Amal Retentive

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swooshdave said:
Interesting, as you can see that with the studs on the manifold you can't actually put the carbs on without the spacers. The studs will hit the carbs.

= You could always fit the correct 1.0" length studs :wink:
 
L.A.B. said:
swooshdave said:
Interesting, as you can see that with the studs on the manifold you can't actually put the carbs on without the spacers. The studs will hit the carbs.

= You could always fit the correct 1.0" length studs :wink:

1.5in, dunno why I'm longer. I have a couple sets of manifolds so I'll see what they have.
 
swooshdave said:
Amal Retentive

The adaptor rings appear to be screwed on the wrong way.
And those fuel pipe double banjos are more likely to have come from a Triumph twin.
 
L.A.B. said:
swooshdave said:

The adaptor rings appear to be screwed on the wrong way.
And those fuel pipe double banjos are more likely to have come from a Triumph twin.

I figured once I got the boots I would know if they are wrong. But you know I'd never shy away from asking. :mrgreen:

I have the correct fuel assembly, I'll look at the differences.
 
L.A.B. said:
swooshdave said:
Interesting, as you can see that with the studs on the manifold you can't actually put the carbs on without the spacers. The studs will hit the carbs.

= You could always fit the correct 1.0" length studs :wink:

So, mystery solved. Someone had fit 5/16-18 studs instead of the 5/16 CEI ones. Hey, that sounded like a good idea, so I just trimmed the studs down to the correct length.

Amal Retentive


Amal Retentive

Then the fuel lines. 30 year old fuel lines might as well be made out of metal, I had to grind the plastic away carefully and pry out all the good parts. I prefer Tygon so that's what it will go back together with. Oh, and some filters.
 
swooshdave said:
So, mystery solved. Someone had fit 5/16-18 studs instead of the 5/16 CEI ones.

The Commando manifold studs (060577) and nuts (060348) are 5/16 - 24 UNF.
 
DogT said:
My manifold studs are 5/16-24 UNF.

Dave
69S

So I may have been wrong about the reason for the different studs. If you think about it someone wanted a longer manifold, hence the extra spacers you saw in one of the pictures. Now why someone would want that, I don't know.

I'll still leave the studs in there, I guess, unless it starts to bother me. I have extra studs that should work.
 
swooshdave said:
If you think about it someone wanted a longer manifold, hence the extra spacers you saw in one of the pictures. Now why someone would want that, I don't know.


It is usually done to reduce heat transfer between the head and carbs, as presumably, the spacers are made from some sort of insulating material?

Or the person who did it could have been trying to do some intake length tuning?
 
L.A.B. said:
swooshdave said:
If you think about it someone wanted a longer manifold, hence the extra spacers you saw in one of the pictures. Now why someone would want that, I don't know.


It is usually done to reduce heat transfer between the head and carbs, as presumably, the spacers are made from some sort of insulating material?

Or the person who did it could have been trying to do some intake length tuning?

I'm trying to remember back to my Triumph days, they may be Triumph spacers (but did they ever use 32mm intakes?). But yeah, those were the two thoughts that crossed my mind. Wish I was working on the bike and not hypothesizing about stupid spacers. :mrgreen:
 
swooshdave said:
I'm trying to remember back to my Triumph days, they may be Triumph spacers (but did they ever use 32mm intakes?).


I don't think so? Or at least I can't think of a Triumph/BSA model that carb/s bigger than 30mm?
 
'
I don't think so? Or at least I can't think of a Triumph/BSA model that carb/s bigger than 30mm?

1968 BSA A65 Spitfire MkIV has 32mm Concentrics as does a B50MX.
 
Amal Retentive

Goodies from Amal

Amal Retentive

Always good to have spare Amal parts

Amal Retentive

Should be enough parts to do one carb. The pilot jets are "free" so I ordered them just incase I need to use them.

Amal Retentive

Laying out the parts.

Amal Retentive

Setting up the float level is a breeze with the new adjustable floats. I went for just below the rim with the needle valve closed. Make sure to press on the float tang and not the needle head when checking.

Amal Retentive

All done, more or less. I don't think the banjos will work but I thought I'd try them.

Amal Retentive

I don't think it's actually possible to install the manifolds and then the carbs. No way to tighten the inner nuts.
 
"I don't think it's actually possible to install the manifolds and then the carbs. No way to tighten the inner nuts"
Couldnt agree more but if there is a way I'd love to know.I fitted new Amals a few week ago and wondered the same thing
 
I need to seal up the choke cable holes.

New cables are on the way from Old Britts.

Need to sort out the fuel lines.

Amal Retentive

Correct banjos.

Will pick up a throttle stop thingy today.
 
Hi Dave
You can use these banjos if you want to have the "H" pattern fuel line but here is how I am setting up my bike with the later style and including redundancy with fuel filters as there is filters in petcocks, inline filters and new ones at the metal 180 degree banjos. I believe in the NASA approach to having a backup to the backup. :) I also replaced the float bowl with the later style with the chrome plated bronze drain plugs just because I hate the plastic ones that break.
It makes it easy to change mains for plug chop checks without disassembly of float bowl and to drain fuel out at the end of the year riding. Saves the gaskets.
P.S. you can use an old cable adjuster and fill it with solder or epoxy and then plug your choke holes at the top of the Amals.
Amal Retentive
regards,
CNN
 
speirmoor » "I don't think it's actually possible to install the manifolds and then the carbs. No way to tighten the inner nuts"
Couldnt agree more but if there is a way I'd love to know.I fitted new Amals a few week ago and wondered the same thing

What I do is use allen head bolts instead of studs and a cut short allen wrench to remove-install the carbs and manifolds as a unit.

hobot
 
Yup, use a shortened allen wrench and make sure you tighten everything down firmly and use loctite on the bolts. You run the possibilty of sucking a bolt into the intake manifold, thus into the valve. DAMHIK.
 
Yes it can bite your engine innards, but heck my first Combat ingested a thumb nail size piece of carb slide and ran great for 1000's miles like that till looked in to see all the peckering and Amal reason. I just nip up real hard as don't want to fight the loctite taking back off. Warning experience noted and properly pensive again.
Just don't seem to be any easy shortcuts, labor savers, to keep Commandos intact.

hobot
 
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