Amal every going to get this right

Light throttle second gear uh uh-uh uhhhh uh-uh classic symptom due to the 107 needle jets or even worn 106s. The 105.5 homebrew jets would be perfect. (I just replace my 106s every 4000 miles.)

Russ

Very good Niagara, must always stay suspicious of everything, even new parts.
Wise to stuff along a spare pair of tested plugs as part of tool kit along with wire and tape and zip ties and band aids.
Don't get too relaxed yet even if running fine, REMEMBER if Boyer supplied leads Not Dealt with in comfort of home yet, then it Will Be Dealt With Some Where Else at its own choosing and will feel just like you left the choke on spitting and coughing on sooty back fires till dies. Its lurking. But its such a common Norton experience might as well add that part of Commando lore to your own.

hobot

batrider said:

Light throttle second gear uh uh-uh uhhhh uh-uh classic symptom due to the 107 needle jets or even worn 106s. The 105.5 homebrew jets would be perfect. (I just replace my 106s every 4000 miles.)

Russ

Click to expand...

Exact description of symptom

I had similar issue with Boyer stator plate wires...they look fine, but are fraying within the insulation....I got an excellent wire replacement kit from fellow member Greg Fauth norbsa@hotmail.com for $20. The kit was easy to install, and fixed the problem, and bike has run great since.

I took and look at the Greg Faulth's wire fix and installation instructions from his website. I am not sure if my existing wiring has the bullet connectors to which his kit attaches. Are the bullet connectors behind the plate? (which I haven't pulled yet) I'll shoot him an e-mail anyhow. The bl/w wire looked pinched where it disappears behind the plate. Here is a pic of my setup.


Boyer Ignition by niagaraz, on Flickr

Yes someone did some work for you soldering the bolts on the plate. Take it off and check the soldering work because without the hollow braided wire to form a flexible link it could have broken at the bolts on the back of the plate. I also make new aluminum rotor with better magnets so you can do more preventive maintenance on your machine. I also make dead stop tools so you can check your mark to see how right it is.

NO - YOU ARE NEVER GOING TO GET YOUR AMALS RIGHT. If you do it will only be temporary until they need more work. They will dog you as long as you have them and you will put up with them forever or replace them with something that works so much better you will look back and wonder why you tolerated all that trouble.

When you go to Keihin/PWK flatslides - the problem is solved for a reasonable cost.

visit http://www.jsmotorsport.com

My bike ran like the burning bag on old man Jone's door step, until I sorted out the following three things.
here's my grandfathers recipe... (it's a Sleeman joke)

1. bought a bigger battery - was running a small ups sealed job with my Sparx 3 phase, figured the upgraded alt could supply the small battery, but if the battery was super low (and eventually dying) - it was grumpy, nasty and really really bizarre running/sputtering/backfiring/surging.

2. had one grumpy carb - took months to figure out that the float needle seat was damaged (over zealous adjustment....?) and was flooding.

3. Had the carbs sleeved - can't say enough about this - RUN, don't walk to the post office and get them done. It completely transformed the bike (no offense to the flatslide crowd)

Hope that helps.

For a street bike, IMO properly sorted Amals will deliver everything you could want from Norton Carbs. Remember that all the bitching about Amals is directed at 40 year old carbs that have most likely been mistreated by a variety of owners. Will some Mikuni's (or whatever) be any better when they are 40 years old? Just sort out the Amals and you'll be happy.

If you want to race, I won't argue that flat slides might be better but I found the clattering to be quite annoying.

I 2nd Mikes findings that a pair of Amals can do it all very well. Of course a lot can go wrong with em but listen to the raves of resleeved users. My P!! once started on 1st kick after sitting in a shop 9 months. Left dinner plate soot splashes from my blips on the clean with police bike saddle bags parked behind it. heheh.
Would lug hands off idle in 4th though foot deep dry Fla. sugar sand parting it like boat wake, then with just a smooth twist to WOT would leap into power band, then settle right back to steady kettle drum beats 600 rpm idle.

Its sorta a man hood test to see if you too can be impressed by obsolete 932's or spend for as good or better lasting performance in flat slide adaptations, especially with accelerators pumps. Amal response down low can't top a squirt by a carb pump or extra EFI injection, but close contest otherwise.

its kinda of funny to me I glance at bottoms of carb bowl profiles to see what kind of male hood induction is hung under there.

hobot