
Pedagogy is great in education grad schools. I live here on earth.

I run a Barnet clutch pack supplied by Matt at cNw. I fitted them dry. Dropped straight in and works perfectly, no slip, drag, sticking etc at all. Only minor niggle is a slight squeal when pulling away sharpish (perhaps because I fitted them dry?). I've done several track days and two 1/2 days on the Dyno, plus a few thousand road miles, without issue with this set up.

I am currently running a Norvil supplied belt drive but have a Maney version on the shelf which I intend to swap over when I get a round tuit. I like the Maney system because it spins the gearbox faster, which is better for the gearbox as it spreads the torque / stress over more teeth per revolution.

The difference in weight between a stock bronze plate / steel sprocket / chain drive and the alloy Barnets, alloy pulleys and belt drive is staggering. It must be an absolute blessing for the long suffering, and flexing, gearbox mainshaft !!
 
Any information regarding the friction materials employed by Barnett on their Commando friction plates would be most welcome because I have totally failed to glean such info and a belt drive system maker friend is suppossed to of been trying to obtain the data for several years now! I cannot even find out if they employ a friction material intended for dry use only or one intended for wet use only or one that can be employed both wet and dry. As for the coefficient of friction values the materials give......... Exactly how one can correctly design clutches using Barnett Commando friction plates not knowing such information is totally beyond my powers of understanding. I assume they match those of the materials employed by Norton?????... I also ASSUME a dry C of F of 0.35 but I also use a safety factor of x2 in my clutch torque capacuty requirements so probably have a a greater safety factor than required... better to have toooo much torque capacity in a clutch than toooo little and a slipping clutch!!..... For the Don International DON 112 material solid fibre friction plates used by Norton on Commandos for years before asbestos was banned the data sheet only gives a DRY use only C of F of 0.34 at 100-200C and 0.4 at 400C. It states the material can be employed wet but thats all the info it gives on that subject. A rule of thumb is that the dry of F value is 3 to 4 times greater than the wet value so in theory the wet C of F value of Don 112 would be about the same as that of Ferodo MS6 employed on the original Commado friction plates which are given as, for design purposes, Dry 0.34. Oil mist 0.1-0.12. In oil 0.09.
Some people refer to sintered bronze as being high torque......... It will take 3 generations of owners to ever wear out Commando bronze plates, they thrive on abuse and high temperatures and can run in oil which is why sintered bronze plated clutches are employed in automatic gearboxes etc........ Bronze being employed for clutches around 1900!! I assume all Norton owners have a copy of and have read ' Early Motor Cycles ..Construction ..Operation...Service by Victor W. Page ??? It really is an interesting book.
 
J. M. Leadbeater said:
Any information regarding the friction materials employed by Barnett on their Commando friction plates would be most welcome because I have totally failed to glean such info and a belt drive system maker friend is suppossed to of been trying to obtain the data for several years now! I cannot even find out if they employ a friction material intended for dry use only or one intended for wet use only or one that can be employed both wet and dry. As for the coefficient of friction values the materials give......... Exactly how one can correctly design clutches using Barnett Commando friction plates not knowing such information is totally beyond my powers of understanding. I assume they match those of the materials employed by Norton?????... I also ASSUME a dry C of F of 0.35 but I also use a safety factor of x2 in my clutch torque capacuty requirements so probably have a a greater safety factor than required... better to have toooo much torque capacity in a clutch than toooo little and a slipping clutch!!..... For the Don International DON 112 material solid fibre friction plates used by Norton on Commandos for years before asbestos was banned the data sheet only gives a DRY use only C of F of 0.34 at 100-200C and 0.4 at 400C. It states the material can be employed wet but thats all the info it gives on that subject. A rule of thumb is that the dry of F value is 3 to 4 times greater than the wet value so in theory the wet C of F value of Don 112 would be about the same as that of Ferodo MS6 employed on the original Commado friction plates which are given as, for design purposes, Dry 0.34. Oil mist 0.1-0.12. In oil 0.09.
Some people refer to sintered bronze as being high torque......... It will take 3 generations of owners to ever wear out Commando bronze plates, they thrive on abuse and high temperatures and can run in oil which is why sintered bronze plated clutches are employed in automatic gearboxes etc........ Bronze being employed for clutches around 1900!! I assume all Norton owners have a copy of and have read ' Early Motor Cycles ..Construction ..Operation...Service by Victor W. Page ??? It really is an interesting book.

I'm one of the lower intellect people, so I don't understand much of what you write sir.

