Alternator stator

Hi all,

I'm restoring a '74 Commando, originally a basket case with several pieces missing. I'm in need of an alternator stator and was wondering what my options are: do I stick with the Norton or should I try the Sparxor other makes? If I want a higher output alternator, what are my options and would I have to purchase a new rotor, also?

TIA for your collective wisdom,

Paul.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-OUTPUT-STATO ... 1e65863b00

The rotor can be re-magnetized if necessary for about $50 as I remember.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-OUTPUT-STATOR-TRIUMPH-BSA-NORTON-BRITISH-MOTORCYCLE-/130552314624?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e65863b00

Click to expand...

Hi-output? They're having a laugh. "10A" is no higher than a standard RM21.

16A
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/47205-16-TRIU ... 0750955536


http://www.oldbritts.com/11_068100.html

Personally, I would go with a new rotor if you have the cash.
The old one will have lost some of it's magnetisim over the last 37 years and the center can sometimes become loose.
I have a cheap Wassel (I think) rotor and stator fitted to my T120 and it's been great over the last 2 years, I've not had to touch the battery, although it only just puts out enough charge for the lights, I have no turn signals fitted.
As for the high output stator, I think it's a good idea especially if you're running turn signals and have obligatory daytime driving lights in your part of the world.

All the best

Webby

DogT said:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-OUTPUT-STATOR-TRIUMPH-BSA-NORTON-BRITISH-MOTORCYCLE-/130552314624?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e65863b00

The rotor can be re-magnetized if necessary for about $50 as I remember.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

I have sent ebay messages to these people in the past with no response. Be careful.

As LAB has stated, look for the 16amp unit. Paired up with a Podtronics 200 watt reg/rec (best price anywhere http://www.oldbritts.com/17_17106.html)along with a 14ah battery and you will be good to go. I think the 14ah battery is very important. From my experience, anything less or more will stress the Pods unit. In my opinion this is the best setup for non electric start systems. Go ahead and run your lights on all the time knowing that the 14ah battery will run them and the hi-output stator and reg/rec will keep it that way. E-starts people may want to go with the 3 phase.

Yeah, I was looking at the wrong one. In a hurry as usual. There is a 16 amp one out there somewhere.

Dave
69S

If you want to build this bike to ride and you want to ride at night I suggest you get a three phase stator. They are rated at 250 watts. They make power at much lower RPM than the single phase units. I have not tried the Sparx one, I have a few of the Lucas ones. They must be similar. The Lucas one would start charging the battery at 2500 RPMs even with a 55 watt headlight. With the original 180W single phase alternator, you have to limit the headlight to 35 watts or your battery will be discharging all the time when the headlight is on. I don't think the 190 watt single phase would be much better.

Best up grade is the 3 phase 200-ish watt version as stated make more power down low where the real charging issues occur but even so it will not charge below 1600-1800 rpm with hi beam on. Signals are not an issue as only intermittent though me an others have had battery get so low that the brake light coming off put out the fire. I've a Sparx 3 phase with good strong rotor I'll never use again, one because Ms Peel the ran it for a few years won't need it and two because its not from the Norton Good Book for Trixie Combat. Its been though Hell and few times and looks it and is damaged by abrasions and melt inside the stator but still kicked watts out good as new. Do ya know how fast rpm it takes to sling the rotor into the stator when all centered at rest? i sold off the Podtronics 200 watt reg/rect to a needy soul though.

Thank you all for your kind replies.

As I understand it, I cannot use the 3-phase upgrade with the Tympanium regulator/rectifier - is that correct? If so, I guess my best bet (since I've already purchased and installed a Tympanium) is to go with the single-phase Lucas 180 watt alternator - does everyone agree?

Paul

Yes I did my 2nd Combat like that. Lucas factory 120 watt single phase with the plain jane potted Tympanium. Works fine with standard size battery which if key left on charges back up in a few miles to start w/o help the next time. Electro brain ignitions can go bunkers and stall if not reved enough to keep voltage up when battery is low, such as long sitting at lights. Keep the blue can capcatior in circuit with battery to help smooth the impluses and help a low or no battery. I mounted Tymphanium [funny name like temper tantrum] on Al added vertical plate at the oil tank side on back of the battery box.

tricatcent said:

If you want to build this bike to ride and you want to ride at night I suggest you get a three phase stator. They are rated at 250 watts. They make power at much lower RPM than the single phase units. I have not tried the Sparx one, I have a few of the Lucas ones. They must be similar. The Lucas one would start charging the battery at 2500 RPMs even with a 55 watt headlight. With the original 180W single phase alternator, you have to limit the headlight to 35 watts or your battery will be discharging all the time when the headlight is on. I don't think the 190 watt single phase would be much better.

Click to expand...

hmm, not my experience, have been running a 55W H4 with a stock 120W alternator for over a year and have not had any charging problems in mixed city and rural riding....have read of H4 battery discharge problems in extended city/stop and go riding though. Had thought I'd have to upgrade my charging system when I upgraded from the stock Lucas 45W bulb to H4 55W so it might be worth trying single phase w/ H4 for awhile before spending the $$$ changing to three phase. FWIW H4 bulbs are available in 45 and even 35W versions, scooters use them...used a 45W version for awhile and then went to a standard 55W
(and yes, single phase and three phase rectifier/regulator units are different)