- Joined
- Jan 1, 2014
- Messages
- 13
If you have a pre 1971 Commando Fastback or Dominator and would like to how to apply the small brass roadholder badges then this should be useful. I had a few goes at this and found a method that worked. It does take a little practice so having a spare set of badges is not a bad idea.
First peel the plastic protective cover from around the two holes. Solder the brass rivets into position by inserting into the hole, flipping upside down and applying solder around the rivet. Thankfully solder sticks really well to brass so this should be easy.
Use a dremel tool to cut the rivet stem off as close to badge as possible and then grind the solder down to nothing and you are starting to grind the badge. The rivets should stay in by the small amount of solder that is left. Use some emory paper to make sure everything is smooth and flat on the back of the badge.
Form the badge to the correct shape by bend it squarely over a cylinder of the right size. I started with a 1&1/2" socket and finished with 1&1/16" socket. It is very important that the badge is square to the tube or socket as you bend it as the badge is useless once its bent out of shape.
Offer it up to the fork shround and it will probably be the right shape except for the ends of the badge which will be sticking out a bit. Get the ends of the badge to follow the curve of the rest of the badge by bending the ends of the badge lightly over a smaller diameter tube. Be careful and keep offering up the badge to the fork shroud.
Once the badge sits nicely and completely flat on the fork shroud peel the rest of the protective plastic off and glue it in position. In terms of adhesive, I used clear silicone calking which is safe on powdercoat and is easy to remove the excess.
First peel the plastic protective cover from around the two holes. Solder the brass rivets into position by inserting into the hole, flipping upside down and applying solder around the rivet. Thankfully solder sticks really well to brass so this should be easy.
Use a dremel tool to cut the rivet stem off as close to badge as possible and then grind the solder down to nothing and you are starting to grind the badge. The rivets should stay in by the small amount of solder that is left. Use some emory paper to make sure everything is smooth and flat on the back of the badge.
Form the badge to the correct shape by bend it squarely over a cylinder of the right size. I started with a 1&1/2" socket and finished with 1&1/16" socket. It is very important that the badge is square to the tube or socket as you bend it as the badge is useless once its bent out of shape.
Offer it up to the fork shround and it will probably be the right shape except for the ends of the badge which will be sticking out a bit. Get the ends of the badge to follow the curve of the rest of the badge by bending the ends of the badge lightly over a smaller diameter tube. Be careful and keep offering up the badge to the fork shroud.
Once the badge sits nicely and completely flat on the fork shroud peel the rest of the protective plastic off and glue it in position. In terms of adhesive, I used clear silicone calking which is safe on powdercoat and is easy to remove the excess.