I don't understand what it is that you don't understand when you say: "Exactly how one can correctly design clutches using Barnett Commando friction plates not knowing such information is totally beyond my powers of understanding". Barnet did the design work. Us simple owner mechanics simply do the assembly work! I think it is fair to assume that Barnet might know a little bit about clutches, and that they use this knowledge in their design work.

I also don't understand why you think Barnet should share info re the material used with anyone else! Why should they?

Neither do I understand why you would assume that "all Norton owners" own, and have read, 'Early Motor Cycles ..Construction ..Operation...Service' by Victor W. Page. Irrespective of how interesting it may, or may not be, that is what heck of a wild assumption !
 
Fast Eddie asks why should Barnett provide information on the friction material they employ on their friction plates..... The answer is that if people are going to use their clutch friction plates in clutches they are manufacturing for belt drive kits and are doing the job CORRECTLY, which I suspect very few are, then they need to know. Hell whats the great secret?? All friction material manufacturers publisg FULL data sheets..... Following is a demonstration just for Fast Eddie.......

Several months ago a very good friend asked me if I could cobble together a diaphragm spring clutch belt drive system clutch for a Triumph T140 owned by the Gentleman who had borrowed my spare Dommy and ES2 Wideline frames to use for the frame jigs he was producing.....is every bugger in the World producing Wideline frames these days?? Just wait till the Chinese start production although I dread to think of the quality.......
I replied that I suppose I could as I had a few suitable finished pulleys available but he woulod have to wait till I found some enthusiasm in my very olde age. I found the pulleys and a few days later sat down with a mug of tea and calcultor to do some VERY SIMPLE BASIC clutch calculations.... because its a zillion years since i last cobbled together a T140 or T120 system for a friend....Or A65 come to think of it.

Max crank torque = 45 ft lb on a good day.... Primary ratio to be employed 36t engine and 68t clutch pulleys thus MAX torque at clutch = 45 x 68/36 = 85 ft lb. To this I apply a rule of thumb x2 clutch safety / service factor giving a clutch torque capacity requirement of 85 x 2 = 170 ft lb

Now for the back of fag packet clutch 'design' (ha ha) calculation.......
4 friction plates = 8 friction interfaces. Effective radius of Barnett Commando plate friction material approx 0.21 ft. Coefficient of friction of Barnett carbon friction material DRY...who the **** knows. Do Barnett?? A guess is 0.35. Now I need to calculate the load the diaphragm spring needs to apply to the friction interfaces...... 170 ft lb = 8 interfaces x 0.21 ft effective radius x 0.35 c of f x required clamp load.
Required clamp load = 290 lbf which is 90 lbf LESS than that given by the original 750 Commando diaphragm spring when correctly set up so clutch lever action will be even lighter than the easy two fingers required for the early Commandos........(later clutches employed different diaphragm spring and the last version gave a clamp load of around 550lbf which required a LOT more rider 'grunt' to operate the clutch lever)

I then looked at my folder containing various diaphragm spring load - deflection curves, selected a spring and a pressure plate of the required thickness to set the spring at the required deflection point to give a clamp load of approx 290 lbf.
Thus another T140 owner ends up, in theory, with a correctly working DRY clutch that ..........
1. Will NOT slip when fully engaged even when hot..
2. Will free off INSTANTLY without drag whenever required even when hot.
3. Which is EASILY operated by the user at all times.
4. As the complete clutch weighs approx 61/2 lb a clutch that possesses the lightest rotating weight reasonably possible.
I.E. A clutch that possess all the basic qualities laid out by such people as Mr Phil Irving for clutches a great many decades ago...... Not that a great many British bike owners are aware of such things.......

Now could Fast Eddie please explain to me how I can do such simple clutch calculations enabling me to give my friends correctly working DRY belt driven diaphragm spring clutches if I do not have the coefficient of friction values for the friction material? I await the answer with interest!! Personally I suspect Barnett think Commando clutches were designed to be run with oil on the friction plates and cannot supply DRY c of f values because they are employing WET use only friction materials... Of course they could always supply the information requested for several years......

