961 Idle air valve

Yeah, no worries on the Specialist Components ecu... euro 4 I need up and running again though. Just not had time to look into it further.
 
Back onto the IAC valve situation, I notice that there is difference between some of the throttle bodies. On some like mine, the throttle body has a pair of cast mounting lugs underneath for the IAC mounting bracket to fix to, whereas some others don't have these lugs. How/where is the IAC valve mounted on bikes with this type? Also, this type of body has a pair of small bore connection stubs adjacent to the IAC connection on the cross pipe. Does anyone know what these are used for? My 2014 Sport does not have them & I assume they're something to do with breather lines etc? I'm wondering if these could be utilised to provide a small amount of additional air for cold starts via a simple valve if going down the route of blocking the cross pipe & removing the IAC. As these stubs are on either side, they could be kept totally independent of each other once the cross pipe is blocked...
 
I suppose it could be used that way. I did buy one of the throttle bodies being sold from the UK on ebay and it does not have the IAM mounting ears. The picture in the ad did not show this so I was unaware. I have to guess that these were very early types and were then replaced with the type we have now. This throttle body would work very well if you removed the IAM/IAC and ran that way. Now that I am stuck with it , I may try this and who knows I may be happy and keep it that way. The advantage is that I can turn off the IAM control with SXTune on my Delta400. I would then remove all the IAM/bracket/Hoses and run the plug that iwlson demonstrated . The warm up should be no big deal with a throttle stop on the grip . Of course all the small inlet tubes need to be blocked etc. And another point to the Delta 400 , you can turn off the auto throttle zero . This may be possible on an unlocked Typhoon I don't know.
 
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Tony, like you I bought one of the throttle bodies off ebay, hence the question which was more out of curiosity than anything else. The absence of lugs for the IAC bracket is not a problem for me as this was bought to possibly go down the IAC removal route anyway & just use the throttle stop instead. Also, my bike hasn't got the heat insulator, which I now have so that's an added bonus.

I'm not sure that I'm too bothered about the auto zero on the TPS as I believe that only sets a reference position for the ECU in relation to the amount of fuel required at a given point on the throttle. If it resets this each time the bike is started I can't see a problem with that. My bike runs really well at all engine speeds apart from a poor/erratic idle, which is all I'm trying to sort out (hopefully.!) :oops:
 
Deano, I thought you'd sorted your idle by fitting hose clips?
 
Deano, I thought you'd sorted your idle by fitting hose clips?
So did I.! After racking up quite a few rides on it since, it’s definitely better but it still gets a bit snatchy & stalls occasionally on idle. Not as bad as before, but still not quite right.
 
I've seen various posts referring to blocking the passage in the throttle body that links the two inlets. As a non-engineer person and with no access to machining tools, is this something I could do myself and if so what is the recommended way of blocking it?
 
A strange thing happened when I blocked mine off, it stopped any oil going into my overflow bottle and zero oil in the airbox too even after hundreds of miles. :confused::confused: ?. I still have to balance the twistgrip until it warms up to give it a tickover which doesnt take long, but if you have ever owned a 'Goldie' with a inch and a half GP carb with a sodding great bellmouth and no filter and NO tickover at all it's no great hardship , it's a genuine Britsh trait. When it's warm you can adjust to get a perfect tickover every time.:D
 
A strange thing happened when I blocked mine off, it stopped any oil going into my overflow bottle and zero oil in the airbox too even after hundreds of miles. :confused::confused: ?. I still have to balance the twistgrip until it warms up to give it a tickover which doesnt take long, but if you have ever owned a 'Goldie' with a inch and a half GP carb with a sodding great bellmouth and no filter and NO tickover at all it's no great hardship , it's a genuine Britsh trait. When it's warm you can adjust to get a perfect tickover every time.:D
How did you block yours peebee?
 
I would say no. But just a aluminum dowel cut down on a lathe to the dimensions that iwilson posted . Should be relatively straight forward for a machine shop to do ?

