Are Resister Plugs required with EI?
- Thread starter 1up3down
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Digital ignition systems (not just Boyer Bransden) typically require 5,000 Ohms resistance, so you need to fit either 5 kOhm plug caps, or use resistor plugs, but not both.
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00032_.pdf
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00032_.pdf
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L.A.B. said:
+1 (as if L.A.B. needed backup)
From the Pazon Altair sheet..."5k suppressor/resistor plug caps (as supplied) should be used with this system. Resistor spark plugs can also be used. Attempting to run the system without any suppressors will result in excessive radio frequency interference (r.f.i.), which may cause misfiring, bad running, loss of ignition and interference with other electronic/electrical items.
For reliability, copper or steel plug wires (h.t. leads) should be used. Carbon fibre plug wires should be avoided.
cyclegeezer
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kevbo82 said:
Yeah, they claim you need the carbon wires AND the resistor plugs, that seems like overkill to me, but it's running just fine set up like that.
I prefer resistor plugs over caps because I've had resistor caps go open short, or infinite resistance twice. Besides, if you want to get a platinum or iridium plug these days then they are all resistor. When these plug failures occurred they took out the dual lead coils I was using leaving me stranded. They were NGK caps, BTW. I don't think you want resistor caps, and plugs, and wires on a Boyer though.
DogT
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I'm using the Pazon SureFire without any resistor plugs and with standard copper wires. All standard stuff. No problems so far. I don't remember they recommended anything in the instructions or I would have. I usually follow instructions, especially if it's expensive.
Dave
69S
Dave
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Guido said:
All Tri-Sparks are digital.
Guido said:
No, the plugs are not wrong, but I take it that resistor caps are fitted?
http://www.trispark.com.au/images/Class ... ooting.pdf
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Just to make it clear that the resistor cap/plug requirement usually applies to DIGITAL ignitions (and Sparx reg/rec units).
Analog/ue systems, such as Boyer Bransden Micro MkIII & IV, Lucas Rita, Pazon Sure-Fire and Sparx do not require resistor plugs or caps although either can be used.
Analog/ue systems, such as Boyer Bransden Micro MkIII & IV, Lucas Rita, Pazon Sure-Fire and Sparx do not require resistor plugs or caps although either can be used.
batrider
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rpatton said:
This is bad news to me. I did some Googling and others have reported problems with the NGK resistor caps going open too. Some shops recommend changing them out every 2 years.
Which ones were you using? Some versions are waterproof. The ones that came with my Pazon Altair (LB05F) are not according to the NGK lit sheet (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/Resistor_Covers.pdf). They do have boots on both ends though. It looks like maybe the problem is a contact problem rather than the resistor blowing open. There is a hokey spring in there which bears against the resistor and makes a pressure contact. I still use the N7Ys and copper core wire (and have a lot of each) so will stick with the NGK caps but will try the waterproof ones (LB05FP) next time. They are $2.95 at motorcycle superstore. At least it is easy to check the caps for a flaky contact. Mine measured 4.69K and 4.79K with solid readings and they are maybe 10 months old. There is not much else out there. Champion makes one (WCX600) but they have problems too.
Was there any warning before the problem occurred like hard starting or popping and banging? How long were they in use before dying?
Russ
Russ,
I can't recall if they were waterproof or not. They had boots but it looks like they all do. There was no wet weather involved, in fact the first time it was over 100F in the Arizona desert.
The first time it happened I broke them apart when I got home and one of them read infinite resistance. The spark didn't break up before it quit. I was running around 4000-5000rpm doing 75-80mph one second and coasting the next. The second time it happened I checked the caps intact and one was a goner. The caps were in use for a few years when they quit. 2-3 years. The reason I didn't drop the NGK resistor caps altogether is that when I brought it up on the BritIron list at the time the consensus was that it was a rare occurrence. This was 15 years ago.
Interesting page on Boyers by John Healy.
http://www.tioc.org/boyer/boyertestnewweb.htm
If you read the part, Securing the Wires, what's a "J Loop" ?
I can't recall if they were waterproof or not. They had boots but it looks like they all do. There was no wet weather involved, in fact the first time it was over 100F in the Arizona desert.
The first time it happened I broke them apart when I got home and one of them read infinite resistance. The spark didn't break up before it quit. I was running around 4000-5000rpm doing 75-80mph one second and coasting the next. The second time it happened I checked the caps intact and one was a goner. The caps were in use for a few years when they quit. 2-3 years. The reason I didn't drop the NGK resistor caps altogether is that when I brought it up on the BritIron list at the time the consensus was that it was a rare occurrence. This was 15 years ago.
Interesting page on Boyers by John Healy.
http://www.tioc.org/boyer/boyertestnewweb.htm
If you read the part, Securing the Wires, what's a "J Loop" ?
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rpatton said:
Just some slack in the cable. The wire bundle coming out of the timing case should be looked at like the left/lower end of the "J". While the right/upper end of the "J" is the wire going up the frame tube. While this is done to cover the vibration travel limits between engine & frame, usually one sees this sort of thing when you want water to not enter a hole - it mostly will drip off the bottom of the "J". So maybe it "kills two birds with one stone".
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