Air inlet on TLs brake on commando

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Hi can any one tell me how come I have a blanking plate behind wire filter on both in and out ( scoop and 3 round holes) I live in UK and will only ride bike in summer. So will it be best to remove or keep as found,( looks like fitted in from factory). Many thanks. John
 
John leathers said:
( looks like fitted in from factory).

Yes, so you have the option to remove one or both blanking plates for better brake cooling but then run the risk of water getting to the brake linings in wet weather, and as you probably know, riding in the UK in summer is no guarantee you won't get caught in the rain. :wink:
 
I highly doubt that removing the blanking plates will made any difference at all in braking performance in normal street riding.
The brake just isn't getting hot enough to benefit, and the airflow through the brake is a trickle due to the screen still blocking 50% of the openings.
Plus the brake is now going to inhale all sorts of road grime which will get into your freshly greased pivots of the brake shoes.
Racing on a clean dry track might be different story but I sort of doubt that too. I bet most of the heat dissipates off the outside of the hub via airflow.

Having said that I'll confess to removing these blanking plates from my `71 Roadster.
...and installed a stiffening kit,
...and Ferodo shoes,
...and centralized the shoes,
...and fiddled endlessly with the link rod
...and matched the shoes to the drum
and the brake still sucked.
 
Fit a disc. The best place for the blanking plate & mesh screen is the scrap bin, along with the rest of the brake, if you can call it that. Like Mark I did all the above, including machining the drum & the linings to suit. Still garbage.
 
I arched my TLS shoes and now it's acceptable. Didn't used to be. It's all in the setup, it's a bit finicky.
 
Timely, I've been considering going back to the original TLS setup on my 71 (have a well sorted stock lockheed setup now), only because I love the look of the drum. That said, the norton drum, even with stiffening kit... is shiite. Not able to afford the $$$$ on a ceriani kit, I'm seriously looking at the triumph TLS (T120, not the conical) as a well sorted stopper, and I'm wondering if there's a way to retrofit this unit to the commando.

Air inlet on TLs brake on commando
 
acadian said:
Timely, I've been considering going back to the original TLS setup on my 71 (have a well sorted stock lockheed setup now), only because I love the look of the drum. That said, the norton drum, even with stiffening kit... is shiite. Not able to afford the $$$$ on a ceriani kit, I'm seriously looking at the triumph TLS (T120, not the conical) as a well sorted stopper, and I'm wondering if there's a way to retrofit this unit to the commando.

Air inlet on TLs brake on commando

I am not 100% sure, but I think Paul Dunstall modified the Triumph TLS to fit Atlas and Dominators. Therefore it should be do- able to fit to a Cdo.

I have a Dunstall on my Atlas and it is a good stopper. I do not think a disc could be any better for a one time panic stop. The inside of the Dunstall brake plate is very different from a Triumph and uses brake shoes resembling more the Norton type TLS. Mine is pictured below.

Air inlet on TLs brake on commando


In keeping with the original post, the blanking plate would be removed by a racer for use on a track. For street use, the blanking plate should be retained to keep out water and dirt as others have said.

Slick
 
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All I can say is the TLS on my bike was crap, I almost might as well drag my feet or plan about 3 miles ahead of a stop. But when I rebuilt the bike in 08-10, I arched the shoes with #60 sandpaper glued to the drum and went from about 10% contact to over 90% contact. I didn't get the stiffening plate mod, but I did center the drum by tightening the brake while tightening the axle and I did use the high friction shoes from RGM. I also set up the adjuster so both shoes contact exactly at the same time. It was like night and day. I can haul myself down from 60 mph perfectly acceptably now. It won't do it time after time, it needs to cool off but the way I drive I find it just fine. If you're going to race that's another story. I also wanted to stay somewhat stock looking.
 
My TLS works very well (stiffener kit installed) but what really causes problems is water. In the rain it'll lock-up at slow speeds. Not fun. I may take some silicone to the air inlets to seal 'em up more. Anything to keep the water out.
 
Acadian,

I fitted the Triumph brake plate (68-70) to my 650ss back in the early eighties & can still remember how good it was. It will fit the Commando with little problem. Much later on I had one on a 1969 T150 & although still a good brake, it struggled with the weight of the bike. Ultimately, although pretty, drums will never be as good as a good disc setup.

Martyn.
 
My 68 P!! racer vented drum worked darn well dry but not when wet about same time rear drum wet too so bad juju for a bit of labor saving extra cooling racer reserves in public surprises. Similar to rim locks may only appreciate it once. My buddy Wes did a water crossing almost washed off but made it for stress relief not carried off in current then climbed the steep up away from the creek to head slowly back down towards a sharp bend to have no brakes at all too fast to turn so barely missed end of barbed wire fence flying straight off the turn edge caught by bushes this time. Cyclers are all risk takers so carry on.
 
All I can say is the TLS on my bike was crap, I almost might as well drag my feet or plan about 3 miles ahead of a stop. But when I rebuilt the bike in 08-10, I arched the shoes with #60 sandpaper glued to the drum and went from about 10% contact to over 90% contact. I didn't get the stiffening plate mod, but I did center the drum by tightening the brake while tightening the axle and I did use the high friction shoes from RGM. I also set up the adjuster so both shoes contact exactly at the same time. It was like night and day. I can haul myself down from 60 mph perfectly acceptably now. It won't do it time after time, it needs to cool off but the way I drive I find it just fine. If you're going to race that's another story. I also wanted to stay somewhat stock looking.
DogT
Hi
I also have 70 (roadster). Could you let me know how you adjusted the Link rod?
Thanks for your advise, I cant find a post on the subject.
Bob
 
Instructions are about half way down this post. post1656.html?hilit=%20#p1656 But you have to do the whole thing about sanding the shoes and all, it all adds up. It's still not a good disk brake, but acceptable for not racing and casual riding. Good luck. These bikes are a work in progress as you know. It also helps to get rid of that 'rubber' light switch in the cable, which I still haven't done. I also did this with no helper, you can do it, it just takes longer. I think I worked on the brake about a day and a half, but it was well worth it and I haven't had to mess with it again, but I don't ride all that much anymore.
 
I like the TLS brakes on my Interceptor and 68 Nort. They will squeal the front tire if you want. No hydraulics to mess with. Once set up they stay that way, on a classic . Please don't compare them to good brakes from the 80s +. But the 69 CB750 single disc was horrible, ,and they will easily compare to them on the street . Racing is another matter.
 
Hi
For many years I have been running a Commando with a TLS front brake which has never worked well. I guessed it was due
to the brake light switch in the cable so I engineered a switch to fit my rear sets. Last week end I changed the front cable
with the switch in it for a cable without.......fantastically better.
 
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