Look at this iwilson link :


Thanks Tony. I see that he had a machine shop make the bung out of PU30 as a temporary solution, and it was fitted from the top of the throttle body where the IAC hose was connected.

https://www.accessnorton.com/attachments/full-jpg.72307/

Icrken had the throttle body tapped and used a bolt to compress a rubber plug in the hole.

https://www.accessnorton.com/attachments/rubber-plug-1200-jpg.9170/

There are a number of variations of throttle body in respect of hose connection points alongside the connection point for the IAC hose. Icrken's has an extra connection on the left, Iwilson's doesn't appear to have any extra connections whereas mine has two extra. I guess they had something in mind for these although I'm not aware of them being used.

961 Idle air valve
 
Thanks Tony. I see that he had a machine shop make the bung out of PU30 as a temporary solution, and it was fitted from the top of the throttle body where the IAC hose was connected.

https://www.accessnorton.com/attachments/full-jpg.72307/

Icrken had the throttle body tapped and used a bolt to compress a rubber plug in the hole.

https://www.accessnorton.com/attachments/rubber-plug-1200-jpg.9170/

There are a number of variations of throttle body in respect of hose connection points alongside the connection point for the IAC hose. Icrken's has an extra connection on the left, Iwilson's doesn't appear to have any extra connections whereas mine has two extra. I guess they had something in mind for these although I'm not aware of them being used.

View attachment 82328
As you seem to have the body off, how about just filling the whole passage with RTV silicone ? (It's also reversible).
 
As you seem to have the body off, how about just filling the whole passage with RTV silicone ? (It's also reversible).

Thanks, I was wondering about something like that. Just looking for advice based on what worked for others as I didn't want to risk anything that might end up inside the engine. I'm toying with buying one of the throttle bodies on eBay which could then be tapped/drilled etc.

Just out of interest, where does the MAP sensor connect to in order to get the pressure reading? I don't have a MAP sensor but I'm wondering if that's what the extra hose point(s) were intended for.
 
Thanks, I was wondering about something like that. Just looking for advice based on what worked for others as I didn't want to risk anything that might end up inside the engine. I'm toying with buying one of the throttle bodies on eBay which could then be tapped/drilled etc.

Just out of interest, where does the MAP sensor connect to in order to get the pressure reading? I don't have a MAP sensor but I'm wondering if that's what the extra hose point(s) were intended for.
I think if you use good quality silicone it should be ok. It's upstream of the injector nozzles and if you fill the cross passage and the air feed hole, it will be a sort of upside down T so shouldn't go anywhere. I'm afraid I'll have to defer on the MAP question as my bike doesn't have one either.
 
I’m going to look at this as well. I run a multi throttle body set up on a car with no iac, which works great...but ldles best when warm. Jenvey made loads of throttle bodies, some as an OEM, some aftermarket, so the extra ports could be used by anthing that needs manifold pressure, so could be for a map sensor, but I’ve also seen all of these ports linked together on a v8 to give a vacuum source. You could even use it for an advance on a distributor (remember them?) ..so these ports may not have anything to do with what Norton had in mind, more like what was there already from Jenvey.
 
Thanks, I was wondering about something like that. Just looking for advice based on what worked for others as I didn't want to risk anything that might end up inside the engine. I'm toying with buying one of the throttle bodies on eBay which could then be tapped/drilled etc.

Just out of interest, where does the MAP sensor connect to in order to get the pressure reading? I don't have a MAP sensor but I'm wondering if that's what the extra hose point(s) were intended for.
Norton Euro4 manual show the MAP sensor tube connecting to another "new" spigot in the left throttle body bore close to the injector .
 
How did you block yours peebee?
I got a piece of brass bar, made it the right diameter to fit into the aluminium casting and shaped the end to comletely block the passageway and left it long enough to come halfway up the tin tube. Then very carefully poured some araldite into the tin tube to hold the bar in place. The brass was such a good fit that no araldite got past into the passageway and it has never moved since.
 
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