advise are they worth having?

I am restoring a 1971 Norton S/S and wondering if the following are worth doing.

A special seal at end of the control rod from clutch and the transmission?
They sell a set up for the top transmission bolt that has two adjusters instead of one?
I have the original tail light fiberglass and I have a BSA one exactly the same only metal.Should I change?
I purchased a anti sump valve and a oil filter how should I hook it up?
Who does the best job at rebuilding the carbs?


Greg Roberts robertsfive@shaw.ca

I don't know bout the clutch pushrods seal but the gearbox alignment. Set up is a good investment from what I have heard. I run a belt drive with out one and it seems ok but I will one day buy the twin bolt adjuster.
The oil filter mod is good and worth fitting but throw away the anti wet sumping valve. If it fails your engine gets no oil. If you have a wet sumping problem there are other solutions like service your oil pump or do as I do and ride your bike to work everyday!
I recently let mine sit for 2 months after going overseas. Started straight up and no wetsump issue. If it has to sit for long periods, and it wet sumps badly then just drop the oil from the cases and pop it back in the oil tank.

roberts1948 said:

I am restoring a 1971 Norton S/S and wondering if the following are worth doing.

A special seal at end of the control rod from clutch and the transmission?
They sell a set up for the top transmission bolt that has two adjusters instead of one?
I have the original tail light fiberglass and I have a BSA one exactly the same only metal.Should I change?
I purchased a anti sump valve and a oil filter how should I hook it up?
Who does the best job at rebuilding the carbs?


Greg Roberts robertsfive@shaw.ca

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1. A lot of people like the pushrod seal when they have their clutch plate get oil on them. I have never had this issue when I had a chain primary. If you need one get one. If not, don't. They can be a bitch to fit and bring on other issues with the clutch in general.

2. The dual adjuster for the gearbox is for when you have a belt drive and you need to fine tune the alignment for belt run out.

3. Oil filter is good but does need to be fitted on the cradle just right and requires drilling a couple holes. Dry fit everything in place before drilling. No big whoop, not that hard, just take your time.
The anti sump valve should be researched before committing to its function.

4. As far as the carb go, you should get up close and personal to them and learn and master the Amals. They are not complicated and are as basic yet a functional carb as you will find. If you don't will always and often have to rely on other to get you going. If you are somewhat novice, consider a different setup like a single Mikuni or at least new carbs.

I am not sure just where you came up with this load of manure. the clutch will get contaminated with GEAR OIL whether it is a dry belt or wet chain, just give it time and you will learn this to. as to being a bitch to fit and cause other issues" BOLLOCKS".

pvisseriii said:

1. A lot of people like the pushrod seal when they have their clutch plate get oil on them. I have never had this issue when I had a chain primary. If you need one get one. If not, don't. They can be a bitch to fit and bring on other issues with the clutch in general.

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bill said:

I am not sure just where you came up with this load of manure. the clutch will get contaminated with GEAR OIL whether it is a dry belt or wet chain, just give it time and you will learn this to. as to being a bitch to fit and cause other issues" BOLLOCKS".

pvisseriii said:

1. A lot of people like the pushrod seal when they have their clutch plate get oil on them. I have never had this issue when I had a chain primary. If you need one get one. If not, don't. They can be a bitch to fit and bring on other issues with the clutch in general.

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You are wrong Bill. It's not as absolute as you suggest.
Because you seem to be a good example of those that are afflicted, I am interested to hear your explanation of how gear oil get to your clutch plate. Yes, this is a setup for further responce. They can be a bitch to fit with shimming and clearence as issues. On many the pushrod will not protrude enough to actuate the clutch. If yours was a plug and play situation, great. Your success in this matter is not always the case.

roberts1948 said:

oil filter how should I hook it up?

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http://www.oldbritts.com/oillines.html

http://www.oldbritts.com/filter_mount.html

http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/techtalk13.htm

OK genius tell us just where this oil came from. this is one I redid from another forum member's rebuild and it had less than 500 miles on it.

pvisseriii said:

You are wrong Bill. It's not absolute as you suggest.
Because you seem to be a good example of those that are afflicted, I am interested to hear your explanation of how gear oil get to your clutch plate. Yes, this is a setup for further responce.

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Hello roberts 1948. This site is a great reference for leaping your new bike ready to ride. Please ignore the apparent animosity. We are always here to help you out. There are obviously different opinions about clutch seals, oil check valves and such. you get to sort it out after the smoke clears.
Good luck

Yes Mikie's right, i used this site to leap my bike recent - i had a cape on and had everyone to call me Evil :mrgreen:

mikie3117 said:

Hello roberts 1948. This site is a great reference for leaping your new bike ready to ride. Please ignore the apparent animosity. We are always here to help you out. There are obviously different opinions about clutch seals, oil check valves and such. you get to sort it out after the smoke clears.
Good luck

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bill said:

OK genius tell us just where this oil came from. this is one I redid from another forum member's rebuild and it had less than 500 miles on it.

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I would say from an overfilled gearbox. Mine is dry and as you say, makes no difference if chain or belt. I use the oil fill level screw on the back of the gearbox at about 8 oclock. rather than the pushrod hole.

