750S model headlight size?

I read on a couple technical and historic Norton sites that the 750S Commando had a slightly smaller headlamp than the other Commando models. I know they have the distinctive halo ring but as far as I can tell, mine has the usual 7" size. Is this correct? Or is the headlight smaller?

Year by year the headlight is standard across the models, certainly in the early years. The "halo" ring was an add on piece of bling. Authoritative bodies who say different are not authoritative.
The headlight is a standard Lucas part, and was possibly common across all makes that used it (Norton, BSA, Triumph etc), with only the attached wiring making it different, the shell, rim, reflector etc being identical. From memory Lucas had two "standard" headlights 5" and 7". The small one was sometimes fitted to enduro bikes and stuff like that. Again from memory the only time a production Commando got anything other than a 7" headlight was for the JPN Replica, which had two 5" headlamps in the fairing.
cheers
wakeup

The Hi-Rider and the Short lived SS both had smaller headlights mounted on the standard headlight ears.

Yep, sorry as I was doing something else I remembered the 'orrible Hi Rider, which may have had a smaller headlight, it would have been the 5" though surely. As far as I can remember the SS always had a 7" headlight.
Bob Triggs philosophy was to get as many different models with minimal changes, Fastback, Roadster, SS, etc etc oh and 'orrible Hi Rider
cheers
wakeup

The SS was the model with one high pipe up either side and the same fuel tank as the Hi-rider, it was only available for less than a year, I have a catalogue photo of both this model and the hi-rider clearly showing a smaller headlamp, it does indeed look like a 5" model.

Well there you go, thanks for that
cheers
wakeup

ps, but the Hi Rider was still horrible

Wakeup, The Hi-rider was so horrible that many owners converted them to another model, they have thus become in some circles somewhat rare and sought after - not by me I might add. The SS is quite a pretty bike in my opinion but the small capacity tank would make it challenging to ride for any distance.

Cheers, Dave McKirdy

It's 7" same as all the rest. I got a replacement from RGM, but they didn't have the 3 hole one, so I got a 2 holer and added my 3rd hole. The RGM one was slightly narrower at the mounting points, so I had to get some new 5/16" UNF bolts for there anyhow, the originals were 5/16 CEI. I've heard the replacement halos are also somewhat smaller in size than the originals.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

It's 7" same as all the rest. I got a replacement from RGM, but they didn't have the 3 hole one, so I got a 2 holer and added my 3rd hole. The RGM one was slightly narrower at the mounting points, so I had to get some new 5/16" UNF bolts for there anyhow, the originals were 5/16 CEI. I've heard the replacement halos are also somewhat smaller in size than the originals.

Dave
69S

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Funny Old World - the halo ring I got new was bigger than the original! :roll:

I do find it interesting just how many things are unique to the 750s model. I think the oil tank and location is unique though I see other models that look the same to me. I am going to go with the high pipes and shields that are the tell tale difference for the 750s. I had to buy all new exhaust system and mount. I do wish the system was better planned out. I had CNW put new threaded inserts in my heads as they were stripped. The dog legged mount is flimsy and I fear it will crack over time. If they would have mounted them to the Engine/tranny cradle, I think everything would hold together better. When I get farther into by restoration, I am going to start a build thread.

The only difference between the S-type and the Roadster from the same time period is the pipes, later bikes show many differences from these models including frame/stands, triple clamps, oil tank, side panels, instrument faces, seat size, just to name a few.

The headlight shell on this model is 7" and has a large hole for an ammeter, a hole for a hi-beam warning light and a hole (with a flat) for the headlamp switch.

The dog leg bracket will most likely crack at some point. I got a new SS one from RGM that was not as beefy as the original. I had both of them welded up more, but of course the original chrome one is now burnt. The shields will last maybe 5K miles. You have to make sure everything is not loose or it will rattle off. It helps to stress relieve the exhaust system during assembly. I think I started from the front and worked to the rear.

I saved this from someone a long time ago, but haven't tried it. I did make a thicker brace between the silencers from SS.

"I had a problem with my exhaust mount rubbers shearing after low mileage after I mounted a set of "S" pipes on my '70 Roadster. The original design of the rear mount looks too weak to me with just two rubber mounts holding both pipes. I worked up a new mounting system as follows: I used two stud-bolts (I used 2 Norton P/N 06-4688 studs (5/16x24) I had lying around) threaded one each into the mounting bosses on the two mufflers, then installed the flat bracket that holds the two mufflers together, then secured these brackets to the mufflers with backing nuts making a rigid assembly of the two mufflers. I then made a "sandwich" of rubber isolators over the two studs using a combination of Norton tank mounting rubber washers (06-0648) and drilled-out center rubbers from the original rubber mountings. Then fit the ends of the studs through the chrome "L" bracket with more rubber washers on the far side (need smaller OD washers here to fit inside the "U" shape - had to go search the hardware store to find some), then secured with flat washers and self-locking nuts.

This has worked well so far; the two stud bolts provide more strength for vertical shear forces from the weight of the mufflers. I have been careful not to tighten the lock-nuts too tight and not over- compress the rubber "sandwich" as the exhaust system needs some flexibility to vibrate with the engine independently of the frame.

This needs to be tight to keep the support, just not too tight. Hope this helps."

Dave

Dave,
Where exactly do you think the bracket will crack? I am going to re-enforce mine with metal and JB Weld on the underside. I also may purchase a standard Commando exhaust set-up and use it mostly. I will keep the S-pipes for shows, pictures and incase I ever sell it. I don't think I will sell it though. I am really getting attached to the ol girl. Also, the more I read about and see pictures of, the more I see how fortunate I am to have such a find in amazing condition as I have. I am having a blast restoring this Norton. Your threads have been a major inspiration for me...thanks for taking the time to document all you do!

Here's my original after welding.





Here's the original next to the RGM one.



Here's the S type exhaust layout if you don't have it.



I thought I had a picture of the crack, but maybe not. Mine cracked up where the U bracket goes into the 2 tabs to mount under the top shock bolts. Pretty much where you see the weld.

Dave

Here they are.