Alternator woodruff key

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What height is the woodruff key used to secure the alternator rotor on the crankshaft? I have bought two, one from Norvil and the other from Andover Norton and both are 1/4" tall but the keyways in the rotor and the crankshaft are only 1/16" deep each (total 1/8") so no way is the rotor going to fit on the shaft over the key. The part number I ordered both times was 065718. Is that the right number?

Alternator woodruff key
 
A replacement Norton part that doesn't fit? I'm shocked!

OK, seriously, it would be easy enough to just use a grinder/whatever to achieve the necessary fit. I'd do that before fooling with trying to order another one. Also, many hardware stores have a selection of keys. Checking there is the first thing I'd probably do, followed by grinding/filing the one you have.
 
I got one from CarQuest (an auto parts store). They had a selection and had one that fit. It can't be an unusual size.
 
Yes, but I'm miffed now that I've paid for it (and hardware stores over here are not like they are in the states!). Just wondering if I ordered the wrong part before I ring AN tomorrow.
 
I can understand you're being miffed but to be honest, I find that at least 1/3 of the new parts don't fit right without some sort of fettling - though any original parts from back in the day fit just fine.

However, the part number that my Norton parts manual shows for the alternator rotor key is: NM 20948. Old Britts shows the same part number so maybe you ordered the wrong one.
 
Hi
just put it in the vice and file it down until it fit's snuggly, its no big deal.
I guess some rotor's have deeper slots.
Cheers
JohnT
 
However, the part number that my Norton parts manual shows for the alternator rotor key is: NM 20948. Old Britts shows the same part number so maybe you ordered the wrong one.

Yes that's the item number AN use for that part number, so I did order correctly then. Cheers.
 
I'd think that being too tall is the lesser of two weevils.

Russ
 
Ha Ha , I've had them not fit too. Fettling for sure. The real problem is getting them OUT when need be as you have driven them in even tighter upon instalation. A pal told me the only way to get those buggers out is to purchase a pair of big expensive wire cutters then grip with all your strength biting in then lever/wiggle the puppy out , then toss it. O.K.
 
Torontonian said:
Ha Ha , I've had them not fit too. Fettling for sure. The real problem is getting them OUT when need be as you have driven them in even tighter upon instalation. A pal told me the only way to get those buggers out is to purchase a pair of big expensive wire cutters then grip with all your strength biting in then lever/wiggle the puppy out , then toss it. O.K.

Why not just rub it gently on some 800 grit paper until it is a nice sliding fit, RATHER THAN HAMMERING IT IN! :shock:
JohnT
 
One of the first tools a machinist will master is the mill file and is generally the last tools he will use.
 
I've never "hammered one in". I've had the ROTOR self-hammer it in for me. Lucas. Genuine Norton again.
 
Torontonian said:
I've never "hammered one in". I've had the ROTOR self-hammer it in for me. Lucas. Genuine Norton again.

Well tighten the nut properly, then it won't hammer the woodruff key :D
JohnT
 
pvisseriii said:
One of the first tools a machinist will master is the mill file and is generally the last tools he will use.

Hi
and for us English cousins, what's a mill file (a hammer?)
JohnT
 
Alan W said:
the keyways in the rotor and the crankshaft are only 1/16" deep each (total 1/8") so no way is the rotor going to fit on the shaft over the key.

A rotor keyway only 1/16" deep in the crankshaft doesn't sound quite right somehow?
Alternator woodruff key


Can you be certain there isn't a piece of old Woodruff key still in there?

What does the key that you removed look like (photo?)?

Or wasn't there any Woodruff key?
 
The drive sprocket has 1/4-inch key but I was wondering about the rotor. I thought it was supposed to be 1/8-inch? Just checkin.

Russ
 
Postby Torontonian » Thu Apr 25, 2013 1:36 pm
Ha Ha , I've had them not fit too. Fettling for sure. The real problem is getting them OUT when need be as you have driven them in even tighter upon instalation. A pal told me the only way to get those buggers out is to purchase a pair of big expensive wire cutters then grip with all your strength biting in then lever/wiggle the puppy out , then toss it. O.K.

Spoken=written by a real Nortoneer that's run into others wham bamming a key into service, or one some loose it hammered itself to fit-fuse, so please with hold the jumping to conclusions the current owner is at fault as should thank him for insights to get past that hang up. Pre-Peel was blacksmithed fused to crank and took a good chisel to break it up when the bolt cutters just fractured top off leaving... IIRC was one of my blank Brit Iron staring moments that may have tools thrown and running out in to the dark in a tantrum like an infant or just another imagined night mare on way to my mechanic maturity.


The key way is only a locator for timing anyway its the tapper clamp force that does the deed so just needs to fit snug enough to locate.
 
Torontonian said:
The woodruff key is a semi circle like all woodruff keys you remove tight ones by tapping either end of the key it will see saw out or at least you can get one half up enough to remove with pliers . If you look at LAB'S photo you see the cross section half round slot . Get my drift so to speak .






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