Alloy Mk3 Dash

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Dec 1, 2006
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I remember someone asking if anyone had an alternative to the standard Mk3 dash.
If someone could send me detailed instructions on how to put up a photo I will put up some pics of the aluminium one I have had NC cut.
I drew the parts in a CAD program and got them cut on an NC router at my aluminium supplier's. I am happy to post the .dxf file for anyone. A small offcut of 3mm 5083 (5086 in the US) plate can be had for next to nothing.
If anyone can send me an accurate tracing of the adapter plate for the AP Lockheed caliper I would be happy to sort out a .dxf file for it also.
I have the detailed installation drawing for the caliper and it appears you could simply cut it from 12.7mm (1/2") plate. Even if there are some thickness differences you can cut it on a router with a two pass file.
These routers when operated well can do almost mill type work.
shedweller said:
If someone could send me detailed instructions on how to put up a photo I will put up some pics of the aluminium one I have had NC cut.

You would need to open an account with a photo hosting website (I like Photobucket: it is free for the basic service and easy to use) and then upload your photos to your new Photobucket album, preferably at the 640 x 480 "message board" image size (see "Options" in Photobucket) to show them here.

How to insert a photo or photos directly into a message from your Photobucket album

Select the photo by clicking on the individual photo 'Img Code' line (it will highlight and say = 'Copied'), then use paste (right click>paste) to place it into your message, avoid pasting the Img code directly into the text of your message = use a new line, and there's no need to add extra 'Img /Img' tags, as they are already included in the Photobucket Img code.

Repeat for each photo using the photo's own Img Code line, do not copy anything from the main page address box .

Finally...please use the 'Preview' button to check the photos show correctly in your message before posting.

Don't worry if you get it wrong though, as we can generally figure out where the problem is, or call up if you get stuck?
I was the guy asking about dash alternatives not too long ago. I still havn't come up with anything yet.

I sell aluminum for a living so I have access to a lot of free bits here and there, mostly out of 6061-T6.

I'd like to see your part drawing. There are two lasers here at work so slapping your dimensions into the computer would be pretty easy. I could cut one or one hundered.

How are you mounting the dash? I was going to get a few tabs bent down off the dash plate so I could use the stock dash mounting tabs on the top fork yoke of a MKIII. You attaching yours to the handlebar clamp bolts?
Happy new yr guys!
Sorry it has taken a while to get back but I have been pre-occupied.
Below are photos and a jpg of the part dwg for the dash.
Reminds me to get rid of the crimped spades!
I used 5083-H116 plate - 3mm and cut with a NC router. Laser should be OK on 3mm. 6061 is a little harder and less plastic but should be OK.
Angle on upper rear corner of wrap-around side is to make face parallel to faces of clocks.
All "corner to corner welds" (TIG or careful "cold" MIG), clean up with radius bit in a little Makita laminate trimmer to get a perfect even corner and polish.
Warning lights I used are Narva LEDs - diam 14mm. Holes would need to be changed to suit other lights. I would be happy ot post a few versions with different hole sizes if necessary.
A word of warning about LEDs - I outsmarted myself there! Being diodes they only work with curent one way so the indicator amber lamp only works when turning one direction!!

BTW, thanks for the succinct inst'ns on how to post photos LAB. Despite using computers to make a living I am pretty dumb when it comes to web stuff. SB

Alloy Mk3 Dash

Alloy Mk3 Dash

Alloy Mk3 Dash

Alloy Mk3 Dash
I like the design. Nice and simple. I can't weld nor have access to an AL TIG welder but a friend does so no problem there. I also have a buch of 5052 aluminum here in sheet form. I'll probably use some of that instead of the 6061.

Looks good!

I might need more specific measurements to get it into the CAD program for being cut on the laser.
Either let me know what diam holes you want for the switch (std now) and lights and I'll change them, or you can get someone to change them at your end.
Either way let me know an email address and I'll send you the .dxf file of the parts. you will find that any NC software will have a facility to read and convert a dxf into its own native cuting code. Many laser machines cut straight from a dxf file.
Any ally welder should be able to fabricate it. The trick is to use the trimmer to clean up the corners so you have a perfectly uniform edge.
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