Another fork rework question

This is my first rodeo. Getting the damper upgrade kit today and been thinking about trying to make the oil filling issue easier before starting reassembly. Stanchions still on bike, sliders are off, so if the new bush/seal assemblies from NYC are carefully slid up the stanchions and the lower bushes and then circlips fitted, can the fully assembled damper and spring assemblies be fitted into the sliders, the bottom bolt fitted up into the damper ends, oil then added and the whole thing inserted over the stanchions and up so the bush/seal assembly can be fitted and tightened ??
Top threaded caps would then be screwed down.

It sounds too straightforward, I must be missing the glaring reason that this method won’t work. Not enough capacity to accept the oil??
Comments, reasons invited.
TIA, Steve

I believe you can do it that way but suggest you prime the damper tubes to lower the oil level.

and priming oil is all part of the total volume put in.

@Stevo, interested in hearing how well the Consentino bushing upgrade performs as I'm thinking about the same thing. Plus, what grade oil NYC Norton recommends.

Anyone else seen the AN YouTube video that emphatically states to fill Commando forks with 180cc of whatever oil you like, not 150cc as the book and everywhere else seems to say?

I saw it, Ashley at AN. I recently rebuilt my forks with fork bush kit AN sells and filled them with 150cc of 20w oil per the service manual. They worked better than I expected when the weather was warm but now that the temperature is low 60’s, the suspension is harsh. I just got 15w oil that I plan on trying but failing that, something needs to be done. I’m also considering the Consentino damper kit. The weather/roads in North Georgia are too good to not ride in the Winter.

"180cc"
I thought this was already fairly well known.
Thread from 2006:

So far so good following the method in my first post. Also sprung for the JSM damper upgrade, fitted it all together with springs on the bench and just poured the oil, 180cc Belray 15w into the slider top. Oil level ended up just below the step where the top bush locates and some careful compression of springs helped circulate and lower the level so stanchions could be entered without oil spillage.
Wheel is in, just need to torque spindle nut, fill new AN brake mc, bleed system then a test ride will be in order.
Excited to feel the expected improvements, (here’s hoping!). Will report back with results.

Got the brake filled up and bled and am more chuffed than a very chuffed thing at how straightforward and painless it was after hearing all kinds of nightmare stories about not being able to get a solid lever feel. It really was that simple, slowly sqeezing the lever with the bleed nipple closed to start with, watching the streams of tiny bubbles coming up into the fluid. Then moved on to the usual open, squeeze, close, release, method. Tied the lever back overnight as suggested and jobs a good ‘un. Brake feels 100% better on the road but then it was leaking before, expect more effectiveness when bedded in.
Fork operation seems hugely improved too, as far as a short test run shows, no ott diving on braking with yet to bed in pads, or springing back overly much. Everything feels much more under control, will know more as more miles are covered but safe to say, I’m very satisfied with results so far.
Ommitted to mention, also fitted AN fork gaiters and thanks to all those who helped with info and suggestions. Great forum this.