'71 Cush Drive - Hub to Sprocket not flush

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I think you are right. Will take it out this weekend, and see if it mounts flush without. Thanks! Will check on Saturday.
 
The illustration is very poor, doesn't even resemble the actual part.
Illustration Part # 32 here: http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g20.html

actual part picture here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/15981

Either way, it shd be flush at the surface, and if it can't be done, something else is not right.

That's the later 063012 push-in felt retainer. It is the one AN lists for '71 with the raised edge but it's not the type listed in the '71 parts book...........

'71 Cush Drive - Hub to Sprocket not flush


.....which is the 'staked' NM19714 felt retaining washer (below). It's the same as the retainer in elefantrider's brake drum photo which also changed to the push-in type later on.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17295
'71 Cush Drive - Hub to Sprocket not flush


At a guess I think perhaps someone could have fitted a double-row or other wider bearing on the drive-side of the hub?
 
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It looks like the 063012 retainer will solve my interference problem. You can see on my drum photo where my retainer has been wearing on the spacer- 062070.

But i will likely remove the retainer,felt and possibly the washer, and just run it that way until i order/receive the correct retainer and possibly even the correct bearings.

This is still a bit of a guessing game until i can measure or trial fit all parts.

I could not find any part numbers on my sealed wheel bearings, at least on the side i could see.
 
It looks like the 063012 retainer will solve my interference problem. You can see on my drum photo where my retainer has been wearing on the spacer- 062070.

I'm doubtful that it will, as 063012 simply replaces NM19714.

Look where the end of the bearing spacer is in relation to the bearing inner race in the first photo below, and compare it with the spacer in your photo below that, where the spacer seems no more than about half-way into the bearing which suggests to me that either the bearing isn't fully home or it's the wrong width bearing.

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/front-and-rear-hub-bearing-removal.6904/#post-85177

'71 Cush Drive - Hub to Sprocket not flush



'71 Cush Drive - Hub to Sprocket not flush
 
As usual, L. A. B. is correct. I don't have a 71 parts book, and relied upon the AN information.
If you need everything to be "correct", and/or you're not sure that's a sealed bearing, you wd prob need to pull it apart and fit a narrower bearing.
If all you need is clearance, and you are sure it's a (good) sealed bearing, I don't see anything wrong with ditching the washer, running it as is.
 
It’s unfortunate we don’t have any detailed spec drawings for assemblies or for piece parts. If any are available, i havent seen them. The factory originally assembled these machines based on this only???
 
On the other hand we are very fortunate to have experts on this forum and companies like Andover and Old Britts and Fair Spares, who keep drawings and offer almost every (maybe every) part needed for these very old machines.
Somewhere, I'd guess, even the blueprints are hiding.
 
Call British Cycles http://www.britcycle.com/, tell em your model type and buy the whole long term kit for next owner appreciated solution form them. The felt 'sealer' & metal holder is bad juju to retain or deal with so toss it and have drum bore machined if needd to accept upgrade long term double row sealed bearing, long standard no brain'r solution. Only stupid factory number parts only challenged guys like me bother to get the stupid obnoxious metal felt holder reinstalled, knowing next guy can deal with it sensibly after the aftermakret supply dried up.
 
It’s unfortunate we don’t have any detailed spec drawings for assemblies or for piece parts. If any are available, i havent seen them. The factory originally assembled these machines based on this only???

If only you would knock the drive-side bearing out then I'm sure the problem could be identified reasonably quickly without the need for blueprints, micrometers etc. :rolleyes:
 
Call vendors outside forum experts or go nutzo - after following LAB's wise base line advice that only gets obsolete parts removed but no long term straight forward lasting solution parts mentioned. Norton Commando's were never intended to last long before rotary engine productions set up, too expensive for private owners. hobot risking -black sheep banning pointing out options not forum approved so ya call delaying riding joys.
 
Thanks fellas. I found some time to work on the bike again. As LAB recommended, I drove out the bearings and found a double row in the drive side of the hub, and a standard wheel bearing in the speedo side. The double row seems far too wide to pull the wheel against the hub, even without the other hardware. I tried! The standard wheel bearing did not survive the experience, the plastic seal is deformed.

And I may have I found the location of the other wheel bearing. My drum stub axle has lot of play in it. How tight should the stub axle be in the drum?
 
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And I may have I found the location of the other wheel bearing. My drum stub axle has lot of play in it. How tight should the stub axle be in the drum?

Difficult to tell over the Internet but "a lot of play" suggests the drum bearing is probably in need of replacement.
 
Yeah you might already have all the parts you need. Pull the brake drum bearing out and see if it's the shorter one. If so, swap them out and Robert's yer uncle!
 
Drum to stub axle was assembled correctly with the correct thick bearing. A little lateral play on the stub shaft is normal, the play disappears when tightened. It has been a while since I've had one of these apart.
 
That's the later 063012 push-in felt retainer. It is the one AN lists for '71 with the raised edge but it's not the type listed in the '71 parts book...........

'71 Cush Drive - Hub to Sprocket not flush


.....which is the 'staked' NM19714 felt retaining washer (below). It's the same as the retainer in elefantrider's brake drum photo which also changed to the push-in type later on.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17295
'71 Cush Drive - Hub to Sprocket not flush

The top "raised" version looks like it would be easier to remove and replace which is likely the reason why it superceded the parts list-correct staked version. It's probably easier on the hub also, as no need to "stake" to hold in place.
 
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Counting all the parts, I found that spacer 06.7629 is missing. Checked my other bike, it is missing on that one also.
I suppose it easily falls out and gets lost during tire changes over the bikes 47 years. Seems necessary to push the wheel tight against the drum and avoid wear on the speedo gearbox.

Yes, you need that. I have a couple. Shd I send you one?
 
Some double row bearings width require relieving depth in drum bore and leaving out the crappy sealing items, so maybe prior owner did not know this or mentioned here. I cut cushions out of cycle side walls yet even they get mashed to mush too soon by not nearly as soon as anything i've ordered from vendors. I leave my pads a tad 1/16" proud of holes to partly mash on axle nip up. Side wall has tappering thick ness so pick/choose thicker tire on paddle thrust side and thinner on brake force side. I put a dab of glue on them with paddles inserted till set up to stay put on horizontal assembly.
 
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