850 Daily Rider Project
- Thread starter jaguar
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trident sam
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jaguar said:
I use 1963-1969 Austin Mini Cooper EBC Greenstuff front brake pads Pt .number DP 2128
I get them off ebay,and as they are for a car are much cheaper than buying from a bike dealer, and you get 4 obviously.
They work very well, without chewing up your discs.
sam
trident sam
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The ones in your link have a different part number to the ones I have (DP 2128).
The size of the ones in you link are 70-58-14 mm
The size you need are 59-51-10 mm , I just measured a set to verify
sam
The size of the ones in you link are 70-58-14 mm
The size you need are 59-51-10 mm , I just measured a set to verify
sam
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jaguar said:
Better brakes mean better safety, unless you endo from doing a too-big stoppie. Doubtful, however.
You may want to look at this thread where a 12" rotor was used - ugrade-brake-lockheed-plus-ninja-t22556.html
jaydee75 said:Ok, it is finished. It is actually better than I expected. The road test was a joy. With the increased diameter frictional radius it should be 14% stronger due to mechanical advantage alone. The slick hard chrome oem surface has a terrible coefficient of friction and I knew it would improve. The A/N hoses replacing the oem rubber hoses gives a solid feel. The original rotor weighed 5 1/2 pounds, new one a little over 1 pound.
All in all, I am tickled and probably will never add the Brembo caliper I had originally planned.
I'll be at the INOA rally in a couple of weeks if anyone wants to see it.
Here's a few pics:
I used a black Kevlar upper line and a coated ss line for the lower line. They meet at a bulkhead on the lower triple tree.
Line routing plus you can see my oil gauge:
Front view:
Jaydee
And read commnoz's reply below it...
Such hate for the Dunstall stuff!
Back to the EBC pad thing.
I think you are correct about the measurements. I will measure the pads that are in the AP caliper I have.
Would very much like to get the correct "green stuff" pads as I think this will work well in my application.
Back to the EBC pad thing.
I think you are correct about the measurements. I will measure the pads that are in the AP caliper I have.
Would very much like to get the correct "green stuff" pads as I think this will work well in my application.
Got the new carbs ready for install by putting the cable pulls in.
Then I found this.
I assume I have to shave a bit down on the new carbs?
Any trick to this?
Anything to know or watch out for?
Have new boots for the air box as well as a recharge kit for the filter.
Original harness was in really bad shape.
Started removing it for the new replacement.
Then I found this.
I assume I have to shave a bit down on the new carbs?
Any trick to this?
Anything to know or watch out for?
Have new boots for the air box as well as a recharge kit for the filter.
Original harness was in really bad shape.
Started removing it for the new replacement.
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"I assume I have to shave a bit down on the new carbs? Any trick to this?
Anything to know or watch out for?"
Looks like you got it exactly right. I had to grind down the unused idle adjuster bosses on my new Premiers to get them to clear on my Atlas. You don't need to knock-off much. Just nip off the corner. I used my belt grinder with a super fine grit belt, but a fine tooth file or some emery on a flat surface will work.
Anything to know or watch out for?"
Looks like you got it exactly right. I had to grind down the unused idle adjuster bosses on my new Premiers to get them to clear on my Atlas. You don't need to knock-off much. Just nip off the corner. I used my belt grinder with a super fine grit belt, but a fine tooth file or some emery on a flat surface will work.
Thinking about an electronic ignition.
I know the topic has been beaten to death, but I just HAVE to ask again......
Power Arc or Tri Spark?
What would/do you guys run and why?
I like that they both fit under the points cover with no external module.
Like the idea that the Power Arc is programmable, but don't know how it works....and cant really see me needing that on a semi stock bike.
http://www.trispark.com.au/home/products/
http://www.oldbritts.com/51_150101.html
After the conversion to USA the two are about the same price with coils.
Thanks for the help.
I know the topic has been beaten to death, but I just HAVE to ask again......
Power Arc or Tri Spark?
What would/do you guys run and why?
I like that they both fit under the points cover with no external module.
Like the idea that the Power Arc is programmable, but don't know how it works....and cant really see me needing that on a semi stock bike.
http://www.trispark.com.au/home/products/
http://www.oldbritts.com/51_150101.html
After the conversion to USA the two are about the same price with coils.
Thanks for the help.
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I may be in the minority, but the PowerArc gave me lots of startup problems.
After months of frustration, I finally sent it back to Fred (who was kind enough to give me refund) and got a TriSpark to replace it.
Made an immediate improvement in startup. Now can do it with two kicks at most when cold.
After months of frustration, I finally sent it back to Fred (who was kind enough to give me refund) and got a TriSpark to replace it.
Made an immediate improvement in startup. Now can do it with two kicks at most when cold.
Marathon Man
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I'm in the pro-power arc camp. I've logged 12,500 miles so far without failure.
Marathon Man
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jaguar said:
Well, Power Arc's (made in USA) spark is triggered by an optical sensor and I believe TriSpark (made in Australia) uses a magnetic trigger. That's about all I can contribute. :?
I am leaning TriSpark, but still reading up on things.
HATED the idea of filing/grinding on brand new carbs, but I guess it just needs to be done.
Not a lot of material needed to be removed. I used a hand file.
After that they fit perfect.
Kinda make the rest of the bike look bad now!
Picture is not the best, but I noticed that the motor does not seem "centered" in the frame.
Is this likely due to the shot isolastics, or a sign of something else?
Didn't "recharge" the filter yet, just installing things to make sure they fit.
Seems that the front fender is pinched a bit and rubbing on the 4.10x19 tire.
While I know it will open up a can of hate here.....
But I do need to do some work on the Dunstal rearsets.
They are slightly tweaked, but I still like them!
Also I do not have the rear tank mount.
Will have to dig through the boxes to see if I have it or not. If not I am sure it can not be that hard to find one used.
HATED the idea of filing/grinding on brand new carbs, but I guess it just needs to be done.
Not a lot of material needed to be removed. I used a hand file.
After that they fit perfect.
Kinda make the rest of the bike look bad now!
Picture is not the best, but I noticed that the motor does not seem "centered" in the frame.
Is this likely due to the shot isolastics, or a sign of something else?
Didn't "recharge" the filter yet, just installing things to make sure they fit.
Seems that the front fender is pinched a bit and rubbing on the 4.10x19 tire.
While I know it will open up a can of hate here.....
But I do need to do some work on the Dunstal rearsets.
They are slightly tweaked, but I still like them!
Also I do not have the rear tank mount.
Will have to dig through the boxes to see if I have it or not. If not I am sure it can not be that hard to find one used.
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