Sorry about this light banter Greg. All part of the fun.
I stand by my earlier comment.
Some need the pushrod seal (like Bill), some do not (like me). If you want to put one on to cover the odds, I will be the last to condemn you and if you don't put one on, bill will be the first.

nope
gearbox was not overfilled. here is a little hint. as the gears rotate in mesh it moves oil, as it reaches where the teeth mesh it is pushed out from between the teeth. guess where it goes from there.
I will not condemn him for not using one but just have an I told you so when he asks why his clutch is slipping or dragging from the gear oil on it :lol:

pvisseriii said:

I would say from an overfilled gearbox. Mine is dry and as you say, makes no difference if chain or belt. I use the oil fill level screw on the back of the gearbox at about 8 oclock. rather than the pushrod hole.

I will be the last to condemn you and if you don't put one on, bill will be the first.

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The carbs are original and need to be cleaned and resleaved.I had the carbs on my other Norton done by a shop in Toronto but they closed.After I get them I am OK to put them together.I guess I will sell my new antisump valve I do not want to run my new motor dry.

Greg

Back in 98 (the last time I had my clutch / gearbox apart), I seriously considered getting something like DynoDave's Pushrod seal as "extra insurance".
However, Since it has never been an issue before, I opted against putting one in.

I've never had a problem with gear lube contaminating my plates and making them stick together.
Lucky? maybe.......
I know That I have always ran my 80/90 at a little lower level than the "fill it until it runs out if the inspection hole" level.
That may possibly have something to do with it but I'm not 100% sure.

I think that it good to know that the fix is available should I ever need it,
But.......
it ain't broke so I ain't going to start looking for trouble by "making it better".

bill said:

nope
. as the gears rotate in mesh it moves oil, as it reaches where the teeth mesh it is pushed out from between the teeth. guess where it goes from there?

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I give up, where? In the pushrod tunnel? I don't think there is any other source. But then again, there aren't any gears turning with in the outer cover that I know of.
Quit asking question and reveal your wisdom. Do you believe this is some remnant arbitrary flow that splashes up and flows across the pushrod tunnel? Or is there a magic orifice in the mainshaft the sucks up oil when squirted out between the gears when meshing? Please tell us so we can stop this needless affliction of which sooner or later will stop us all whether we like (know) it or not.

roberts1948 said:

Who does the best job at rebuilding the carbs?


Greg Roberts robertsfive@shaw.ca

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Just buy the new premiers if you want to run amals. They are cheap enough and will save a lot of mucking around.

bill said:

OK genius tell us just where this oil came from. this is one I redid from another forum member's rebuild and it had less than 500 miles on it.

pvisseriii said:

You are wrong Bill. It's not absolute as you suggest.
Because you seem to be a good example of those that are afflicted, I am interested to hear your explanation of how gear oil get to your clutch plate. Yes, this is a setup for further responce.

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Click to expand...

I've never had clutch plate contamination from gear oil and I don't run a seal. I have had chain primary and now maney belt so as stated, it don't matter belt or chain. I'm sure I'm not the only norton owner who has no issues with clutch contamination.

Just to throw some more crap on the pile.

Nothing wrong with an anti-sump valve if used right, install in the feed line from the oil tank if desired and use a ignition cut off switch. It really only stops leaking from the engine cases in my case, does nothing else except I know how much oil is in the tank when I start up and the engine sump is not full of oil, instead of waiting until the oil returns from the sump. For me it's worth not having oil on the bottom of the engine all the time, but that may also be cured by good crank case sealing. Up to you. Personally I like it and since mine won't start without turning it on, it's not a problem for me. IJ has a nice one for $, or you can make one, look it up on the forum. Actually I'm making one with a magnetic switch on the valve and a 40A relay to shut off the ignition.

I installed the DynoDave seal, and it was a real bitch. I had to remove All the washers from under the clutch nut in order to get enough op rod to operate the clutch. Everything on my clutch is in measurement spec. Then I cleaned off the clutch plates and fiber disks and now I have a real grabby clutch. I'm almost tempted to go back to my Norton spec clutch which seemed to always have a bit of oil on the plates and it worked fine. I use engine oil in my primary, per the 60/70 Riders Handbook. YMMV.

Dave
69S

" They sell a set up for the top transmission bolt that has two adjusters instead of one? "

A C T U A L L Y . . . . These are fitted to high class machines , like Pre Unit Bonnevilles . Where awsome power wrenches loose more mundane fastenings . :lol:

C O R R E C T proceedure to adjust / reset ( chain ) . - > set Chain ! , Nip top through bolt . Nip BOTH Adusters up to restrain through bolt aftward .
Swing er through & check chain tensions even . Not All stretched in places & uneven . - tight / loose alt. rotateing .

Lean Severly on top bolt & lower bolt tightening . Wind up both tensioners so the swine cant go aft . Nail down the locknuts . 8)



( note innane comments on single row primary from girls wot cant seal a primary , maintain a oil level , or adjust a primary chain or clutch :shock: . NOTE the single row primary Absorbs Less Power . So we get MORE :wink: )

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... CC4QrQMwAg

"The dual adjuster is the later type used on the duplex models, but it is the setup you want to use on any preunit swingarm build because the single adjuster setup just doesn't cut it."

I installed a clutch pushrod seal a few years ago. Prior to that I was having to clean the clutch plates every year as they would start slipping. After installing the problem has gone away completely. On your '71 installation is very easy provided you have a clutch spring tool and a torque wrench. An air impact wrench is also nice for removing the nut on the main shaft, just don't use it to re-install the nut, use the torque wrench.

I've never had clutch plate contamination from gear oil and I don't run a seal. +1