I wont bother you with the tale of trying to obtain data from Barnett but on May 15 2014 they did fax a friend a sheet showing nine friction materials with one of them them hand marked 'Carbon' and another 'Kevlar' but the sheet has the heading WET FRICTION APPLICATION CHART (CONTINUED) and the c of f values shown are WET values ranging from 0.1 to 0.17. I assume these are the friction materials employed by Barnett and as the sheet gives no indication that they are also suitable for DRY use then Barnett must think Commando clutches are wet clutches... They are when people over fill the chain case with the wrong type and grade of oil !! Read your manuals.... 200cc of oil ONLY...forget the bloody drainn plug the pratts set tooooo high. And use something like SAE10-40 Castrolite or similar if you can find it (as recommended in A65 workshop manuals)... The Norton oil bath chain case was originally designed in the 1930s to employ straight SAE10 or 20 engine oil. I remember when people were employing very 'thin' Redex in Bultaco chain cases to stop the very high linear speed chains failing before the end of races....... like when Barry Sheene was riding them.....

NO spell or grammer checks done.
 
J. M. Leadbeater said:
NO spell or grammer checks done.

Most people who write books have a proof reader.

Since that hasn't been done in this case I will wait for the paperback. :D
 
Coming full circle on my original post, I recently rode my Mercury. I was able to break the stuck Barnett plates free by nicking it into gear while rolling. So after a short ride I opened the primary. 120 ml of fluid drained out and was saved and measured. Probably 10 ml was spilled. I had put in 130 ml. I found the primary chain to be almost dry and excessively tight. The new Barnett drive plates were totally dry and 4 of 5 stuck to the steel plates. I had to pry them apart. I have coated the plates with a smear of ATF and am reassembling it all now.
I'll report back on my experience, though unlikely I will make any comment about friction coefficients or recommend any books long out of print. :|
 
Would you please inform us how you managed to over tension the chain? Its damn nigh impossible if you know what you are doing. An overtensioned chain is a bloody good way to KNACKER a chain with broken rollers and wear ..it also does the sprockets little good as does incorrect lubrication.........
For good drag free freeing off employing DRY moulded friction materials I was told/ advised by the Chief Clutch Designer I consulted for decades on clutch and diaphragm spring design that a gap per friction interface of the order of 0.005 inch is 'normal'. Thus with an AMC clutch employing 12 friction interfaces a lift of around 0.060 inch is required if the DRY clutch is to free off without drag occuring.
As far as I am aware the AMC clutch and the lift mechanism were designed to employ a clutch lever with 7/8 inch between the lever pivot point and the centre of the cable nipple and my measuring showed it gives a lift of approx 0.088 inch with the adjuster backed off half a turn. If you have a lever with 1 1/16 inch centres all you do is increase the lift with the adjuster backed off half a turn to approx 0.128 inch and make clutch lever operation even harder. Tis amazing the difference a 7/8 inch lever can make......
ANY form of lubricant on the friction interfaces will result in stiction and the plates will not free off correctly. I repeat ANY. Going from 50 year old plus memories an overtight chain will affect clutch freeing off.
I would suggest you remove the primary chain case outer / chain and then operate the clutch lever and see if it the clutch frees off correctly. If it does not do so remove the plates (MARKING the basket and centre before doing so along with each plate as you remove them so you can reinstall them in EXACTLY the same position as removed.......most people do not do this and them wonder why their clutch centre and basket become notched.....) and wash the plates in what they like to call petrol these days to remove ALL traces of oil and see if that makes a difference...... I am of course assuming your clutch centre and basket are not notched......
I did hear a few weeks ago the sad tale of another Norton clutch that would not free off correctly......not only was the big nut on the end of the main shaft loose enabling the pushrod to push the whole clutch outward a few thou reducing the lift given by the lift mechanism but some brain dead had not only the wrong diameter pushrod fitted (they are shown on the drawing as 6mm) but also cut it in two inserting a very small diameter ball between the two halves and when the lift mechanism was operated the pushrods rose up on the radius of the ball reducing lift given at the clutch......
It might be an idea to check the lift given by the lift mechanism as well........Some people even fit the wrong diameter ball against the lift cam.......
Best of luck with the learning curve and remember the Triumph twin road test in Motor Cycle Sport many years ago which commented ' As with the last Triumph tested it was possible to start the engine with the clutch lever back to the bar ' ... now that is a drag problem!!. When I asked Mr Doug Hele if he was aware of this serious Triumph twin clutch drag problem he replied something like ' It was something we never got around to curing ' I failed to note his reply as I was far more interested in following Mr Hopwoods advice and picking Mr Heles memories regarding his experimentation with con rod length to stroke ratios whist working at Norton before following Mr Hopwood to Triumph. anything even Triumph had to be a better bet than going to AMC !
I will leave it for others to correct my grammer and spelling.......
 
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