Bad Boyer???

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I'm running my old Boyer Mk1A from 1974. I don't remember if I did it or if it came that way but there is a black 2-position bakelite terminal strip bolted and soldered to the PC board. This is similar to what is found on old radio receivers and test equipment.

Every time this comes up the same guys have to get in their Boyer bashing. Give it a rest. It is not that big a deal...really. Easily fixed.

Russ
 
batrider said:
I'm running my old Boyer Mk1A from 1974. I don't remember if I did it or if it came that way but there is a black 2-position bakelite terminal strip bolted and soldered to the PC board. This is similar to what is found on old radio receivers and test equipment.

Every time this comes up the same guys have to get in their Boyer bashing. Give it a rest. It is not that big a deal...really. Easily fixed.

Russ
Click to expand...

+1 and if you wrap a little piece of explosafe around the wires (to prevent them from shaking) under the pointscover you'll be fine for ever.
 
I never meant this to be a Boyer bashing session. It started out as an issue I had not experienced before and turned into a lesson about listening to my bike and what it is telling me everytime I ride it. I will modify the old pick up plate and keep it as a spare and move on from here. By the way, do i need to put brass screws in the plate to secure the wires?
 
calbigbird said:
By the way, do i need to put brass screws in the plate to secure the wires?
Click to expand...

As you found out the soldered wires typically break. And usually at the most inopportune moments. I'm eager to try the brass screw fix.
 
Jeeze Boyer trigger wires are known weak link and should always be replaced by an up grade kit like Greg Fauth sells cheap. norbsa@hotmail.com
Just don't put more than one bolt head or single nut thickness of terminal posts behind the trigger plate or magnets can click it and throw Boyer into berserk timing events. Keep in mind copper wires can break inside nice looking insulation and give fits of intermittent symptoms.

BTW PosiLocks connectors will fit under points cover for definitive repeatable connections, though I've often used hold house wire nut-caps just fine.
http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html

hobot
 
hobot said:
Just don't put more than one bolt head or single nut thickness of terminal posts behind the trigger plate or magnets can click it and throw Boyer into berserk timing events.

hobot
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I thought brass (as recommended) was non-ferrous and thus wouldn't affect the magnets?
 
I don't care if it's considered Boyer bashing or not, the soldered wires on the pickup plate are not acceptable automotive or motorcycle manufacturing technique.
 
Dave, I was warning about physical fouling not conductance which is a non issue on what clamps Boyer wires to their conductive terminals, except it sure matters how they do terminate down there in 360 twins.

I'll have no more Boyer's in my life, just too fussy for voltage, sluggish curve and no rev limiter w/o double the expense add on.
I got mine to work as well as anyone. Boyer fired Ms Peel in her best prime power sprees, but I found my self liking plain points better in factory Combat for response
and low idle. Points might have acted as rev limiter by floating before tach needle almost broke off the peg stop.

Another weak wire spot is coil terminals. I coiled my leads around a pencil so less flex at the terminations.
Bad Boyer???
 
Bad Boyer - Replacing with Trispark - Maybe???

Bad Boyer getting in a few more licks on me. I have taken off the Boyer Stator, but cannot remove the Boyer rotor. It is stuck on good. Got the (undersized) bolt holding the rotor off easily enough. However, the rotor is simply not budging. I tried fitting a bolt into the threads of rotor and tapping gently to loosen it, but no luck. I don't want to violate the 2nd cardinal rule of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance - "Don't Break What You are Attempting to Fix".

Any thoughts - maybe I can get some pix after I get home from Brit Jam in CT.
 
Re: Bad Boyer - Replacing with Trispark - Maybe???

C-Bat said:
Bad Boyer getting in a few more licks on me. I have taken off the Boyer Stator, but cannot remove the Boyer rotor. It is stuck on good. Got the (undersized) bolt holding the rotor off easily enough. However, the rotor is simply not budging. I tried fitting a bolt into the threads of rotor and tapping gently to loosen it, but no luck. I don't want to violate the 2nd cardinal rule of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance - "Don't Break What You are Attempting to Fix".
Click to expand...

There is a slide hammer kit available to pop the rotor off, but since you've a bolt that fits the centre of the rotor;

You'll need to make a spacer out of a piece of bar or bolt shank that will easily fit right into the rotor and bottom out on the base of the cam taper. Mark the length flush with the rotor and cut it say 5/16" shorter. Put the the spacer into the rotor, fit the bolt and jack the rotor off.

Cash
 
I've posted this before. To remove Boyer rotor or stock AA unit: Remove bolt. Use toolkit screwdriver or a 6" non-threaded rod (about 1/4" dia) and hold it in the hole where the bolt went. Give a gentle sideways bump with the heel of your hand on the handle - up, down, left, right and it will rock right out. (Don't overdo it.)
 
I drilled out holes in the plate and used small screws and nuts, can't remember the size, to fasten the wires to the boyer pickup plate. If you would like a picture of this I could probably post one. I'm sure there is a thread on here about it somewhere. I got the idea from the INOA list years ago So you could search their forum on yahoo. Next time buy a pazon or trispark they eliminate the soldering points and run much better than a boyer. I have never had very consistent or long term luck with boyers and personally do not recommend their products.
 
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