850 inner/outer gearbox leak question

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Hello all I am in the process of installing new gaskets for the gearbox so far I have removed outer cover now need to remove inner..... I have a manual have read it but I am looking for inside tips or tricks... When I remove it what should I look out for... Is there re install tricks.. Also I am concerned about breather issues and am not wanting to repeat this process over and over... I have a line by the battery from the oil tank that is blanked with a bolt.. Is this normal its the one that jets straight out towards the battery compartment by rear fender where I mounter the sparx reg rect... I had a complete seal loss the entire contents of gear box leaked out... :? I could get photos of the line if necesary.... Thanks
 
For a worthwhile read---go to "OLD BRITS" website and review the technical article on transmissions.

Decide on removing the entire trans case or not.--to replace the output seal on the main shaft--you have to remove the primary case. Almost there so a few more bits and your ready to remove the case. Much easier to work on the trans on the bench--my opinion anyway.
Many good sources of rebuilding trans and how to's- should do's, don't forget to's and must do's in archived subjects on this forum

Depending upon miles--and unknown past dictates to me what to replace when doing rebuild. May not be the most least expensive route but then what price peace of mind.
 
Wow Old brits is an awesome resource... Thanks. Looks like I already have the mk III breather mod...
 
jeremy0201 said:
Looks like I already have the mk III breather mod...

It seems the "MkIII" breather mod was actually fitted to the MkII models first....but nobody noticed!
 
jeremy0201 said:
When I remove it what should I look out for... I have a line by the battery from the oil tank that is blanked with a bolt.. Is this normal?


Look out for Pandora when opening her box as she can get a firm grip on your wallet. The trans is a simple component but like I said it can be a Pandora's box.
As for the oil line with the bolt in it, that is more than likely the chain oiler being blocked off.
Post a pic if you can.
 
Any gear box breather discussion is a WAY over sold mod or of a real concern, even to the point of being ridiculous. Sorry to say Old brits is not always the cats meow on all tech issues. I built a pressure test rig using a super low pressure guage and did a series of pressure tests of the AMC gearbox. This test was demonstrated at one of the national rally tech sessions. While the test included the demonstration of my clutch rod seals ability to restrain oil leakage, I was actually trying to debunk this old wives tail about gearbox breathing/venting deficiency and the need for further breathing mods.
The results were as I expected, and the gearbox is absolutely NOT able to hold pressure.
The main leakage path is the path in the main shaft that my CCRS fixes.
A close 2nd leakage path would be the normal early vent in the access cover or the MKIII style vent.
A minor but variable third leakage path is the between the main shaft and sleeve gear bush.
The fourth path is the clutch cable entrance. This can NOT hold pressure, even if you RTV the cable entrance, the leakage also goes up the cable itself up to the handle bar.

Try as I might to actively pressurize the gearbox after totally sealing leakage paths one and two, there was no ability to view any residual pressure once the ball valve was shut to stop the regulated compressed air. All remaining air vented through the cable or sleeve gear. The very high resolution...low pressure guage went to zero quite quickly.........

The results of the test show that any theoretical air expansion causing a pressurization of the gearbox due to heat from operation is IMO totally bogus and without any merit what so ever.
 
AMC gear boxes work better w/o any gaskets - that then require many to fiddle with layshaft shims to take up slack. Lay shaft bearing famous for breaking up so that's the main priority to open up tranny before it goes bad on the fly. The KS cover seal groove is too deep to crush 0-ring well, so back up bottom of groove with a foil strip and fill with RTV and assemble with the shaft greased, then sit up over night before moving. The cothes pin pawl spring goes in with the crook to the bottom and both legs parallel at the pawl area spread just enough to clear pawl swing. This spring tends to rust and stiffen and fracture, not a bad Idea to have a spare on hand, like so many other items. Now is good time to do the simple mods to hold the kicker on better longer. OH yeah its also a good time to eye ball the 1st gear thin bush, as 1st to go and has some danger if it does. It can be replaced w/o spilling all the gear guts out.
 
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