'72 Commando Restoration

Howdy All,

I've lurked around this forum for quite some time, but I'm finally able to begin a long-awaited restoration.

My dad bought this bike as a leftover in '73 in NJ. He rode it for about 10 years until family came along - it still has the 1983 inspection sticker on it. There it sat until about 2 years ago when we rolled it out of the shed and began some simple work. We got it running roughly, but that was about it. I've now been gifted (I use that term as a positive) the bike and plan on a full restoration with some modern upgrades for safety and convenience. I know this forum is an absolute wealth of knowledge and look forward to asking many questions along the way. I have no real timeline and will go at the speed that my bank account allows. I'll post pictures with any significant milestones. This is how she sits presently. According to my father, the only things he remembered changing were the handlebars and one exhaust pipe.

I've been told it is a Combat, but I should be able to confirm that once into the rebuild process.

First order of business will be a complete tear down to get parts cleaned and inspected.

Howdy, Kid.

I'd highly recommend NOT stripping it down!

Instead, flush out the old oil from the tank, crankcase sump and primary, remove the primary cover and wide the cavity & cover clean, then replace all the covers & plugs, and re-fill the oil tank. $25 for lubricants.

Next, flush the gas tank out and drain the carbs.

Next, pull the carb bowls off and see what shape they're in. If cruddy or "varnished", pull the carbs and overhaul them with new Amal gaskets, o-rings, stay-up floats & viton tipped float needles. $50 for carb bits.

Next, flush the front brake system out and re-fill with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. $5

Run through the valve lash adjustment; at least give them a cursory check to see that they all cycle though and give the slightest wiggle when each valve is fully closed and it's partner is being opened by the cam.

If you haven't already installed a new battery, install a modern AGM one. $60

The bike should then start and run just fine to see what it rides like. Check out all the systems just plodding around your neighborhood.

You'll likely have to adjust the clutch & throttle cables, chin, etc. Possibly also have to replace a few bulbs. $5

You'll definitely need to install fresh tires, tubes & rim strips to make it roadworthy. $250

All of the above should cost you around $400, so plan accordingly.

Get with it!

Almost forgot: pair of "Combat 750 Commando" sidecover decals. $20

There, done.

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the info. I'm concerned about a few things, which are spurring the tear down idea.

- Engine is leaking like a sieve right now. We put fresh oil in it a few years ago, and it has leaked profusely since. I'd really like to have a leak free Norton (which i know may be a pipe dream) and get to the bottom of what's causing it. I have not spent enough time with her yet to determine what needs to be addressed.

- The frame is rusted in several spots and I'd like to repaint it to mitigate any further damage caused by the rust.

- I'm not a fan of the current bars, so I want to replace those and the corresponding cables

- I'd also like to add electric ignition, a hot-button topic on this forum

- Tank is fiberglass, which I'd like to replace with a steel tank. I've tried Caswell sealant in the past but I'd prefer to just go with a metal tank to avoid that whole process

- The z plate and chain guard have some corrosion from a leaked battery. That will need some attention

- the isolastics have not been touched in ~35 years. If they look anything like the rubber bits on other areas, they will need work

- Shocks are shot

- wiring harness is falling apart, probably from all those years in the shed

Overall, I just want to clean her up and make her a better machine using modern knowledge and technology while still maintaining as much original charm as possible.

I think you are in the winston aria if so I am not far from you in shady valley tn . if you want some help on it feel free to call me @ 407 484 3388 or just call me because. you are going about it right with a complete tear down. as to an oil tight bike it is not a pipe dream BUT there are are some things particular to the 72-73 and more so the combat to make it a great and reliable street ride.


windy

grandpaul said:

Almost forgot: pair of "Combat 750 Commando" sidecover decals. $20

There, done.

Click to expand...

Please anything but these fake "combat" decals.

bill said:

I think you are in the winston aria if so I am not far from you in shady valley tn . if you want some help on it feel free to call me @ 407 484 3388 or just call me because. you are going about it right with a complete tear down. as to an oil tight bike it is not a pipe dream BUT there are are some things particular to the 72-73 and more so the combat to make it a great and reliable street ride.


windy

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Thanks Windy, I am indeed in the WS area. I appreciate the offer for assistance. If I feel I am in need I will certainly let you know!

batrider said:

grandpaul said:

Almost forgot: pair of "Combat 750 Commando" sidecover decals. $20

There, done.

Click to expand...

Please anything but these fake "combat" decals.

Click to expand...

Did the original side panel decals not say Combat? I'd like to keep it looking like it did back in the day.

Was able to get started this weekend, and despite some VERY stuck nuts/bolts, I was able to some major components off. I'm excited to continue and start getting parts cleaned up and inspected. Work was slow going due to the process of inspecting the parts, photographing them as they were installed, and bagging/boxing each component for reference.

The original decals were the same as a "normal" 750. It said 750 Commando. I started seeing the Combat decals from the one eBay guy much much later - like maybe 2005.

