"72 ignition switch mount

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motorson

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I am not going to use the factory air cleaner so I would like to see some creative ideas of how to mount the ignition switch. I'm sure I could come up with a nice mount and I am also sure that many people have solved this problem before. So, if you have a good way of mounting the switch I would like to hear about it.
 
motorson said:
I am not going to use the factory air cleaner so I would like to see some creative ideas of how to mount the ignition switch. I'm sure I could come up with a nice mount and I am also sure that many people have solved this problem before. So, if you have a good way of mounting the switch I would like to hear about it.

combat-proddy-build-t4186-150.html#p64285

"72 ignition switch mount

In the battery box there is a small hole for the strap and an indent in the airbox. I thought one bolt wouldn't be enough but when I snugged it up the switch can't move. I always prefer putting less holes in the stock parts. It'll get painted black when I remember to.

"72 ignition switch mount

"72 ignition switch mount

Key sits up nice and tight. I won't have two keys on it, maybe a fob at the most.
 
Are you changing to other than Amal carbs? Wondering why you don't use the factory air cleaner. K&N makes a great original size filter for the stock setup and provides maximum filter surface area compared to all other solutions.
 
Thanks Swooshdave and Illf8ed. I have the K&N aftermarket filter that just goes straight on the carbs. I never have owned the stock one with the little rubber boots. I guess I could buy one on ebay and go with the larger K&N filter. But for now I plan to go with the filter I have and build a bracket for the ignition switch.
 
Nice pics and solution Dave. I came here tonight looking for a way to mount the key since switching out my Amals for a Mikuni. I may use the two threaded holes below (previously used for the airbox) for a bracket to give it a two place hold. I also wanted to avoid drilling into stock parts.

Thanks again.
 
Motorson
As long as you can keep the key inboard of the frame Murphy can't strike with swooshdaves solution.
E.g. While walking from my tent during the Norton Rally back in that very hot July day of 2011, I witnessed the unfortunate incident of a very nicely prepared and lowered 1970 maybe 71 750 which just after declutching and moving forward about 10 yards clipped a tree root (that he did not see) and caused an abrupt and sudden dead stop to him and his bike. :shock: The bike went over along with the driver and damaged the foot peg support and broke off the key, which was mounted on the side cover. I can't remember the guys name, only that I felt sorry of the situation, but fortunately he had only bruises and the same to his pride and joy. :oops: I like the 1972 -74 set-up where the key is facing forward and better still the 75 which is right out of the way up top at the clocks. My 2 cents.
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