Advice on Removing Paint from Barrels and Fins

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thunderbolt

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I need to clean up the barrels of my 850 MK2 including between the fins, etc, in preparation for painting in gloss black. It is proving a difficult task using paint stripper and wiping the residue from between the fins. VERY slow process and am not convinced I will get it all out even if I keep repeating the process.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to accomplish this task. If I take it to be blasted - which form of media should be used. I am a bit dubious about sand blasting. Don't want to get that stuff in the cam tunnels or other places where it may be able to work its way into the engine eventually.

Also if blasting is the best solution - how best to prepare the barrels to protect the bores and the cam tunnels?

Thanks
Don
 
thunderbolt said:
I need to clean up the barrels of my 850 MK2 including between the fins, etc, in preparation for painting in gloss black. It is proving a difficult task using paint stripper and wiping the residue from between the fins. VERY slow process and am not convinced I will get it all out even if I keep repeating the process.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to accomplish this task. If I take it to be blasted - which form of media should be used. I am a bit dubious about sand blasting. Don't want to get that stuff in the cam tunnels or other places where it may be able to work its way into the engine eventually.

Also if blasting is the best solution - how best to prepare the barrels to protect the bores and the cam tunnels?

Thanks
Don
Click to expand...

It's hard stuff. I made wooden block off panels top & bottom, sealed with RTV. Sandblasted with black beauty media... Took hours to do.

Next time, a light clean up & overpaint. :idea:
 
Try brake fluid, usually it takes over paint quickly. But never tried yet on Norton barrels.
 
I took my barrels down to an engine reconditioning place and had them hot tanked. All they needed was a bit of a wire brushing when I got them back.
 
Mask off with something substantial then grit blast. make sure the dude with the blaster is aware of where you don't want blasting or do it yourself. then spray with PJ1 gloss which has recently come back on the market. Then clean up, maybe in the dishwasher when the wife is out, dry quickly and inhibit the bare metal surfaces until ready to fit
 
In the aviation industry there is a product that used to be called speed tape, thick aluminium and pressure sensitive. the harder you press it on the better it sticks. but it will give way to random blasting.
 
The local automotive machine shops around here put cast iron parts in an oven and cook off the scale/paint/grease (the fumes go through a scrubber then filters), then a short bead blasting does the rest. Hot tanking is no longer feasible due to hasmat rules that went into place about 2 decades ago. The shop I use won't run the oven without a full load, but charges me about $40, this includes the glass bead blasting.
 
Thanks Guys for the replies, some helpful comments there.

I took some of the layer off the top fin with a small grinder (Dremel) today and it appears to be quite thick. I am wondering if it is powder coat that has been applied previously.

I purchased a cheap sand blaster today but the shop was out of blasting media. I am thinking I will give it a go and hope my compressor is up to the job (volume wise). If the blaster does remove the coating (paint or powder coat) then all well and good. Otherwise I will try and soften the coating with CRC gasket stripper and then try blasting again.

Thanks again for advice offered.

Don
 
I've always believed when cleaning cylinders to paint, if the paint is hard to remove, it would surely make a good base for the new paint...I usually clean all rust and bare metal(easiest to get to) with sandpaper and then fold some paper flat to rough up and clean between the fins...That's just me....
 
The trichloroethylene degreaser in your local plating shop will remove paint. However the 1.1.1 trichloroethane degreaser will not.
 
A year ago last May, I took my cylinder and head to my local vapor blaster shop for cleaning, with the caution to not use any other blasting media other than the vapor blaster, and I'm confident that he complied with that request. I was surprised and impressed with how clean the cylinder came back. I didn't think vapor blasting was aggressive enough to remove the cylinders paint, but it did, and nicely too. Either he turned up the blaster pressure, or that old black cylinder paint wasn't sticking very good any more, my memory is too crappy to remember what he said.
 

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Thanks for the replies fellas.

See picture below of my barrels.


Advice on Removing Paint from Barrels and Fins

I plan to remove the rust between the fins with my dremel and long shaft wire brush in collet. I've tried it and it just fits between the fins. After that I will clean up the outside edges of the fins with a file to remove powder coat from them for an even finish. Then I reckon because this stuff is so hard to remove then it will make a good base for the two pack paint as long as I have removed all scale and flakey paint.


Advice on Removing Paint from Barrels and Fins

Thanks
 
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