Atlas clutch adjustment

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wjrich

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Oct 7, 2012
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Started my Sunday morning with a couple of seemingly minor maintenance tasks for the bikes- adjust the clutch on the Atlas, search out and cure a minor oil leak on the Commando, etc., but I'm stuck dead on the Atlas clutch.
I slackened the cable and released it from the operating lever, popped the rubber bung off the chaincase, loosened the lock not and prepared to bottom out the screw then back it out as prescribed in the manuals. Problem is that after loosening the locknut, I actually bent a screwdriver trying to turn the screw. Now this is a new one on me, as I've done this to the bike before- screw turned easily, snug up the locknut, done. What is causing this to lock up? Any thoughts on a cure?
Atlas clutch adjustment
 
I have purchased a couple of used pressure plates where the adjuster was frozen , I assumed that it was only from sitting. So there maybe more in this than meets the eye. the fact that the adjuster was free when you last adjusted it and is now frozen leaves me guessing, here is my guesses..not in any order
(1) after time foreign matter gets inside the thread , locking it.
(2) after much use the adjuster imbeds itself (minutely) in the thread of the alloy plate , so when you
try to undo , the adjuster is virtually trying to cross thread.
(3) Tightening of the locknut causes the same scenario as No 2 above
(4) the exposed thread of the adjuster inboard is damaged or contaminated
Personally I dont favor any of the above,
And remember when replying with your suggestions, the adjuster was loose when he last adjusted,
 
Hi Rohan. The adjuster nut was loosened when I tried to turn the screw. I even tried hooking the cable back up to the clutch adjuster in the thought that i might relieve some pressure, but no luck. Last time I was in there to adjust was probably 5-6 months ago, and hadn't been riding the bike due to winter weather.
 
the adjuster is hardened, case hardened I think, they normally have a smooth finish which would not encourage thread binding, I would remove the plate from the clutch and apply some heat to the plate in an attempt to remove the adjuster. maybe there is room for improvement in this area, where have I heard that before?
 
madass140 said:
the adjuster is hardened, case hardened I think, they normally have a smooth finish which would not encourage thread binding, I would remove the plate from the clutch and apply some heat to the plate in an attempt to remove the adjuster. maybe there is room for improvement in this area, where have I heard that before?
Click to expand...

Been a while until I could get back to this- just heated it in the oven at 400 degrees F for 10 minutes- absolutely no way can I turn the adjuster- seems like it is seized in the cover. Any thoughts on next steps?

Atlas clutch adjustment
 
You need a bigger hammer.

(sorry, couldn't help myself).

Sounds like the two parts are seriously galled. My guess is that the threads in the pressure plate will almost certainly be trashed once you manage to separate the two.

Perhaps you can try clamping a section of heavy, soft, thick-walled pipe in a vice (pipe I.D. just larger than the adjuster screw O.D.), set the pressure plate on top of it, and give it a go with an impact driver and a 5# sledge hammer. Have a helper hold the pressure plate with heavy gloves to keep to from turning and put some effort into it, don't be shy.
 
Hi,
If you can find another nut and if there is room use standard method to remove a stud, lock one nut against the other and turn. My guess is the lock nut was over tightened and pulled the thread, a directed blow may move it back.
Any help Craven.
 
Used an impact driver and got it to turn- will add a dab of antiseize on reassembly. One dilemna always leads to another- what's the best way to seal. the chaincase cover? It didn't leak before I took it off, and now that I've reassembled it, it leaks out in about 10 minutes. The rubber gasket looked to be in good condition. Do I need to apply a fair amount of silicone sealer?
 
wjrich said:
...what's the best way to seal. the chaincase cover?
Click to expand...

My understanding of Atlas chaincases is that any attempt to seal them either involves animal sacrifices and fire, or total replacement with all new parts and never applying more torque than the absolute minimum to hold the parts on the bike.
 
grandpaul said:
wjrich said:
...what's the best way to seal. the chaincase cover?
Click to expand...

My understanding of Atlas chaincases is that any attempt to seal them either involves animal sacrifices and fire, or total replacement with all new parts and never applying more torque than the absolute minimum to hold the parts on the bike.
Click to expand...
I can only hope that no animals were sacrificed in that awesome Atlas rebuild you did in the other thread. Seriously, assuming the base rubber gasket is in good shape, do you think copiuos amounts of silicone sealer will do the job?
 
wjrich said:
grandpaul said:
wjrich said:
...what's the best way to seal. the chaincase cover?
Click to expand...

My understanding of Atlas chaincases is that any attempt to seal them either involves animal sacrifices and fire, or total replacement with all new parts and never applying more torque than the absolute minimum to hold the parts on the bike.
Click to expand...
I can only hope that no animals were sacrificed in that awesome Atlas rebuild you did in the other thread. Seriously, assuming the base rubber gasket is in good shape, do you think copiuos amounts of silicone sealer will do the job?
Click to expand...

Don't worry: He's been too chicken to put oil in the chaincase yet, so to date, the animals are safe..... %^) H
 
As a follow-up, I used copious amounts of silicone gasket sealer, let it set for a day. added some oil, and it seems like it worked! I have no idea how I am going to remove the cover when I have to go back in. I think the problem I had the first time is that I added the oil before I gave the silicone a chance to cure. Who knows...
 
apply the silicone to the lower half of the gasket only...allow to dry 24-48 hours before adding automatic transmission fluid, rather than oil. I have found it to be no problem removing the cover when necessary.
 
Applied the silicone all the way around, so cover will never come off again. Put some oil in, and so far, nothing is leaking out...
 
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