Atlas cylinder resleeving

Jim Comstock or Dan at F/G.

www.fagengine.com

Vintage Triumph cylinder boring

Boring hundreds of Triumph twin cylinders has given us the experience that other shops may not have. We have prepared many cylinders for street, show, and race winning engines using the Although we occasionally do vintage Harley, BSA, Norton, and other motorcycle cylinders our main focus is...
www.fagengine.com www.fagengine.com
 
elefantrider said:
Jim Comstock or Dan at F/G.

www.fagengine.com

Vintage Triumph cylinder boring

Boring hundreds of Triumph twin cylinders has given us the experience that other shops may not have. We have prepared many cylinders for street, show, and race winning engines using the Although we occasionally do vintage Harley, BSA, Norton, and other motorcycle cylinders our main focus is...
www.fagengine.com www.fagengine.com
Click to expand...
Jim Comstock, yes, but he generally has no capacity for additional work and is way behind. He would be my first choice if that weren't the case.

F/G clearly states: "Vintage Triumph Engine Specialist" with no mention of Norton, BSA, or others - have you used them for Norton?
 
Yes, have used him for cylinder work.
I believe the Triumph hobby is larger than Norton so he has more than enough to keep busy.
 
elefantrider said:
You should be able to find a 750 barrel on Ebay.
Click to expand...
Fat chance of finding a cylinder barrel which is at STD bore still, with no cracked skirt or broken fins, and which doesn't need a rebore!
Forget it!

However, I discovered this jewel:
www.ebay.com

Norton Commando 750cc Cylinder, 1973 ( 850 casting ), No Broken Fins, 06-3850 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Norton Commando 750cc Cylinder, 1973 ( 850 casting ), No Broken Fins, 06-3850 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

All you need are two pistons of the appropriate size.

- Knut
 
Probably true in Norway but I picked up one here last year. Honed it on the loose side for std size 2618 pistons and "Bob's your uncle".
 
elefantrider said:
Probably true in Norway but I picked up one here last year. Honed it on the loose side for std size 2618 pistons and "Bob's your uncle".
Click to expand...

There's no rule that the OP cannot bore and hone his std. Cylinders to something a few thou. over std., just enough to remove any taper or ovality, then nickel or chrome plate his std.
pistons to fit. After plating, the pistons will have to be ground to size. A lot less expensive than sleeving.

Slick
 
Last edited:
mdt-son said:
Fat chance of finding a cylinder barrel which is at STD bore still, with no cracked skirt or broken fins, and which doesn't need a rebore!
Forget it!

However, I discovered this jewel:
www.ebay.com

Norton Commando 750cc Cylinder, 1973 ( 850 casting ), No Broken Fins, 06-3850 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Norton Commando 750cc Cylinder, 1973 ( 850 casting ), No Broken Fins, 06-3850 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

All you need are two pistons of the appropriate size.

- Knut
Click to expand...
The only reason I haven't already bought that one is that I have a brand new one and have no specific need right now. However, if someone doesn't pull the trigger soon... Let's just say that I know the seller and have bought a lot from him.

I have good luck buying cylinders not needing boring and in the last couple of years that's included one 750 and one 850 in standard size.
 
texasSlick said:
There's no rule that the OP cannot bore and hone his std. Cylinders to something a few thou. over std., just enough to remove any taper or ovality, then nickel or chrome plate his std.
pistons to fit. After plating, the pistons will have to be ground to size. A lot less expensive than sleeving.
Click to expand...
The OP's cylinder appears to be several sizes above STD, maybe it's on its last overbore even.

How well is oil film retention on a nickel-coated piston? Piston rings and skirts reciprocating in a cylinder bore need lubrication. If there is no oil, the aluminium itself will act as lubricant.

In my experience, bonding of nickel to an aluminium substrate is rather poor. Do you have examples proving this method works on a road bike?

- Knut
 
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elefantrider said:
There are still plenty of people who can do it however will cost you about $600. Just be careful who you choose.

You should be able to find a 750 barrel on Ebay.
I would only consider sleeving hard-to-find cylinders like 600/650.

BTW, what exactly is wrong with yours?
Click to expand...
It's still at standard bore but has veritical scoring and marking from rust so I'm not satisfied with the bore. i have a standard NOS set of dished pistons and wanted to use them to reduce vibration
 
marshg246 said:
The only reason I haven't already bought that one is that I have a brand new one and have no specific need right now. However, if someone doesn't pull the trigger soon... Let's just say that I know the seller and have bought a lot from him.

I have good luck buying cylinders not needing boring and in the last couple of years that's included one 750 and one 850 in standard size.
Click to expand...
Greg
explain to me if you would what the the head bolting situation is here. My Atlas head utilizes (4) 5/16 bolts (2) 5/16 studs, (3) 3/8 studs, and (1) 3/8 bolt.
 
jms said:
Greg
explain to me if you would what the the head bolting situation is here. My Atlas head utilizes (4) 5/16 bolts (2) 5/16 studs, (3) 3/8 studs, and (1) 3/8 bolt.
Click to expand...
I’m referring to the barrel for sale on Ebay
 
jms said:
Greg
explain to me if you would what the the head bolting situation is here. My Atlas head utilizes (4) 5/16 bolts (2) 5/16 studs, (3) 3/8 studs, and (1) 3/8 bolt.
Click to expand...
I am NOT an Atlas expert - the only non-Commando Norton I've ever worked on was a 650SS.

AFAIK, the barrels for a 750 Atlas are the same as the 750 Commando and therefore the head bolts on in basically the same way.

1 Front Center Bolt
1 Rear Center Stud screwed into the head pointing downward and secured with a normal looking nut
2 Outside front studs screwed into the head pointing downward with sleeve nuts that screw on from below
2 Front Center studs screwed into the cylinders that point upwards and normal nuts from above
4 Outer bolts down through the head into the cylinders
It takes multiple sizes of "Whitworth" wrenches/sockets. This may help: https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/Info/NortonTorque.aspx
 
Commando 750 barrels use (4) 3/8" bolts next to the spark plugs (2 bolts on each side of the head) instead of the (4) 5/16" bolts. You would have to run a drill large enough to support 3/8" bolts through those 4 holes in your Atlas head and use the appropriate bolts if using Commando 750 barrels.

Point is the Atlas and Commando 750 barrels are not necessarily the same with regard to head bolts. Reason I say not necessarily is I don't know if some very early Commandos used the same barrels.

Barrel through bolts require clean flawless threads in the cases. If your threads don't look close to perfect, you should use helicoils or time-serts in those 4 holes for the barrel through bolts.
 
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Schwany said:
Commando 750 barrels use (4) 3/8" bolts next to the spark plugs (2 bolts on each side of the head) instead of the (4) 5/16" bolts. You would have to run a drill large enough to support 3/8" bolts through those 4 holes in your Atlas head and use the appropriate bolts if using Commando 750 barrels.

Point is the Atlas and Commando 750 barrels are not necessarily the same with regard to head bolts. Reason I say not necessarily is I don't know if some very early Commandos used the same barrels.

Barrel through bolts require clean flawless threads in the cases. If your threads don't look close to perfect, you should use helicoils or time-serts in those 4 holes for the barrel through bolts.
Click to expand...
Good points Schwany! Thanks
 
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