So it's been a while since I've posted. Sometimes life just gets in the way of fun.

Anyways, I finally have the bike down to the frame and have decided on powder coating. My first question (of many to come) is about the finish. Gloss or semi-gloss? From what the original paint looks like, I believe it is a gloss. Can anyone verify whether the powder coat gloss looks similar to the original paint?

I've always used gloss black powdercoating. Rust-O-Leum gloss black is the perfect touch-up when the time comes (not very often at all)

grandpaul said:

I've always used gloss black powdercoating. Rust-O-Leum gloss black is the perfect touch-up when the time comes (not very often at all)

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Thanks! I'm planning on having the shop follow Old Britts process as close as possible and I'll keep the Rust-o-leum in mind!

As I'm working through the various parts that need to powder coated, vapor blasted, polished, painted, or re-chromed, I got to thinking: what do you do with all of the old hardware that is showing its age? It seems silly to use the same old bolts on newly shiny bits. Is there a cheap way to refresh hardware? Should I buy new hardware? What say you Norton restorers?

If you do the ENTIRE BATCH of hardware in new cadmium, it's worth it (about $165)

If it's only a double-handful of bolts & nuts, it's cheaper to buy new ones.

There's also Eastwoods & Caswell plating kits...

grandpaul said:

If you do the ENTIRE BATCH of hardware in new cadmium, it's worth it (about $165)

If it's only a double-handful of bolts & nuts, it's cheaper to buy new ones.

There's also Eastwoods & Caswell plating kits...

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I'd like to do as many small components as possible. I'm not doing a concourse level, but I'd really like it look good. Sounds like having them replated would be the way to go.

Might be a silly question, but were washers also plated or were they just steel?

Most of the fasteners and hardware were cadmium plated. If you're going for original, cad is the thing. I have replaced much of the hardware on my '71 with stainless nuts, bolts and washers readily available at the local hardware store. Specialty bolts like shock absorber mount bolts, axles and nuts and engine mounting fasteners can be had from several suppliers in stainless. Engine cover screws are mostly American sizes, except the gearbox cover and those can be had for not a lot of cash. For engine assembly fasteners, stick with original rather than stainless. There are some odd sizes anyway.

Danno said:

Most of the fasteners and hardware were cadmium plated. If you're going for original, cad is the thing. I have replaced much of the hardware on my '71 with stainless nuts, bolts and washers readily available at the local hardware store. Specialty bolts like shock absorber mount bolts, axles and nuts and engine mounting fasteners can be had from several suppliers in stainless. Engine cover screws are mostly American sizes, except the gearbox cover and those can be had for not a lot of cash. For engine assembly fasteners, stick with original rather than stainless. There are some odd sizes anyway.

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Considering the prevalence of stainless steel fasteners and the fact that I don't mind the look, that sounds like a promising option. I've read on this site to be mindful of where I'm putting them due to the load stress and strain. I'll probably stick to non-critical locations for SS and use the originals where I need the strength. Thoughts?

I did the Caswell plating kit when I first went through my 850. It was OK, but you can't do Cadmium at home - too hazardous - so the kit is actually galvanizing, which looks like cad if you buff it a little.

I went the true clear Cadmium route when I restored my P11 and G15, and re-restored my 850. The finished product looks showroom fresh if you take a little time and clean off any paint reside, de-bur threads and clean up nicks on nuts and bolts. There are a lot of fasteners on a classic English bike, and the roughly $150 spent to replate every nut , bolt, washer, clamp, and bracket is well worth it.

3 of my bikes have the AMC primary case (similar to a MkIII case). These take 14 screws, at about $6 apiece!. Cylinder base nuts are similarly priced. that's the cost of plating everything, including items like hose clamps, spindles, and coil brackets.

I figure, cad everything, and use Stainless on stuff that's relatively cheap and showing.

My Commando has stainless spokes, at roughly $90 a rim (with good, original rims). I Cad plated my G15 and Ranger spokes, along with all the other fasteners, for roughly $150 each bike

Well I finally got the parts off to the powder coater with the Old Britts printed directions. According to the PC shop owner, they were some of the most detailed instructions he's ever seen. Should be ready in a couple weeks.

In the mean time, I've started laying out what to do next. Here are my next steps, in no particular order:

- Gearbox rebuild using the RGM kit. I'd like to pick up the Mick Hemmings DVD guide, but haven't started looking for that just yet.
- Engine overhaul (new bearings/bushings/gaskets)
- Oil tank cleaning (sending it out to CNW for that one)
- Both the gearbox and engine will be vapor blasted by a local shop
- Vapor blast and rebuild the carbs
- Repaint the yokes
- Acquire metal tank to replace fiberglass tank

After that stuff, it's pretty much buying smaller bits and getting everything to fit appropriately.

Hopefully I'll have the majority of this stuff done before our first kid arrives in April! I know exactly where all my bike money will go after that.