Atlas Clutch Plates to Thick??

I have seen that diagram, but an electronic copy of that manual is a great resource; thanks!

I'm replacing the clutch hub and rubbers while I'm at this, so if there's a problem in there, hopefully it'll be remedied as I get it all back together. That said, I see nothing strange about the clutch hub as it currently sits.
 
texasSlick said:
AgentX said:
Weird. Part 040084 is listed for the G15.
Atlas Clutch Plates to Thick??


Per this conversation, 040084 is longer than older clutch rods and the same length as the Commando. I wonder what gives here.
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Afraid that I cannot add anymore than what I have previously said. I see no reason why the G15 should take a longer pushrod than an Atlas. Maybe someone else can shed more light on this.

I have a Cdo pushrod at my shop, I can make a measurement tomorrow, and you can compare to what you have.

Slick
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The clutch actuating rod shown in this parts book looks to be for the Matchless G15/45 - the one with the Matchless engine.

My later parts manual (1966-68) shows only the 040607 part for all bikes.

The way the Matchless motor lined up with the gearbox was a little different, resulting in a longer pushrod.

If you look at the G15/N15, you'll see the Norton motor is shimmed over to the timing side of the frame and the Matchless gearbox shimmed over to the drive side.

I think the issue with your bike may have been the adjusting nut on the cable screwed down too far, shortening the cable, which would also shorten the screw depth on the pressure plate.

I work back from the pressure plate, making sure there's plenty of thread through that aluminum (one of mine was not adjusted right by a PO and I had to replace that pressure plate for the same reason you've shown). Once the pressure plate is done, I adjust the clutch via the adjuster on the cable at the gearbox outer cover.

My Ranger also has the screw adjuster at the lever, which gives that bike three places to adjust the clutch
 
Ah, I didn't realize the nomenclature issue with the G-15! I've ordered the shorter pushrod, and I think that's got to be the problem here. Wrong part in there now.

In addition, I'm finding this problem exists regardless of cable adjustment, and remains the same with the cable entirely detached, so I don't think the cable is the issue in this particular case.

Thanks for the input--all I know is my Royal Enfield, and the one thing I've learned about older British bikes is that it's a hopeless mess without experienced advice. (See my initial statement...!)
 
The pushrod will probably be silver steel, 6mm diameter. To save yourself money shorten it and learn how to harden the new end.
 
J. M. Leadbeater said:
The pushrod will probably be silver steel, 6mm diameter. To save yourself money shorten it and learn how to harden the new end.
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I actually did that on my Enfield, but circumstances don't allow for it in this case...
 
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