Amal carbs and spark plugs issues and concerns

When I first got the bike it shifted like butter. Was so effortless. Surely because the gearbox/transmission was rebuilt. Then I recently put a new kick starter on the bike and may have made my first big blunder. I gently tapped it on with a rubber mallet. Only later did I read not to do this. Afterward, I had a few times when it didn't want to go into first when starting up the bike. Had to kick into second then down to first. It has gotten better but still seems less effortless than before. What I want to hear is that this will continue to work itself out and return to buttery perfection. What I don't want to hear is I damaged the gearbox and the only perfect fix is to take it apart. As always, I welcome any input.
 
Thanks, think I understand it now. There's an aluminum caterpillar looking section that spans an inch and a half or two on the feed line. That must be it. I assumed that might be it but have long learned it's best not to assume anything. And for some reason I was expecting something more complicated.
Here is one example on the Bonneville shop web site...sold for Commando and other bikes:

Amal carbs and spark plugs issues and concerns
 
Get rid of that anti wet sump device, lots of motors been destroyed with that device, lucky my Norton only wet sumps if left sitting for 4 months but if I do that I just drain the sump before I do a startup takes 5 minutes out of my life to do so and I check everything else while its draining.
Putting anything on the oil line is never a good idea.
Best thing is ride the bike regularly, was all good when my Norton was an everyday rider for most of its life with me, but now retired I spend too much time at home.
 
When I first got the bike it shifted like butter. Was so effortless. Surely because the gearbox/transmission was rebuilt. Then I recently put a new kick starter on the bike and may have made my first big blunder. I gently tapped it on with a rubber mallet. Only later did I read not to do this. Afterward, I had a few times when it didn't want to go into first when starting up the bike. Had to kick into second then down to first. It has gotten better but still seems less effortless than before. What I want to hear is that this will continue to work itself out and return to buttery perfection. What I don't want to hear is I damaged the gearbox and the only perfect fix is to take it apart. As always, I welcome any input.
Unlikely. Sounds a bit more like clutch could be dragging a touch.
 
Unlikely. Sounds a bit more like clutch could be dragging a touch.
That's a real possibility. Hope so. It's Barnett. Recently installed. Maybe a fairly reasonable fix or adjustment, or maybe I'm wanting too much perfection. In the meantime, I have no problem riding it as is and enjoying myself immensely. I may take off my kick start along with the wet sump device. Saw a guy who did that and thought, why not.
 
Get rid of that anti wet sump device, lots of motors been destroyed with that device, lucky my Norton only wet sumps if left sitting for 4 months but if I do that I just drain the sump before I do a startup takes 5 minutes out of my life to do so and I check everything else while its draining.
Putting anything on the oil line is never a good idea.
Best thing is ride the bike regularly, was all good when my Norton was an everyday rider for most of its life with me, but now retired I spend too much time at home.
Going to order that Andover magnetic drain plug probably tonight.
 
That's a real possibility. Hope so. It's Barnett. Recently installed. Maybe a fairly reasonable fix or adjustment, or maybe I'm wanting too much perfection. In the meantime, I have no problem riding it as is and enjoying myself immensely. I may take off my kick start along with the wet sump device. Saw a guy who did that and thought, why not.
I'm not familiar with the Mk111 starter. I have a CNW aftermarket starter fitted to my Mk11 850. As I got into my 70s kick starting became more challenging.šŸ˜¢

Back to the Mk 111 starter and removing the kick-start. My understanding is the original factory starter left a lot to be desired and is best described as a starting assist. However there have been upgrades over the years including complete replacements. If you have one of these upgrades then removing the kick start may be viable.

But without the upgrades and a factory starter you would be taking a risk.
 
I'm not familiar with the Mk111 starter. I have a CNW aftermarket starter fitted to my Mk11 850. As I got into my 70s kick starting became more challenging.šŸ˜¢

Back to the Mk 111 starter and removing the kick-start. My understanding is the original factory starter left a lot to be desired and is best described as a starting assist. However there have been upgrades over the years including complete replacements. If you have one of these upgrades then removing the kick start may be viable.

But without the upgrades and a factory starter you would be taking a risk.
Yeah, I have an upgrade and it works quite well. At least so far. Very strong, easy to turn over.
 
If it pops on the overrun, like during engine braking, the throttle is shut so it is running on the idle circuit. Try marking, then turning the air screws in a 1/4 turn and see if things improve. It will start doing the same thing if an idle jet fuel passageway starts to get blocked.
(Just my opinion - you don't need the gantry.)
Russ
 
If it pops on the overrun, like during engine braking, the throttle is shut so it is running on the idle circuit. Try marking, then turning the air screws in a 1/4 turn and see if things improve. It will start doing the same thing if an idle jet fuel passageway starts to get blocked.
(Just my opinion - you don't need the gantry.)
Russ
Thanks, I'll try it. Once upon a time I was able to dial my Mikunis in to solve such issues. I'm sorta surprised it wasn't mentioned earlier.

If the idle jet fuel passageway is getting blocked, a simple clean out process should solve that, no?
 
Did you modify those crankcases for rubber mounting ? My mate did that for several people. The bikes always seem to be slower when the motor is rubber mounted. It might be just perception.
Yes, with reduced power, hopefully it won't throw me down the road.
 
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